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56Clippers

Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga

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Quote:

kevinpackard wrote:
Checked vacuum at the line to wipers, before the check valve for the brakes. About 15inHg, which is better but not good enough.

After a little more digging, found a leak at the vacuum tank connection. Looks like hose clamp that is on there is the wrong size and is not sealing well enough. Adjusted it and vacuum jumped up to 18 inHg steady.

Brakes are significantly improved. Now a light touch applies the brakes easily, and a medium push really slows it down. Not locking all wheels, but much, much better than before. It feels as I imagine it should.

Maybe a hard push will get the wheels to lock.

Quote:

Maybe I can check it again, but this time put a cap on the end of the check valve to eliminate the entire brake assembly from the equation.

Have you tried this yet?

Here is the equation:

Click to see original Image in a new window

Posted on: 4/19 5:37

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56Clippers

Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga

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Quote:

kevinpackard wrote:
I did connect the vacuum gauge to the hard line going to the wipers after I tightened everything up. It was the same reading as at the tank.

Was the hose to the brakes connected to the check valve at that time?

Posted on: 4/17 14:35

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56Clippers

Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga

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Quote:

Ross wrote:
There is no vacuum port available on the Rochester carb itself as that place is taken up by the big brass fitting that holds the check valve and the one line heading off to the wiper distribution manifold.

I should have said to connect the gauge to the check valve fitting.
The idea is to measure the vacuum that feeds the brake system independent of the components of the brake system.

Posted on: 4/16 20:55

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56Clippers

Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga

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Quote:

For checking the vacuum to the brake system I connected to the hose at the tank.

Assuming you removed the connection to the tank and that is where you connected the gauge, your gauge is measuring the engine vacuum minus any connection and booster losses. Being that your vacuum readings are low, I was suggesting that you connect the gauge directly to the vacuum port on the carb. Any difference in readings indicate vacuum leaks in the booster or connections. You should also test the tank for leaks. If the reading from the vacuum port on the carb is low, you need to take a look at the engine.

Posted on: 4/16 19:37

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56Clippers

Re: Shifting by linear actuator

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Quote:

Pgh Ultramatic wrote:

If you were going to do this you would want to use a servomotor not a linear actuator, as you can calibrate on position, not timing.

Linear actuators are available with built-in position feedback.

Posted on: 4/16 12:05

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56Clippers

Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga

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Quote:

kevinpackard wrote:

I unplugged the line at the vacuum tank and hooked it up to a vacuum meter.

Was this where you had the gauge for all of your tests?
It would be worth checking the source vacuum separately from the full brake system.

Posted on: 4/16 3:40

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56Clippers

Re: Oil after Oil Pump Upgrade

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The Melling M-22F AND M-22FHV pumps both come with a standard pressure relief valve that opens at 50 psi.
There is an optional spring for the relief valve to make it open at 65 psi.
Unfortunately Melling does not have the nice charts for these pumps that they have for their high performance line of pumps.
You may want to put a pressure gauge on and get actual pressure numbers. Knowing provides much more peace of mind than guessing.

Posted on: 4/14 12:47

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56Clippers

Re: Mojave Tan - A 1956 400 Saga

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Have you quantified the fluid loss from the leak(s)?

Looks like the next things to check are the vacuum and the hydraulic pressure output.

Posted on: 4/14 4:10

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56Clippers

Re: replacing the 55 400 intake manifold

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Quote:

custo eight wrote:

I treated it with Ballistol (german for gun oil) last night and pulled it out with my fingers this AM. good stuff!!

I used Kroil and mine came out easily.

Quote:

Ross, I originally thought I would cerakote the new manifold but was getting mixed reviews on heat entrapment etc. I dont understand that technology but also dont wish to cause any additional problems.

I used Cerakote on my exhaust manifolds and they are like it was just done. If they had the right color I probably would have done the intake manifold.

Posted on: 4/13 12:29

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56Clippers

Re: Ultramatic Direct Drive

#10

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Quote:

paulsPackard wrote:
yes sir, i was also thinking about hooking the pressure gauge to the direct drive port... If it never goes high, then it has to be the transmission, but if goes to high pressure, and nothing happens, it must be the clutch..... Am i thinking right???

Yes, your original idea of 3/20, "My plan is to hook a pressure gauge to the DD port behind the bell housing and see if it's getting pressure.", was correct.

The service manual lists the tests and pressures starting on page 29.

You should also test the pump pressure and the governor pressure. The governor pressure controls the direct drive shift valve.
While you are testing pressures, you should run as many of the tests as you can (the internal connection tests are a problem to run unless you have the test pan). This will give you an idea of the overall health of the transmission.

Posted on: 4/8 11:19

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