I prefer the beam wrenches because you can see how close you are to your torque spec.
For instance, when re-tightening head bolts, are they all consistently 10 lbs under or are some 5 and some 15?
They do have the disadvantage that they are not ratcheting wrenches so getting enough clearance to turn a nut is sometimes a problem.

The picture was used on his "Before the Beach" album

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Stuff you can't make up!

The Owners Manual is also from 1953

I think I have the color brochure that you are looking for. It is dated November, 1950.
I will get it scanned and post it here soon.

You can do this with a solenoid (clicker) type pump as they allow fuel to flow through when the pump is off. It won't work with a rotary or vane type pump as they won't allow fuel to flow through when the pump is off.

Oil may go bad from accumulating contaminants but it doesn't go bad from age. When it comes out of the ground, most oil is at least 10 million years old, some of it is 300 million years old.

This apparently was a problem back in the day, too. The 51-52 caps have 8 tabs on the back but the newer 53-54 caps have 16.

The door handles are chrome. An option to having yours rechromed is to find a good set from 54 or 55 as they are all the same.

Do you have radial tires? They can cause enough flex in the wheels to allow hubcap creep.

I had this problem and bent the "teeth" out until the hubcaps were nearly impossible to put on. I took some JB weld and made a couple little bumps on the rim where the teeth ride. This seems to have worked.