Also what would be different on the back side? I figure a later donor would have an ultramatic and his is a manual transmission.

I would exactly mark the washer location of the center pivot bolt on the bottom side of the front cross member to aid in getting it back in the same position which will help with front end sheet metal alignment if your aligned is currently good between the fenders, hood, firewall and grill shell.

Also, if you could how many turns it took to remove the nut, that would help to get it back to the same "squish" on the rubber mount there.

There are bolts at the top and sides, and the large pivot bolt at the bottom. Obviously the firewall rods are in the way as is the hood.

If it was possible to get all the bolts out and remove the large nut underneath the front cross member, then you'd have to tilt the radiator in and up to get that bottom bolt to clear the cradle.

I'd image the fan and waterpump would be in the way.


Otherwise, you'd have to do what I did. Remove hood, remove bumper and supports. Remove Headlights, remove fenders, remove nuts from the firewall wall rods. Remove lower pivot bolt nut, remove all hoses. Take off the grille surround. Then you can pull the core support, and radiator out as an assemble. Lay it down on a blanket and remove the bolts that holds it to the core support and also that bottom pivot bolt.

Reverse the process to install. I should have many of the pictures in my blog.

Only left to is go around with a laser temp gun and try to figure out where it the hottest.

I'd temp check the pump as well as if that is getting heat soaked the volume of left fuel in the pump could expand and push fuel out the line.

Do you have the phenolic inserts on the fuel pump bolts?

It is puzzling.

That was an urban legend that was proven false many years ago.

I've reviewed the Factory Service Index and fixed any linkage issue with documents/pages that it said were missing but have been filled in over the years.

Since we now have Service Letters going back to Vol 1, I supposed the index needs to be updated to include models before 1933. If anyone wants to take that on, please let me know.

I have also added an "ALL ITEMS" option to the category listing. So, before you picked a series like "1955-1956" and were presented with the categories "Brakes, Fuel, etc.", the new "ALL ITEMS" category gives you an entire listing of all Services indexes on a single page for the selected series. This is helpful if you are not sure what category an item you are looking for may be under.

After all the updates and going back through the list, these are the items we are still missing as far as Service Letters/Counselors/Bulletins:


Service Letters

SL VOL 1, NO 6
SL VOL 1, NO 8
SL VOL 1, NO 14
SL VOL 1, NO 15
SL VOL 2, NO 2
SL VOL 2, NO 3
SL VOL 2, NO 12
SL VOL 2, NO 13
SL VOL 3, NO 9
SL VOL 3, NO 13
SL VOL 6, NO 24
SL VOL 8, INDEX
SL VOL 9, INDEX
SL VOL 12, INDEX
SL VOL 13, INDEX
SL VOL 14, INDEX
SL VOL 15, INDEX
SL VOL 16, INDEX
SL VOL 17, INDEX

Service Counselors

SC VOL 18, NO 12?
SC VOL 18, INDEX
SC VOL 19, INDEX
SC VOL 20, INDEX
SC VOL 24, NO 7, p. 27 (1950)


Service Technical Bulletins

STB 46T Dealer 1
STB 46T-8, Dealer 4
STB 46T-9, Dealer 5
STB 46T-10 Dealer 6
STB 46T-13 Dealer 9
STB 46T-14, Dealer 10
STB 46T Dealer 12
STB 46T Dealer 13
STB 46T Dealer 15
STB 47T-? (Zones only) (Convertible Handles)
STB 49T-4 (Zones only)
STB 49T-12 (Zones only)
STB 49T-14 (Zones only)
STB 49T-25 (Zones only)
STB 49T-30 (Zones only)
STB 49T-34 (Zones only)
STB 49T-37 (Zones only)
STB 49T-40 (Zones only)
STB 50T-1 (Zones only)
STB 50T-5 (Zones only)
STB 50T-11 (Zones only)
STB 50T-17 (Zones only)
STB 50T-25, Dealer 20
STB 50T-28 (Zones only)
STB 50T-29 (Zones only)
STB 50T-30 (Zones only)
STB 50T-42 (Zones only)
STB 50T-44 (Zones only)
STB 50T-48 (Zones only)
STB 51T-3 (Zones only)
STB 51T-10 (Zones only)
STB 51T-14 (Zones only)
STB 51T-25 (Zones only)
STB 51T-36 (Zones only)
STB 51T-45 (Zones only)
STB 50T-60 (Zones only)

If you can fill in any of the missing items, that would be most helpful in completing the archive of these items and also in helping build out the Service Index.

Thanks!

I came across this in SL Vol13, No13.




Trying to understand how it exactly works. Specially the middle part he is holding on to. Just not enough detail to make it out.

I would guess that it hooks over the middle of the door and the bottom or top pieces are adjusted to bend eithet the top or bottom in or out?

Are they still leaking after a retorque?

Some of the studs that go into a water-jacket area probably need thread sealer on them

A bandaid fix may be those radiator-stop leak tablets.

They are available from Steele Rubber.

I thought the early Rancheros were based on the Falcon chassis?