Just the bezel? You might find a complete ignition switch, but the bezel looks pretty generic. You might measure your ID and look here and ask for the ID and thread.
http://www.classicpartsusa.com/produc ... content=Ad%20group%20%231

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eBay rebuildable $95
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1939-Packard- ... c741da:g:fE4AAOSwlIxfo1Lu

That's a big question. I am not a mechanic, but here are some basics.
1. Assuming the available engines are Packard engines, what year is each and how many cubic inches is each? Assuming 1940 - 1954, at least, new parts are available for all these 8 cyl. engines.
2. Does it run?
3. How many miles are on each engine?
4. Any water drops on the oil stick?
5. Clean around each spark plug, remove it and note its condition for each cylinder…oil, carbon, ash?
6. Does the engine turn over? With all the plugs removed, do and note a compression or air leak from a leak-down test on each cylinder.
7. Price.

Chuck,
The PM to you isn’t working for me. Could you try to PM me or post a recommendation for a shop/station near Rockville for oil change/lube services?
Thanks, Joe joes@mktx.com

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-37-Packa ... 2d6035:g:lHMAAOSw4f5YCNLb

Wrong?

Sorry to divert this thread for a personal message. I can’t make the PM function work for me to ask Chuck McDonald if he has a local resource to change oil and lube and check fluid levels in the drive train.

In trying to track 734 boat-tail Speedsters in Oregon, I had to write to a special dept by snail mail within the Oregon DMV that handles historic registrations that were not converted to computer. I was checking on 2 or 3 cars that I some registration information on, though the one in a photo with an Oregon plate they could not find, they did find addition information in the paper records on a couple of the cars.

Your upholstery shop should have a swatch book of available material for the inner ply so you can specify for E-Z Top the color you want. You can't buy from E-Z direct, but your shop can. I believe E-Z makes up the tops to order from the patterns they have. They can also make it unfinished on the edges so your shop can cut and fit the finished top precisely to your car. I choose special material for the inner ply and ordered the top rough so the shop could finish it to the Duchess. I have photos of what that looks like.

1. LOCKOUT CREEP Before I adjusted the cable from the lock-out switch to the OD lever, the cable had a tendency to work its way on its own towards engagement, but never going all the way, as when I push the lock-out knob all the way forward. At about 3/4s of the way forward, it would make a grinding noise. That situation has been partially remedied by a. making the cable length short by screwing in the clevis attached to the OD lever and b. by inserting a section of PVC on the lockout rod to prevent is from moving forward. The PVC as shown in the photo a few posts back has a full length slit that allows me to insert or remove it easily. Without the PVC, the only time the rod wants to move forward is when I use reverse gear. I don't think this issue affects the kick-down functionality. 2. HOW OD USED I almost always starting from a standstill, drive the car in standard gears. All gears work. All have direct-drive/engine-braking. Once on a road clear of bumper-to-bumper traffic and moving at 30mph or faster, I engage the clutch and push the lock-out switch forward with my foot on the accelerator. The red indicator light comes on and I release the accelerator as the OD engages. Then I resume acceleration. If I stop somewhere on my trip, I almost always leave the lock-out knob in, so that after I start the car and start moving, I will be in OD after the governor registers 22 mph via the speedometer pinion attached to the OD. There is no noise after the OD is fully and intentionally engaged. And there is engine braking above 22 mph, but at a higher gear ratio, so it is not very effect engine-braking. 3. DECELERATION Yes, below 22 MPH, slowing down for a stoplight, for instance, the OD disengages but the standard gears are free-wheeling. 4. Since the cable was adjusted, there is no clicking and grinding. The OD disengages below 22mph and goes into free-wheeling. You help os much appreciated, dc, but since everything is working except the kick-down function, I'm inclined to wait until Ross returns. It may be something obvious to his eyes. I could not figure out precisely from the description what parts and set up/connections are needed for the test light tool. I know, duh, but for instance how does a little alligator clip connect to a 6v battery? How do I have alligator clips at both ends and a probe? There are some old test lights for sale sans battery. Are there modern ones that work for 6v? I'm sure Ross will have one, and if you were here you could show me, dense as I am when it comes to this. I printed out the training manual. I'll study those sections you ref'ed.

Hi, DC,

Yes, I have a fuel pressure gauge. If you search the Forums for "electric fuel pump vs. original” you’ll see my set up.
“It’s always something with that car,” is a favorite quote of A Certain Person.
As far as daily driver goes:
1. There is nothing on the car that can’t be repaired because of part failure, old age, accident, or vandalism (rare).
2. People in 1940 drove cars for everything, not just trailered to a show or driven on a tour at elderly speeds and short distances.
3. I’m 78, so statistically, how long do I have to keep this car running so I can do something I love?
4. Most parts and repairs, I have found, cost less to replace and repair than for a similarly nice modern car.
5. If you want reliability, you have to stay on top of regular maintenance and fix things as they crop up (Hence the comment: It’s always something. . .)

Confirming:
1. Yes, it’s still 6v, positive ground.
2. Yes, the lock-out switch ‘plunger’ attached to the dash, has wanted to slide forward gradually and unnoticed until at about 3/4’s forward the tranny makes a loud noise. To correct this, I twisted the adjusting clevis so, when the plunger was pulled out of OD, the engagement lever on the OD was farther forward, as far as the threads on the cable for the clevis would allow. Now it seem it only moves forward toward engagement if I use reverse, but other than that instance, it stays out. I did cut a piece of pvc cable cover to hold it, but haven’t needed it since I made the adjustment.
3. The OD would never engage on its own. It would just slide to a point where it made noise. When I push in the plunger, it always engages if I’m going fast enough (22mph). The OD operates as it should in all gears, except for the kick-down function.
4. On one occasion, after coming off the freeway using OD, I came to a stop light in a residential area and pulled it out of OD. When the light turned green, I let out the clutch the gear engaged after a big clunk. It had done this before, but on this one occasion, the standard gears stayed in free wheeling when I let off the gas. At some point soon after that, after using the OD again, using the reverse again, the system corrected itself and I had engine-braking in standard gear again.
5. The kick-down function does not work, correct.
6. I do not manually disengage just because of deceleration but because the traffic speeds are too slow, too many traffic lights, slow speeds on residential hills when engine braking really saves the brakes. The stalling was before I replaced the floats. Yes, the governor functions as it should.
7. The only malfunction is the kick-down.
8. PackardDon Pierson had a similar experience being in OD, 2nd gear, slowing down to 5 mph and not putting in the clutch, hitting the gas and boom. I do have a throttle guard on the Duchess now, but it is not set correctly. I plan to do this when Ross returns. But to me, it’s not worth the risk of the muffler exploding again because it could blow an eardrum.

9. The solenoid is well grounded. No rusty bolts on the Duchess. The undercarriage is pretty clean. The rebuilt solenoids installed in maybe 2017. I will go under and wipe down the solenoid.
10. Control relay is on the firewall. There is a video testing the contacts. You can hear the solenoid also click when the contacts are manipulated to set the momentary delay between when the upper contact is released and the lower one releases itself.
11. Photos on thread show the connections for each segment of the circuit. For the wire from the kickdown to the OD extension, I dropped a wire clipped to the kickdown straight down under the car. Connected that wire to multimeter and from multimeter to extension junction. The I tested from extension junction to governor. Then I connected the junction wires and tested from kickdown to governor. For the relay to lockout, I clipped to the relay and went in through the vent window to the lockout switch.
12. I have no mechanical ability. Backwards often looks correct to me. My process is. It takes me 3 times doing something wrong before I learn to do it right.
13. I run Valvoline 30wt VR1 high zinc hi-pro racing oil. Ain’t the cheapest oil change. I have 1800 mi since Oct 1, so I’m due again.
14. Yes, it looks like fun because you can't hear the cursing.