Thank you for the quick response.

To answer the question about the figure 72 on pg 21: yes. But as I read your answer you think that I am having trouble with the lock cylinder. I guess that I was not clear. The cylinder is of proper fit and function. It is the "tang" that interfaces with the latch that has copious amount of extra space in the slot that it is inserted into. The slot is almost double the size of the tang.
The latch slot is located in the darkend oval in the latch directly to the left of the arrow that is pointing to the spring clip that holds the key cylinder in place in the trunk lid. The latch is operating correctly when the cylinder is removed and a flat blade screw driver is inserted and used to turn the latch. Everything has been adjusted and works with the exception of the key cylinder when installed. The key turns in the cylinder when not installed.
But my main question remains: is there supposed to be a great deal of space around the tang when installed in the latch? The tang turns to a 60 degree angle to make contact with the latch to activate it.

Is the shaft from the trunk key cylinder suppose to fit snug in the latch release or is there supposed to be a lot of slop/play? I have a latch that does not want to release. I have taken it apart and found a lot of space around the cylinder's rectangular shaft that goes into the latch release. Do I need a new cylinder?

West, Thank you for the info. I have written to him. The speedo should be in the mail by the beginning of next week.
Thank you again.

Does anyone have contact info for someone who fixes a 55 Clipper speedo with a broken shaft? or has one for sale?

Stewart, I am curious, how did you mount the trans crossmember that comes with the kit. We spent a lot of time fitting the crossmember so that everything fit without any holes being cut. We did slightly modify the bracket on the crossmember so that the original 700r4 mount fit perfectly. I will send better fotos tomorrow.

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We have had ours rebuilt twice. Did it thru Rock Auto. You send them in to be rebuilt by the same company that originally produced them. The problem is that they still leak and jump causing the car to change lanes. Next week the car goes to a different shop for a total change out of the power steering.

Stewart, We put a 700r4 in our '55 Clipper. Body wise, I do not believe there is that much of a difference between the two. Let me find our photos of the swap and I'll post them. We didn't have this problem rather a problem with the single exhaust.

But I do have a question about the shift linkage. Did you use a rod linkage or did you go with a cable. And who made the linkage for the 700r4?

Stewart, the color you chose is very close to our '55 Clipper's dash. You are doing fine work.

A previous owner had lowered the ride level of the 55 Clipper that we have and added a switch to raise just the rear of the car. I need to raise the ride level about 1.5" to 2" so that it rides better and the front tires will clear the fender openings in front. Why the previous mods is anyone's guess. I have my ideas.

I have the shop manual and it goes into adjusting the rear ride level but, I might be missing this, but does this adjust the front at the same time?

Thank you

Sorry for the delay in answering. Sometimes life gets in the way of things that need to be done.

Where is your shop? As my wife's car hass only 44k miles we would like to keep it as near orig as possible. How long does a "rebuild" of the speedo/cluster take?