I ended up sourcing the seat/panel fabric (see the picture from my post) at SMS. It is a virtually identical wool broadcloth to the original fabric. No matter where it is purchased, it is expensive. I think it was around $110 per yard. That being said, SMS also provided some other samples for carpet and headliner, but my upholsterer was able to get them for a little less elsewhere. I ended up with wool carpeting (expensive stuff) and a cotton headliner. He did a great job. It took a while. Originally he thought he would have the car about 60 days, but other work that he had to do caused some delays in completing my car. I think it ended up taking about 120 days from start to finish. Total cost was in the $5000 range. I had an estimate from a guy in Rochester a couple of years ago and he wanted twice that much ($10,000), so I think I got a pretty fair deal. I will try and take some pictures for you of the interior of the car and post them here if you like.

Mine are all bias ply.... they should fit with no problem.

First of all, my thanks to Fred Kanter for the gin and vermouth advice....... great idea !! After all, we are still getting summer weather here in upstate NY.

As for the overheating:

I purchased two 12 ounce containers of wood bleach (oxalic acid) today and started the process. Drained all of the brand new coolant out of the radiator and block. Filled it with the oxalic acid solution (I pre-mixed that according to the directions on the canister) and water. Started up the car and let it get to about 180 degrees to make sure the solution gets into most of the block areas.

My plan is to start the car a couple of times each day and let it get to 180. After 2 or 3 days of that, will drain the system and flush with clean water. I have thought about doing this same process again with the other canister of oxalic acid, flush with water, then fill system with baking soda to counteract the acid process. Then drain that solution, flush again, and finally (after about 6 days); refill with a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. At that point..... I am hopeful that the overheating problem is solved.

If anyone has any other advice or tips on a better way to flush (with details please) other than just filling thru the top of the radiator, I would sure appreciate it. The block drain is so small and of course my drain cock with the downspout broke, so it is a mess draining the block (covering the starter and the opening for the flywheel).

One last note for the moment: using my laser temp device, I noticed that the temperatures on top of the head where each cylinder is located were all over the place. #8 cyl was extremely hot compared to #7 and 6, etc. My sincere thanks to everyone who has offered up solutions..... I am still hopeful that I will drive the car this year!!!

I have both new rubber pieces (2 for each sidemount) and they are installed. I am still wondering what holds the sheet metal covers in place on the tire(s). It just doesn't make sense to me that "friction" is the only thing that holds them solidly in position...... especially with mirror(s) on the top of each side. Those mirrors must vibrate considerably. We all know that a vibrating mirror is almost impossible to see out of. If Packard engineers designed these so that works good..... my hat is off to them!

My tires are 7.00 x 16, so they are the correct size. I have some new foam about the thickness of the pieces that are in the picture.

I'm not sure how to conduct a radiator flow rate test on the radiator..... or what you would compare it to. I installed the radiator/radiator frame assembly to the car frame 15 years ago. If my memory serves me right, there is 1 large bolt that holds the radiator to the rad frame. How would you remove the radiator without removing the grille assembly? Do you think it will come out through the engine bay after the water pump/fan was removed? The sheet metal fit up was a nightmare with this car. Can you provide the details of how to accomplish this without removing the fenders (and brackets), headlights, front bumper, hood, inner fenders, etc.? Thanks. Daryl

Thanks Wes. I changed the radiator cap. The one that is on it has a rubber seal. The previous was cork. It fits on tight and there is no leakage. It is not a vented cap.

I keep hoping for something simple that I have missed. Water pump was inspected closely with no issues (impeller not loose, no wobble, etc.). At this point, I do not want to remove the radiator..... unless I am absolutely sure that it is the problem ...... anyone who owns one of these cars knows exactly what that entails..... not good. Pretty much the whole front clip has to come off. It appears we will be getting some cooler weather in the next few days. I will go early in the morning and see what happens with ambient temps in the high 60's instead of the mid 80's.

Timing was checked with timing light. Timing is right on the money. Water pump gaskets were NOS made by Victor. I did notice this small oddball hole.

Funny thing is the car was running fine..... idling at 180 degrees with no problems, except a small carburetor problem. Shut it down, had carb corrected, and started the car up a couple of days later....... and it overheated. I keep asking myself "what changed"??

Thanks! Has 155 degree thermostat. I tested the thermostat in a pan of water yesterday - works just fine. Temperature at the probe using laser was 200 to 205. Similar at the gooseneck.