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Board index » All Posts (kevinpackard)




Re: A Tale of Two Patricians
#1
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kevinpackard
Can't help you with the bushing, but I did want to say that the photo of the rebuilt BTV next to the old is great. That rebuilt unit is beautiful.

-Kevin

Posted on: Yesterday 17:10
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Re: John's 1953 Patrician
#2
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kevinpackard
Looks good John! Do you have examples to show of the zinc-plated parts? I've been watching a lot of YouTube videos lately on zinc plating and nickel plating. Interesting stuff for sure. I even considered the "copy chrome" plating kits you can get, but that looks way too involved.

-Kevin

Posted on: 3/3 21:40
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Re: KPack
#3
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kevinpackard
Talked with the upholstery guy I was mentioning before, and for the wrinkles by the lights, he suggested cutting an "x" relief pattern out close to the screw holes that hold the light on. I had previously cut an X pattern, but not to that extent. I did as he said, and it did help, though there are a couple of wrinkles I will not be able to get rid of. Same with a few small spots in the front. As such, I'm downgrading my self-grading to a 7.5/10.....definitely not a professional job, but I believe it is good enough to move forward. The picture makes it look better than it really is.

I've been getting all the trim installed on the inside, and getting the unique weather stripping installed above the side windows. The hardtops have a huge piece of weather strip that goes from the very back of the rear quarter window, along the top of all the side windows, and down the rear of the windshield pillar. The weather strip also has "built-in" windlace on both the outside edge, as well as the inside, and it wraps around a part of the stainless trim piece that shows on the interior of the car. My weather strip is not in the best of shape. However, I don't see it reproduced on the Steele website. If they do reproduce it, I wonder if they bother to put the fuzzy material on it.

Upon reinstallation, I ran into a problem that I don't have an answer to. The stainless pieces that hold in the said weather strip had some sort of rubber strip underneath them to help seal against water intrusion (more like tar impregnated rubber). However, the piece of stainless that goes over the rear quarter window had no such rubber when I originally took it off (both sides). That can't be right. There has to be some sort of rubber there, or water would go right around the trim piece. I can't find anything to confirm this though.

-Kevin

Attach file:



jpg  Trim pieces going back in.jpg (226.12 KB)
1059_603dd5aae613e.jpg 1024X768 px

jpg  Integrated windlace.jpg (255.76 KB)
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jpg  There is no rubber between the trim and body.jpg (268.76 KB)
1059_603dd5ecdd4cf.jpg 1138X1300 px

jpg  This is immediately after first removing the trim piece.jpg (169.25 KB)
1059_603dd5f763d59.jpg 768X1024 px

Posted on: 3/2 0:06
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#4
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kevinpackard
Mike - I can't help but be drawn to that sail panel area because it's so visible. I'll ask a guy I know and see what his thoughts are. The window tracks and beltline trim will be much easier in this car because they are straight. I'm just trying figure out the right size for both before I order. Then I need to figure out how to remove the windows.

BigKev - After seeing how nice yours turned out when the professionals did it, I was seriously considering having a pro take care of it. The problem was everyone I talked to was booked out until after April. I didn't have that kind of time so I figured I'd try it myself.

John - It's by no means a perfect job, but I'm relatively pleased with the outcome. There are a few things I would do differently, now that I've been through the whole process. I stretched to the front, then to the back, then started doing the sides in the back. If I were to do it over again I would've started the sides in the front, then worked my way back. I ended up with some wrinkles at the front that I can't get rid of because the mounts for the sunshades keep the #1 bow and seam from being pulled forward anymore. I think I can hide most of it and blend in any wrinkles, but it won't be a perfect job.

JWL - I've heard of steam as well, and I may try that. I asked an upholstery guy about the fold marks from shipping, and he said those will disappear over time. The most important thing is that the headliner is tight, which mine is. It sounds like a drum anywhere you tap on it. The problem I have with the sail panels is that the fabric was nice and tight there with no wrinkles, but as soon as I cut into it and mounted the lights, it pulled the fabric in a different direction (towards the outside of the car) and thus created wrinkles. If I back the screws out a bit from the mounting I might be able to less the wrinkles.

-Kevin

Posted on: 2/24 10:56
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Re: KPack
#5
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kevinpackard
Did a bit more on the headliner tonight. Cut off most of the excess using a razor blade, then started putting the cleaned and polished trim back in. Cutting the holes for the courtesy lights was terrifying. I was disappointed that some wrinkling occurred when I mounted the lights back in place. Not sure there is anything I could have done/can do to change that.

Still need to wrap up the front.

-Kevin

Attach file:



jpg  20210223_212229.jpg (343.51 KB)
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jpg  20210223_212246.jpg (306.99 KB)
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Posted on: 2/24 0:22
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Re: KPack
#6
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kevinpackard
Still working out details of how I'm going to get down there. Hopefully I can do it in the next couple of weeks. In the meantime I have made some progress.

Project
: Headliner Installation

I got the urge to try the install today because it was the first day we've had in a while that hit 50 degrees, and I had some time at home. I was able to get my garage up to 70 degrees, which allowed the material to relax and make it easier to stretch and pull.

Here are the steps I took:

1.) Pull on the centerline to the front, pulling against the back (bow #8 is clipped in place). My windshield is out, but it can be done with the windshield in place.

2.) Place contact cement on the metal, then pull the headliner and place it on the fresh cement....this will mark the general location for placement of contact cement on the headliner. Apply to both metal and headliner. Let tack up for a minute or two.

3.) Pull and stretch the centerline first, then start working out to the sides. Proper tightness can be measured by tapping a finger on the headliner panel closest to where you just stretched....it should by firm like a drum.

4.) Once the front is somewhat stretched, go to the back and stretch towards the rear at the centerline. Work outwards the same as the front.

5.) On the sail panel (hardtops), pull on the #8 seam and stretch it down. Glue in place, then go and finish the rear window side curvature. Make relief cuts as needed.

6.) Work seam by seam back towards the front, using a hair dryer to soften the material and make it easier to stretch. Pull and glue in the way that removes the wrinkles.

7.) When working on each seam, first check the listings on each of the bows (the cloth sleeve that bow sits in), and trim it back a bit with scissors. Typically they are too long and are too close to the ends of the bows. This will cause the headliner to bunch up at the curve. Trim the listing so it's at least an inch or two away from the end of the bow. This will allow the corners to pull smoothly.

8.) I ended up with some wrinkles in the front around the visor area. I saw before all this that my front bow (#1) was misshapen, but I didn't do anything about it because that's how it came off the car. I wasn't sure if it was supposed to be that way or not. Getting those wrinkles out is proving to be a bit of a pain.


At this point I'm going to let it sit overnight and I'll take a look at it tomorrow. I'm going to try and do a bit more work along the front corners and smooth things out a bit more there.

I'm pleasantly surprised with how it turned out. It's definitely not perfect, but I'd give it a solid 8.5/10. Once I wrap this up I can start putting the trim back inside and clear off my shelf space.

-Kevin

Attach file:



jpg  Step 1 pull the front on the centerline.jpg (286.21 KB)
1059_6034a2ce6fec4.jpg 1300X975 px

jpg  Step 2 - put cement on metal and mark headliner.jpg (278.32 KB)
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jpg  Step 3 - Work outward from center on front.jpg (134.59 KB)
1059_6034a2ec6044e.jpg 975X1300 px

jpg  Step 4 - Pull towards the rear on centerline.jpg (249.02 KB)
1059_6034a2fb0d43d.jpg 1300X975 px

jpg  Step 5 - Stretch out to the sides and sail panels.jpg (293.97 KB)
1059_6034a30ccbc2f.jpg 1300X975 px

jpg  Step 6 - work up the sides seam by seam.jpg (429.71 KB)
1059_6034a31d0285b.jpg 975X1300 px

jpg  Listing too close to end, causing bunching.jpg (224.04 KB)
1059_6034a333b5253.jpg 975X1300 px

jpg  Trim listing using scissors.jpg (181.86 KB)
1059_6034a34845afa.jpg 975X1300 px

jpg  Listing trimmed.jpg (261.23 KB)
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jpg  Step 7 - Continue working up the sides towards the front.jpg (176.90 KB)
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jpg  Step 8 - Trim the excess.jpg (145.58 KB)
1059_6034a3709e086.jpg 1300X975 px

jpg  Wrinkles at the front.jpg (298.27 KB)
1059_6034a3cd9be54.jpg 975X1300 px

jpeg  Installing the headliner.jpeg (85.62 KB)
1059_6034a3f26fbba.jpeg 1008X756 px

jpg  Headliner rear.jpg (169.84 KB)
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jpg  Headliner front.jpg (260.68 KB)
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Posted on: 2/23 0:44
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Re: Packard Decoder
#7
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kevinpackard
Too cool BigKev. That is really a nice touch you came up with there.

One question though....I ran my serial (5467-2128) and it came back saying it has a 359 cu in engine with the 9-main bearings. I though the Panama had a 327? At least that's what it says on the model info page.

-Kevin

Posted on: 2/22 17:40
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Re: Mike's 53 Clipper
#8
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kevinpackard
Looks nice. Where did you get your window channel and beltline fuzz from? I will eventually need to do the same on mine....it's all gone and the windows rattle like crazy.

-Kevin

Posted on: 2/22 17:36
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#9
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kevinpackard
Ernie - Funny you should mention that, because I'm thinking on similar lines. I'm considering driving down there myself and bringing the windshield back up. It's a 22 hour drive, but at least I can make sure the windshield makes it back in one piece. I'm going to have to take a day off work to do so, and get through a grueling drive there and back within 3 days so I can get back to work.

-Kevin

Posted on: 2/20 19:30
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#10
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kevinpackard
That's great advice, thanks. I've been doing a lot of reading, and the spray foam seems to be what a lot of guys end up doing. I'll talk to Mike and see if we can find a solution.

I toyed with the idea of driving down to pick up the replacement myself, but I won't be able to get away from work. I'm booked for weeks. It's 22 hours one way and I just can't take time off to do it.

-Kevin

Posted on: 2/19 22:16
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