Thanks, everyone for your helpful suggestions. I appreciate your help.

1. lower stainless moulding for bottom of rear windshield;
2. driver's side lower rear quarter panel moulding which runs from back edge of driver's door to rear taillight (one piece);
3. both windshield wiper arms (complete) for same car.
4. both outside mirrors in good condition, without noticeable pits;
5. inside rearview day/night mirror (my pedestal is good).
6. outside visor over front windshield
7. entry scuff plates in excellent condition
8. rear ash tray under rear window for 2 door car ( probably all are the same).
9. Trunk latch recepticle to insert into the rectangular opening in the trunk.

Please respond with Any and all parts you have, plus price. I would be shipping to 70438, Louisiana. I can p.m. you with the phone number if you will send me a reply with you phone number.

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I bought a 1964 Studebaker G.T. Hawk with a yellow top Optima battery. If I don't crank the car once a week, the battery is weak. And it's only 10 years old, too. What can I say? My cat is older than that battery, but then, he is getting weak, too. God bless them both.

My solenoid must be a generic solenoid, as it looks larger than the one in your picture, though it does have the lever on the rear, with 3 terminals in front. The largest terminal is at 12 o'clock and receives 5 wires leading to it. The 4 o'clock terminal receives one wire, and the 3rd one goes down into the Starter motor. All terminals are on the front of the solenoid-none on top.

The largest terminal with 5 wires going into it is always hot, even with the key off. Neither of the other two terminals are ever hot, even with the key in the start position.

If you could send me an email address as a personal message I believe I can send the picture to you. It is 5,900 mb in color, but is less than 1,000 kb in black and white image. Thank you very much!

I have tried repeatedly to post the picture of my starter and solenoid, without success. Bottom line, though: it is a small solenoid with 3 terminals, the largest of which has current available regardless of whether the key is turned on, in start position, or turned OFF. There is NO current going to the starter terminal at any position of the key. I presume that means the solenoid is bad. It does not have an external lever.
Are these solenoids available through NAPA, Autozone or O'Reilly's? Or do I have to go to Kanter or someone else to find one?
If it is the ignition key switch, where would I find one of those? Thanks for your advice!

I saw your post on the rear sagging problem, but I have an issue that is more basic: My continental kit is incomplete. There is no way to hold the kit upright without something else to be added or modified. I have the hinge and the connected mounting plate to bolt the wheel to, but without something to hold the kit upright, the whole thing would flop forward and backward when accelerating or braking. I'll try to send you a picture of what has been mounted years ago.

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Thank you, Howard. My car has a 3 speed with overdrive, though I don't think the overdrive is working right now. The loud noises stopped and since then, no sound happens when I turn the key on. I will try and test it tomorrow afternoon. I hope I can figure out which it is from what you've have kindly told me. Thanks again, Howard. I'll try to take some pictures of the starter and solenoid, which are conveniently located above the steering gear for easy photographing.

I cranked my '54 Pacific and it ran fine for about 15 miles, until I had to stop and turn off the key. When I started her up again, it sounded like a tin can lid in an electric fan. I tried turning off the key, but it kept clanging even with the key turned off. So, I tried cranking it again and it did crank, but the clanking continued until it gradually stopped. The car kept running, so I dared not turn it off again, as I was on a remote highway location. When I got home-another 10-12 miles-it was running quietly and smoothly. After I turned off the key and let it sit for a few minutes, the dash warning lights came on, but the starter never did kick in again. So, it sounds like maybe the starter needs rebuilding, but I am NO Mechanic. What say you guys? Thanks!

MAXMERRIT has had the head checked out, trued, and is shipping the proper copper head gasket to go with the head. I trust them to do the right things, and I have sent them payment. The 327 head is just as old as the aluminum head, but is more durable. However, the 327 head is incorrect and apparently makes too much compression which leads to preignition problems. Damned if I do, damned if I don't. Is this a lose/lose situation, or a win/win situation. I don't know.

The vendor is Maxmerritpackard, and no, their machine shop cannot magnaflux aluminum. Their reply was a canned one, the emphasis being on their unwillingness to sell a head or other part that is not serviceable. Their 3rd party machine shop will inspect the head for cracks. I conditioned my purchase on the head being without cracks or other defects. They agreed.
Considering the 327 head not being ideal, and the 359 being oem and apparently being in good working condition, I have conditionally agreed to buy it, complete with copper head gasket, properly treated to avoid electrolysis.
Predictions: Was this a safe part to buy, or not? See Ebay Packard listing today.

"1954 359 cu. in. Packard Standard 8 aluminum cylinder head!! This is the one everyone is looking for! This is in exceptional condition!! Packard P/N 446913. If you are shopping for an aluminum head for your 359, look no further!

"All threaded areas of the head are in good condition with no stripping. If you want detailed pictures of any area of the head, we would be happy to provide that.

If you are looking to do a rebuild or restoration, this head would provide the proper foundation for your project."