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Board index » All Posts (lrlampi)




Turn Signal problems 47 custom super Clipper
#1
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Lauren R Lampi
I have been having problems with the turn signals on my 47 custom super Clipper. The signals will not cancel automatically when I turn the corner. The turn signal unit in the column just under the wheel clicks as I straighten the wheel but will not cancel automatically.
There is a space between the wheel and the chrome signal unit housing of about 3/8 inch. I had read on the forum that the outer sleeve of the steering column can be moved up a bit after the bracket under the dash is loosened a bit and something on the column under the hood. I can't
remember what was to be loosed under the hood. Looking at the end of the steering column an inch or two before the column gets to the steering box there is a "U" bolt that goes around the end column. Is that the part that needs to be loosened in order to slide the column a bit closer to the wheel?.

Also the turn signals are very dim. I painted the inside of all the light "buckets" with white paint. Grounded all of the lights with a separate ground wire. Using Halogen replacement bulbs for the turn signals and tail/stop lights.
I rewired all the sockets with new little brass/copper Contacts and wiring. Do I need a different "flasher unit"
if I have the halogen bulbs? Do I need to pull the wheel and replace the turn signal unit? Or should I just go back the regular turn signal bulbs and tail/stop light bulbs?

Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minnesota

Posted on: 2015/10/6 17:16
Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minn.
 Top 


Fuel Guage 47 Custom Super Clipper
#2
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Lauren R Lampi
This summer my fuel gauge has been acting erratically.
When the fuel tank is full, The gauge will read "Full" and the needle will be stable on the gauge. When the tank gets down to about 3/4 , the gauge needle will start swinging from E to F with a very noticeable "click - Click,
click - click, click - click. Very distracting and annoying. I had rewired the car when I was doing the restoration work. Before the gauge worked thru the entire range.

Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minn.

Posted on: 2015/10/6 16:50
Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minn.
 Top 


Re: 47 356 manifolds
#3
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Lauren R Lampi
Thank you for the reply and information on hot spot gaskets.
I was looking at the Max Merritt on line catalog this AM.
It listed the hot spot gaskets and showed a photo of the gasket. This is the one that was sent for 356. I will check the fit and alignment of the manifolds to see if I need to use it for the installation.

Lauren R Lampi,
Grand Rapids, MN

Posted on: 2015/9/7 9:41
Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minn.
 Top 


Re: 47 356 manifolds
#4
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Lauren R Lampi
I was not aware that the 356 engine did NOT have a gasket between the intake and exhaust manifolds at the "Hot Box" area connection. The suppliers sell them and that is why I purchased one to use on my repairs..
So don't use the gasket at the hot box.
The gasket that I got looks like it is made for that area.

Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids,MN

Posted on: 2015/9/6 16:54
Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minn.
 Top 


Re: 47 356 manifolds
#5
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Lauren R Lampi
I took another look at the manifold assembly that I have on the bench. Took out the three bolts that hold the assembly together at the heat box. There is a little clearance in the bolt hole that holds the two together.
Also found that there was NOT a gasket for the two manifold pieces. I have a new hot box gasket so that will be installed on assembly.
after everything in cleaned up and painted, I will assemble the manifolds but leave the hot box bolts a little loose.
After I attach the manifolds to the block, I will gradually
tighten all bolts to align the manifolds.
One step at a time.
It will be good to get the 47 back on the road.
Hot here in Northern Minnesota.........80's.

Will start to cool down next week.

Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Mn

Posted on: 2015/9/6 8:48
Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minn.
 Top 


Re: 47 356 manifolds
#6
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Lauren R Lampi
Thanks for the reply.
I must have gotten the OM type of gaskets because they have the lip that goes into the port and the metal and
asbestos sandwich that fit along the block.

I am not completely clear about the recommended sequence for installing the manifolds.
Is it recommended that the intake and exhaust be installed separately. (Exhaust first and intake second)
Or are they installed together, with the three bolts on the heat box loose so there would be a bit of play between the two manifolds. Then start to snug up the manifold to block fasteners and the heat box bolts.

Before I bolted the two manifolds together at the heat box,
then installed the everything as a single unit.

Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, MN

Posted on: 2015/9/5 13:45
Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minn.
 Top 


47 356 manifolds
#7
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Lauren R Lampi
I'm in the process of assembling the 47 356 engine.
I ordered new gaskets for the valve job. The manifold gaskets that I received were "different" than the old ones. The new manifold gaskets were the "individual"
round 4 intake and 2 exhaust gaskets and 3 double exhaust gaskets. The old ones that I took off were the three
flat types that are between the manifold and block.
They were not working that well because several of the
exhaust areas were "burnt" through.
Are the new ones that I ordered the correct ones?
I think that they would do a better job than the flat ones.

Also, when reinstalling the manifolds, do they go back on as a unit, of do they go on "loosened" in the exhaust hot box area, mount them as a unit, tighten the manifold assembly to the block, then tighten the hot box bolts..

Just looking at the manifold assembly on the bench, it looks like the mounting surfaces are a bit off.

I looked in my shop manual and it isn't much help in that area.

Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minnesota
47 Custom Supper Clipper

Posted on: 2015/9/5 10:31
Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minn.
 Top 


Starter Solinoid 356 connections
#8
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Lauren R Lampi
I'm working on replacing and lifter inserts in the hydraulic lifters in the 356 engine on my 47 custom supper clipper.
I found a "remoter starter button" with a 3 foot cord in the back of a tool drawer. Has two insulated clips to connect to started terminals.
Question for today........... which terminals on the starter solenoid do I connect the remoter starter button
on to. The solenoid has four terminals. The lower two larger ones on the solenoid are : inboard terminal connects to started case.
the outboard lower terminal is for battery power input.
The two smaller upper terminals are the ones that I suspect should be the terminals to connect the remote starter button to. Would this be correct.

Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minnesota

Posted on: 2015/8/11 9:37
Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minn.
 Top 


Re: Engine "Tick" in 356 Su per Clipper
#9
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Lauren R Lampi
That's correct. Not the valve spring, but the spring that
is around the upper portion of the lifter insert.
I was looking at the old original part that I removed three
or four years ago. the spring in the original part was
heavier and the reproduction part.
I'm going to check all of the old original parts that I
have saved. Get them cleaned up and disassembled and
check for any wear or potential bad areas.

Got some paint remover and dabbed it on the head nuts to
remove the paint. wife's sons are visiting this weekend,
so I will enlist their help to remove the hood and get it
stored. They helped remove the hood about 5 years ago
when I started the project. Lined up an engine hoist from a friend so I can safely lift off the head after I get it loosened.

Hop that the old lifter inserts check of Okay.

Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, MN

Posted on: 2015/8/7 18:58
Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minn.
 Top 


Engine "Tick" in 356 Su per Clipper
#10
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Lauren R Lampi
Developed a Tick in my 356 Super Clipper this summer.
Seems like it was coming from the front half of the engine.
Sounded like a lifter tick. Took off the carb and fuel lines. The manifolds and lifter covers. Checking the lifter inserts, I found that the intake valve lifter on the
number one cylinder was a problem. The lifter spring was
"loose". I could move the spring up and down and also spin the spring around the lifter. The lifter on the intake
valve of the number four cylinder is starting to show the
same symptoms. the remaining lifters seem OK right now.
I did a valve and ring job on the engine about 3 years ago
and have about one thousand miles on the engine.
Engine had about 70,000 miles on it.
I put a lot of new parts in the engine at that time.
New valves, springs, retainers, Timing chain and gears,
oil pump, fuel pump, Rebuilt carb, electrical parts and
NEW hydraulic valve lifter inserts in all the lifters.

Now I need to Pull the head and take out the valves and
remove the lifter inserts.

I have the old original lifter inserts that I removed when
I was doing the engine work. I kept them in plastic baggies
so I know which lifter went with witch valve.

Put the old lifter inserts back in after I clean them up,
Or do I try it again and buy a new set of lifter inserts
and put them in ???? Maybe the old ones a better than
the reproductions. You have to take the head off to do
these replacements.

Anyone else have experience with repro lifter inserts?

Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, MN
47 Super Custom Clipper
54 Clipper deluxe

Posted on: 2015/8/7 12:21
Lauren R Lampi
Grand Rapids, Minn.
 Top 



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