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Board index » All Posts (kevinpackard)




Re: 1934 Coupe For Sale
#1
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kevinpackard
That is a stunning car. I love everything about it. Good luck with the sale...whoever purchases it will be very happy.

-Kevin

Posted on: 5/14 22:09
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Re: cool as a cucumber
#2
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kevinpackard
Just to add a wrench into things, I was surprised when I read the following from the 1954 Clipper Owner's Manual:

"At normal operating temperature the pointer should center approximately between the "C" (cold) and "H" (hot) position, except on long hard drives in summer weather, when it may register nearer to the "Hot" side. This condition need not cause alarm as the pressure type system will normally prevent boiling or fluid losses at temperatures up to 248 degrees F. However, a sudden rise to the "H" mark should be investigated at once."

248? In the past, mine started moving past the center at about 195-200 on the rear of the engine. Since my radiator was serviced it has stayed centered easier, with engine temperature never exceeding 180 (measured with a temp gun).

-Kevin

Posted on: 5/14 21:20
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
#3
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kevinpackard
Looks great Stewart! Way to go for it. I'm terrified to paint. I watch a ton of Youtube videos on it, but I'm just not very comfortable with it yet.

Marty, great information. Thanks for posting that. I'll have to file that away for future reference.

-Kevin

Posted on: 5/12 23:19
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Re: Is it reall too far gone?
#4
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kevinpackard
My dad and I attempted to save a rough '38 Super block. Went through all the hot tanking, machining, etc. Got it all rebuilt and fired it up for the first time....water immediately came shooting into cylinder #2.

The corrosion was deep enough to create a few thin spots between the water jacket and critical areas (#2 cylinder wall and a couple of valve areas). The pressure blasted through those weak spots and that was it. Lots of wasted time and money.

I would recommend starting with the best block you can find. Save the salvageable parts of your current engine for use later on. A machine shop would be able to take a look and give you a better idea of whether or not they can work with it.

-Kevin

Posted on: 5/10 20:59
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Re: Should I Make the Trade?
#5
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kevinpackard
- Check for original paint (over spray on wires, hood hinges,) what spots should not be painted on car?

Someone with more knowledge can correct me on this, but I believe the areas between the ribs on the underside of the trunk lid were not painted body color. It is sound deadening material. Hood hinges should not be body color, nor the springs on them. No wires should have paint on them.

-Check trim plate in drivers side door
Is there a print out available that I could bring with me to check if the plate shows the paint and trim that the car actually is?


This page will be your best resource: 1955 Model Information. Look at the links at the bottom of the page. The first few pages of the Parts List will have all the paint and interior codes used on these cars. You can then cross reference to the paint chip scan to check the colors. All resources for that car can be found on that page.

- Check the torsion leveling system (Trunk test) In what position does the little switch need to be under the dash for the TL system to be on? will it be obvious if the system is working?


I'm not very familiar with Torsion Level, but I believe you can check it by sitting on the rear bumper and see if the car levels itself out.

- Check parking brake works. If it does not how big of a fix is that?

Depends on what the problem is. If the brakes haven't been gone through recently (with proof), I would count on going through them yourself and making sure it is all done. The parking brake is handled as part of that. It's not that hard. If I can do it, anyone can.

- Check if there is dual exhaust, I didn't notice pipes in exhaust openings in rear bumper. Anything else exhaust wise to check?

See if you can get a view of the mufflers. If they are rotted out you are looking at a new exhaust system.

-Check if has original valve covers

-Magnet test over whole car.

- Electrical. Anything special I should check when it comes to this? Like I said according to him all gauges don't work other than the gas gauge, the speedometer worked but was pretty bouncy.

Most of the electrical stuff can be figured out. Lights will need to be replaced, there are probably some bad grounds, and perhaps some wires will need attention.

- Undercarriage. I will crawl under car with head light where should I focus my attention?

Check behind the rear wheels. This is where rust is most likely to occur. There is not a lot of room under the car to see, so you may not be able to evaluate well unless the car is on stands.

Posted on: 5/10 13:01
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Re: Should I Make the Trade?
#6
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kevinpackard
I will say that if that car was resprayed, it was much better done than my car. On mine the guy didn't bother doing the door jambs, sides of the hood, overspray everywhere, etc. It was a really ham-handed job.

Keep us informed of how things progress. If you do end up picking up the 400 (or any Packard), be sure to come back here and register it and make a build thread. There is no better resource for restoring and maintaining Packards than this forum and website.

-Kevin

Posted on: 5/10 10:49
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Re: Should I Make the Trade?
#7
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kevinpackard
Quote:

MJG wrote:
Quote:

Packardfan wrote:
Quote:

paint good enough to not do over?? Is it original paint that is salvageable? Looks like fogging in paint but, pictures are poor


He said it was original everything, but cant guarantee, I think I can get at least a little color to come out. How can you tell if it is original paint, everything looked continuous in door jambs, fire wall etc...



I just went back and looked at the pictures a bit better. I think it was resprayed. Look at the firewall again... the pics are poor but, I think I see blue on wires, hinges etc. I don't believe the hinges should be body color (or underside of the hood itself for that matter). Packard definitely did not spray wires. Look at this area a bit harder and then it's time for the magnet on the rest of the car.

If it was resprayed then what was the motive to not replace a delaminated windshield (didn't happen overnight.. trust me)? Long-term ownership was not the case here. If all the above is true I only give extra credit for receipts for work.

Mike


That was the first thing that I noticed....I don't think the paint is original. Not the end of the world, but definitely look closely to see if anything is hiding underneath.

As was mentioned, the windshield replacement will cost more than you think. Rubber is $300-400 and a windshield can vary greatly. Not a fun task to do, but doable. The worst part is reattaching the stainless steel trim.

The interior overall isn't terrible, but shows its age. It obviously was not stored indoors. Things like the front seat and failing dash pad are evidence of that. Interiors are very expensive to replace. I'm not sure what exactly is in Kanter's interior kit mentioned above, but I can pretty much guarantee that it doesn't have everything needed to replace an interior. Correct materials from SMS are pricey, and if you have them sew up all the seat covers to correct patterns and specifications, you are well into the thousands. That's not including installation at an upholstery shop, which will be additional thousands. Door cards are another issue as well. If they are embossed (not sure if '55 was?) then SMS is the only place that can replace them correctly and you'll likely be waiting years, if you ever get them at all.

I do think the car is a nice start. But I definitely do not think it is worth was he is asking. I would feel comfortable paying $8K...maybe more if there were tons of receipts. But understand that this car will take time, love, and money in order to really bring it back to its former glory. Trust me, I'm right in the middle of doing the same. My car was in much worse shape than yours, but it has cost much more than I had originally thought in order to improve it. There are always unforeseen problems that come up....brakes, engine, trans, etc.

A rolling restoration is a nice way to do it, especially if you are not planning on doing anything to the extent of a frame-off restoration. The 400's are great cars, one of my favorites. I hope to pick one up someday.

-Kevin

Posted on: 5/9 20:09
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Re: Resurrecting my 56’ Patrician
#8
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kevinpackard
The tank comes painted inside and out. It is well made. Sometimes the sending unit can benefit from an additional path to ground. I would recommend that you at least attach a grounding wire to the holding ring and leave plenty of excess hanging out the rear of tank after you install it. If you need it, it's there. It's not fun dropping a tank over and over. Ask me how I know.

Kevin

Posted on: 5/9 18:44
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Re: Fun with used cars
#9
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kevinpackard
Quote:

It turns out it was more economical by far to strip the car by that method than having someone come and blast it--plus there is no sand to endlessly deal with.


100% agree. The stripping discs are great and do not damage the metal.

I'm still vacuuming up sand from when I had the interior blasted a year and a half ago. What a mess.

Posted on: 5/8 11:02
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Re: RIk
#10
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kevinpackard
I'm so glad these tanks are being reproduced. It's a fair price for a good reproduction, and it's nice to know that you will not have a rust problem in the fuel now.

-Kevin

Posted on: 5/7 22:53
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