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Board index » All Posts (ChrisGoodfellow)




Re: Shutter-Opening Thermostat
#1
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Big Kev,
Any idea why this thread 'restarted' itself in a new & separate post??? I certainly didn't do anything! Chris.

Posted on: 10/20 1:04
'If you think you can, or you think you can't - you're right!' Henry Ford.
1939 Packard Six, Model 1700
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Re: Shutter-Opening Thermostat
#2
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Hey JWL,
You're right, the 245 six can take a conventional T-stat and I have one installed. As I mentioned in my #1 post, I can and would wire the shutters open, it's just that the Sylphon T-stat auto opening and closing system is such a cool feature, I'd like to keep it original and functioning. I'm pretty near the end of my season up here in Canada, so I have all winter to 'save up'!! Chris.

Posted on: 10/17 13:51
'If you think you can, or you think you can't - you're right!' Henry Ford.
1939 Packard Six, Model 1700
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Re: Shutter-Opening Thermostat
#3
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Greenfield.
On my unit ('39) there are gaskets on BOTH sides of the Sylphon thermostat. I agree with you that the 'receiving' flange on the rad is less-than, but I'm not sure I'd put silicone on there to seal it, as errant gobs can really cause havoc in cooling systems. (or any internal system) The outer cover gasket on mine looked good upon removal, but the 'back' one came off in pieces. I remade it out of some good quality gasket stock and will seal it with a light buttering of 'Form-a-Gasket'. It is a zero pressure system, but hot antifreeze sure can find a leak-path if not perfectly sealed. Chris.

Posted on: 10/17 13:25
'If you think you can, or you think you can't - you're right!' Henry Ford.
1939 Packard Six, Model 1700
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Re: Shutter-Opening Thermostat
#4
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Thanks for the replies. Dave, I did check Bill Hirsch and they list the exact unit, but the availability status shows as 'Currently Out of Stock'.
I did test the unit in a pot of water on the stove and had to boil it to get movement and then only about 1/8". As yet, no answers from rebuild sources.
Chris.

Posted on: 10/17 12:11
'If you think you can, or you think you can't - you're right!' Henry Ford.
1939 Packard Six, Model 1700
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Re: Shutter-Opening Thermostat
#5
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Thanks for taking the time to reply CartRich. I think I have kind of answered my own question here. Further sleuthing online uncovered a couple of sources for these, both rebuilt and reproed. It seems like the old story: nothing that can't be fixed if you throw enough money at it!! The reproed ones are $500 give or take and I am waiting on a callback from a Jim Otto, who can apparently repair them for around half that. I'll see where it all takes me... $500's a chunka, though!
Chris.

Posted on: 10/16 17:36
'If you think you can, or you think you can't - you're right!' Henry Ford.
1939 Packard Six, Model 1700
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Shutter-Opening Thermostat
#6
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Hi All,

My shutters suddenly quit opening. Last time I drove the car they opened fully, now nothing. I checked for coolant level, right up, I checked for any obstructions to the assembly and they open fine if I push on the rod, so I'm down to the T-stat. Can they be had?? Possibly rebuilt (although I have removed mine and it is a solder-sealed unit) or are there any other fixes, short of wiring the shutters open?? I can and would do that if I had to, but the opening and closing of them has always been a cool feature of this car and I would dearly like to keep them functional. Any help or direction much appreciated. Thanks, Chris.

Posted on: 10/16 16:57
'If you think you can, or you think you can't - you're right!' Henry Ford.
1939 Packard Six, Model 1700
 Top 


Shutter-Opening Thermostat
#7
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Packard Newbie
Hi All,

My shutters suddenly quit opening. Last time I drove the car they opened fully, now nothing. I checked for coolant level, right up, I checked for any obstructions to the assembly and they open fine if I push on the rod, so I'm down to the T-stat. Can they be had?? Possibly rebuilt (although I have removed mine and it is a solder-sealed unit) or are there any other fixes, short of wiring the shutters open?? I can and would do that if I had to, but the opening and closing of them has always been a cool feature of this car and I would dearly like to keep them functional. Any help or direction much appreciated. Thanks, Chris.

Posted on: 10/16 16:56
'If you think you can, or you think you can't - you're right!' Henry Ford.
1939 Packard Six, Model 1700
 Top 


Re: 1941 180 coolant leak
#8
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Quote:
One paycheck at a time.

Yeah, I sure get that, I'm retired and have to watch my shekels too!
Couple of things... if you go to buy the hoses, I doubt you will get them off-the-shelf, ready to install, due to the age of the vehicle. On mine, I took them to the local NAPA store, and the guy matched them up 'ID & bend-wise' with my old ones. While not exact matches, they were such that they could be cut down and would work. Again, only talking from my '39 experience, but both my upper and lowers had internal springs to keep them from collapsing. The aforementioned replacements did not have springs and they are REQUIRED. If you can buy correct-size spring stock to insert in the new hoses, that's optimum. On mine, I couldn't, so I took the old springs out of my used hoses, cleaned them up with a wire brush and some steel wool, and inserted then in my new hoses. This is NOT a fun task and requires some patience! I made a little 'harness' out of a leather boot lace, seriously lubed up the tube of the new hoses with dish soap, and worked the springs into place. It took a while, but I got them exactly where they needed to be, leaving a cuff free of wire on each end to go on the hose bibs of the rad and pump. I used leather so as not to damage the tubes of the new hoses. Oh and I rinsed them really well with water before installing so I wasn't blowing bubbles out my rad!! LOL Also, John Ulrich Packard has come up with a stainless steel retaining sleeve for the thermostat, which, IMO, is far superior to the galvanized wire clip that is normally found, rusted to crap, inside the head spout. All of the above contribute to this being a fairly 'involved' task. In and of itself, switching out a water pump isn't that big a deal; it's all the little extra stuff that goes with it, that turns it into a bit of a chore. Chris.

Posted on: 8/12 12:33
'If you think you can, or you think you can't - you're right!' Henry Ford.
1939 Packard Six, Model 1700
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Re: 1941 180 coolant leak
#9
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Hi CartRich,

You sound like you have a pretty good handle on the 'order' of things and when I say 'involved', I only mean time-consuming and finickity. Keep track of the bolts as they come out of the pump as to which go where, as they both differ in length and, on mine, there were a couple with a special copper washer and they need to go 'back where they came from'.
Sometimes with the front motor mount, if it is really old, and the engine has 'sagged' a bit, it will interfere with the sealing surface of the bottom of the pump. You can support the engine with some wood under the oilpan and a floor jack and remove the 2 engine bolts from the mount and then jack the motor up another 1/4" to 3/8" to give you good exposure to the mating surface of the block. You obviously want to get it perfectly clean to preclude leaks. I scraped mine with a razor scraper and then gave the area a light block sanding with some 150/180 grit paper in a cross-thatched pattern. This will expose any nicks or corrosion pits, or any high spots in the surface and help you get a good gasket seal. Good lighting is key and I'd also check out your upper and lower rad hoses during the swap-out, as there's no better time to replace them if needed! Good luck. Chris.

Posted on: 8/12 0:30
'If you think you can, or you think you can't - you're right!' Henry Ford.
1939 Packard Six, Model 1700
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Re: 1941 180 coolant leak
#10
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CartRich,
My only 'thoughts'/advice would be to watch how much pressure you applied with the hand pump if you DO get one. I know my cooling system is a 'zero-pressure' circuit and depending on the condition of your rad (if the '41 is also 0-press.) it might not take much positive pressure to make it leak! Re, replacing the water pump, again, a fairly involved task, I would sure confirm the leak is coming from there before getting the sockets out or phoning your mechanic. As Dave (Owen_Dyneto) says, there is a weep hole in the back of the pump and coolant coming from there should be relatively easy to confirm. If you do end up removing the pump, it's always a good idea to pull the brass water distribution tube, but only possible if the rad is removed as well. Personally, I find working on these cars, leaning over the big fenders to be physically arduous and somewhat of a PITA. I built a fairly large plywood box about 10" off the ground, and standing on that helps. Although removing the front end clip is a task, it sure makes any of the aforementioned a WHOLE LOT easier! I've had mine off twice and the second time, it only took me a couple of hours to put it back. Just MY take though.... Chris.

Posted on: 8/10 12:55
'If you think you can, or you think you can't - you're right!' Henry Ford.
1939 Packard Six, Model 1700
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