I spent yesterday morning at the State Patrol vin inspection station.
They decided to use both the vin plate number and the anti theft number on the firewall

The reasoning behind the decision was the Vin plate tells what the car is but it’s held on with 4 screws. The anti theft number is permanent.
By using both they felt it was a way to tie the vin to the body that it was attached to.
They removed the engine number from the state records and said to get a notarized bill of sale for both the buyer and myself when I sell the old motor. That way they won’t have any issues when they reregister their car with that engine number

Great information - that helps a lot

It also validates what I am finding.
A red oxide color of primer under the cowl pads and it explains the black I am finding in some areas under the paint

Just wanted to share a little information to all of you who are doing an engine swap or restoring your cars and do not realize that Packard's are titled to the engine number. If the engine has been changed and the title not updated you could have a problem if it ever get stolen or you go to sell it.
I bring this up as a reminder because I didn't realize this and almost sold the engine that was in the car. I know have to take the chassis that is stripped with the engine in it to the State Patrol to get a new vin number assigned to the title. They said they will probably use the anti theft number as the vin number. This isn't correct per their books but they said they would do that until I bring it back restored with the new engine in it. At that time they will reinspect it and assign the new engine number as the vin number for the title.
It makes me wonder how many titles actually match the correct engine number

When painting your cars, what was the original color for the under body area, the back side of fenders, the back side of the hood side panels and the inside floor and cowl?
I have seem them painted black and I have seen them painted the main body color.
On my 42 it looks like the cowl was originally a reddish primer under the cowl pad and bare steel up under and behind the dash

Any thoughts
Thanks

As I take apart my 42 I noticed the lower hinges are a bit loose at the pin.
The only part that is worn is the center section that pivots

I have two options as I see it

#1 - I can buy new pins that are .275 in diameter that match the old pins, I can braze up and re-drill the center section one end at a time to the proper size and this will take up any wobble

#2- I can buy over sized .340 pins and re-drill the both pieces of the hinge to the correct size

Thoughts on either method or a better method would be appreciated

Thanks, Jerry

Great information, I really appreciate it

As I strip out all the tar, undercoating off the surfaces of my trunk area on my 42 convertible, I was wondering what was actually on the trunk floor and walls when they let the factory.

Curious what all of you use when you restore your cars inside the trunk area.

Attach file:

---

  IMG_6737.JPEG (1,084.32 KB)


  IMG_7415.JPEG (1,162.60 KB)


  IMG_7395.JPEG (1,475.55 KB)

Looking for a turn signal lever from a 1942 110, 120, 160 or commercial chassis.

This is the non clipper type

Please check and see if you have one stashed away

Thanks, Jerry

Attach file:

---

  D0DC7FC6-7CCD-4D34-A9EF-24F1D1C1D23D.jpeg (3,726.74 KB)

Jon,
I already have the overdrive in the restored chassis and I have the correct cable and relay!

Complete running 288 engine and transmission. Block is a 1948.
Transmission is set up for am electromatic clutch with the governor and sensors.
I drove the car into the garage and just pulled it out. I have no need for a 288 as I am going back to a 282.
I can sell just the engine or transmission or as a package deal.
Package deal is $850 OBO
Only know issue is the water pump needs rebuilt but I think I have an extra I can throw in
Located west of Seattle WA.

Attach file:

---

  IMG_6454.JPEG (1,116.20 KB)


  IMG_6458.JPEG (1,107.87 KB)


  IMG_6470.jpeg (807.27 KB)


  IMG_6461.JPEG (1,096.16 KB)