All metal fab and welding and no fishn makes Jim a dull boy.
DAH - N=natural, S=synthetic? Sounds good to me for rubbers.

I was able to partially decode the rubber spec RS-806 AJK.
They've change the prefixes so I guess the first two but they are the type codes. The type R is probably natural rubber, N or S(alternate) was specified next, can't decode second yet, but the following numbers, 806, 8 refers to 80 Shore A, and the 06 is the tensile. The suffixes, AJK, refers to A - heat resistant, J - Abrasion resistant, and K - adhesion. Since it's molded on a steel backer, they need adhesion grade.

No parts, but he gave me the trico P/N AW-128, so there doesn't look like any out there right now, but if someone stumbles on some, pick them up for me.
I got a shout into trico also, but I'm not holding my breath.

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Howard, don't know if it will help on yours (P/N?) but I have the factory drawings for the 23 series. Includes the steel backer and the clips. I got them from Studebaker museum, PAC didn't have. Has the the rubber spec also.
I was planning on making a set for mine but I'm behind from the Caddy project.
So I'm interested on how it turns out. Commercial interest was low so far. Let me know and I'll post the pdf. I spent a few bucks to get it and more to have it digitized, but if it helps, no charge. I also got PAC approval to reproduce the logo. There's no bevel edge on these. Looks like 7/32" max. rubber thickness.

As always, thanks for the info guys.
I didn't know the wiperman had other stuff besides doing vacuum rebuilds. I'm a no vacuum convert to electric kinda guy. Waiting on response.
6x48 looks right. Tap is on it's way, no cost, those rewards points come in handy. Regardless, going to have to chase those threads after plating. There's always a chance, they'll magically show up in the garage. Who hasn't done something after age 60 and not remember doing it or seeing it because you had your bifocals on?
Push come to shove, I'll make a set, I have 316 rod, a lathe, and fine files. Silly to buy a donor car for $.49 worth of parts...but at the prices I've been seeing lately, I'm nuts* for undertaking this field rescue restomod. Talk about a soft market for postwar Packards???? Prewar go up, post war go down. I can buy a nicer one to drive while I work on this one and not affect the budget!
My cad is worth more and cost me half as much??? The 23 series "Dangerfields" - get no respect.
* - as opposed to crazy, I already admit to that.

check your complete vacuum system.
They usually run rough at idle when there's a vac leak.
If it's got the dual fuel/vac pump make sure the vac diaphragm is sound/check.
Could be in the wipers, tubing, or hoses anywhere it's routed.

Any known sources this side of Jupiter for these tiny little screw in jewels? I sent them off to the platers thinking they'd mask the nozzles, but they took them off and seem to be lost. I'm planning on using those parts and adapt to electric drive and pump, etc.
They used plastic mostly for last 3-4 decades which means more holes.

Here we go again...
There's no friction unless there's motion, so it can't be a friction fit. It's called interference.
If you don't lube the taper and dry torque it into the stratosphere, be prepared to go through this again. The taper does not transmit the torque the key does that. Final answer.

Sounds classic bass ackward. You got something on up side down that's supposed to lower the idle as it warms. Like the thermostatic spring. Retrace your steps of what you did and recheck it against the manual or diagrams. Otherwise, it's a fuel leak or float dumping fuel in uncontrolled. You'd get a black sooty tail pipe is that's going on.

in case anyone makes a stand; the critical dimensions are inside the parallel front 36" x 6" high rails is no more than 11".
The overall inside length needs to be 64", if the tranny is on.
I'm devising some sort of carrier for the drive shaft, aka propellor shaft. Haven't decided that.
After cleaning up, the strap that choked the front mount was cut, so I'd advise to use the front mount and put the loops through, one on each side, not choke under.
The manual never covers the complete removal, but says to use a strap or bolt across two head bolts, like Dave described to raise the front to access the crank. There wasn't enough thread length to put leveler under. There's about two threads showing on my head bolts. Plus unknown condition of the studs. What ever you use has to hold ~ ton live load. May consider to remove end studs, put in new longer grade 8 bolts. That would add considerable time for a one time pull.