Hello all
Been many years now since I've
been on here. Just not enough time
I'm in Torrance Ca 90502,
I have a few Packard parts
from a 400.
pair of drums
pair of drums with spindles
a 374 has 2 stuck pistons...
a twin ultramatic, that was a push
button unit
I'm offering these items free
but you need to pick them up...
I'll keep them for 1 month, then
out they go. I just have time
or maybe desire .
So email me
Sanddoc@gmail.com

sounds right. So any idea on how to remedy
that?
I'm just kicking this around. but like most
things, they just start with an idea, thought.

Maybe a roller tip on the end of the rotor
and a flush contacts in the cap so there would
be a direct contact

So if that could be overcome, do you think it
would fire the COP?

what is interesting when I think of these COP
ignition, in truth they are 100 years old
the old vibrator box,
so maybe should look at them for a start..
oh well , just another idea..
Best

OK, not really a Packard topic, but
My mine has been thinking of this, and
I have found no answer or anyone who could
answer this, so I'll give you guys a chance.

In todays new cards, they have coil near plug
and coil on plug (Ford) and others.

The computer and a trigger on the crank usually
run this setup

But what is this not possible for an older car

install Coil on plug or Coil near plug (your choice0
Then run the 12v coil wire to the High Tension lead
and let it run 12v dc down the "old spark plug wires
to the new coil setup". if this works we can then
makeup some regular 12/14g wire and run them from
the distributor to the COP.
What is wrong with this setup??
yes I know we would get rid of the 7 or 8 mm plug wires.

thanks for that info...
I think you are correct about the wedge inside

Thanks Don
Best

OK, bad on me. I removed the fuel line from
the pump to the original glass fuel bowl.
What happen to it, after that I don't know, and
I've been looking for 2. weeks
so what is the fuel line size from pump to
bowl?
1956 374 V8

I did the search, found a topic from Jan.
I posted a reply thinking that the subject
would return..
Anyway...
Rust removal. cheap, clean,enviomentally sound

Vinegar. 5%
$2.64 a gal. at Walmart. house brand

so I'm a little late
But I use (Vinegar) for rust removal.
Even on some large parts.
just soak the piece in vinegar and wait a day or
two. take out of the solution, rinse, if there is stil
rust, just dip it in again.
For large pieces, I soak old thin rags
in the vinegar, then place on the rusted area.
Then I place plastic over it as a vapor barrier.
I did the roof of my 74 dart this way
inside rim, the splash shield, fender skirts.
At $2.64 a gal. that is cheap rust removal..
Do not use on any type of spring.
Best

Hi
I've had this "hood Ornament for a very long time
just ran across it in my spare parts bin..
Don't know what year it is for.
Never had the wings. It does have a
factory piece inside, I have know idea what it is
for.
If your interested in it, let me know.
BTW. It is in good + condition. no bubbles
in the chrome
the under side was painted yellow at some time.
Best
How about a photo you say, I did forget to upload them
sorry
Also a steering column for a push button trans.
Can anyone tell me from what year this would have been?
As an aside, For those that need rust removal
I use Vinegar. good old 5% vinegar, $2.65 gal
at Walmart.. It does a great job. on small to
larger parts. The splash shield, fender skirts
rusty wheels.

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Wow At least no one jumped down my throat
finishing.com/faqs/chrome.shtml

That is the information I used, read it.

the two Nickel process is what makes
the piece shine,

For "show Chrome" it is not the chemical
its the labor to polish the metal.
I've thought about doing that myself, as I have
4 really 6 bumpers to chrome. but in this case
I don't have the equipment for the job or maybe
even the skill. That's not to say I could not do it
but if you then take the piece in and they need
to redo what you did what is the point.
plus they get the chrome and nickel back.
But take a look at the web site and read what they
say.
Best