SOLD - going to a home with other packard/studes in texas.

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That was my goal: give someone who wants to mess with the motor plenty of budget to do so. Finished, being a standard and not perfect and a 4 door, i'd assume it'd fetch about 10k or so. Getting it for 3k with the rebuilt ultramatic and a good start on a used engine gives someone room to not become upside down on the car, even if they had the engine rebuilt. Honestly if i get the itch for another bathtub, i'll buy the 2 door i've always loved in the future. For now, need room and the weight of this car off my shoulders as i've never gotten to it.

Will do!

*SOLD*

It's time to sell my first classic car. No time to finish repairs and get back on the road and not wanting to see it sad in the corner any longer. Asking $3,000. Located in NE Ohio (Warren 44484).

Up for sale is my 1950 Packard Standard Eight with Ultramatic transmission. I've had this car for about 10 years and drove it a ton at that time. It was a solid driving car. The original engine is long gone, I have a used 288 included with the sale that i've spun over and verified all cylinders have compression. Clear ohio title in my name. First couple pics show it together and on the road, it's been stored inside a dry, heated garage since it's been off the road. Not sure of actual miles (car is not at my house currently), but i got it at 30,xxx miles and was accurate at that time. I'm assuming i probably put 10k or so on over the years. Whatever the odometer shows is accurate though.

The body is very nice, no rot, older restoration. Needs a good clean and buff as it's been sitting inside a few years and has shop dust on it.

The interior is great, recently repainted the dash and all the metal, hand pin striping on the door inlays.

The car is still 6 volts. The tube radio works AND i have a 6 volt positive ground box that will let you connect a phone/ipod/etc input to the radio.

I had put new radial wide whites on it about 5 years ago and they have very little mileage (they're around 1k a set).

I had the ultramatic rebuilt with modern friction components, and the converter was rebuilt also.

Generator rebuilt and voltage regulator adjusted.
Have a 4bbl manifold and correct rebuilt packard carb with starter switch that was running in the car before i had issues with past engine.

Also should still have the 2bbl manifold and rebuilt carb with starter switch around.

This car needs the engine gone over, installed and accessories hooked up, new battery, and driven. You could not get one of these with this clean a body and interior for this price, it would cost 10K to get one in this shape with a running engine and even then it'd likely be a 3 spd or a tired ultramatic with who knows how much life left. Great project for someone to finish and enjoy.

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By any chance have you added an external cooler? I added 3 to mine which added a bit of oil capacity. I didn't make an anti drain-back hump in the lines on the way back to the trans. After sitting awhile, it would leak quite a but. I suspect that the trans doesn't do well a quart or two over-full and when sitting off, the fluid that's in coolers higher than the trans drains back, overfilling it. I've had the engine out for a couple years since then, but it's something i was meaning to address when it goes back together.

Just a thought.

"40 packard deluxe" 3,000 near youngstown ohio. Not mine, don't know owner, just saw on CL


youngstown.craigslist.org/cto/5666766389.html

If you're going to yank it to do the seals, rebuild all of it. Get the bands or whatever they are with the new gm materials. Get NEW BUSHINGS AND INSTALL THEM! they control pressure and shifting, etc in the trans. Lastly, replace the clutch disc in the converter.

After doing all that, if your linkage is adjusted properly, you'll have a leak free, well driving trans that will outlive you and the car. You don't want to do just seals to find out a year or so later that your clutch disc is glazing over or the bushings are wearing out.

There are some differences, if i recall, my 50 didn't have the early sand cast valve body, but a bushing was bigger or smaller somewhere and so the machine shop bore something out so the newer bushing style fit. It was an early/late production thing.

It's true that you really couldn't shave in the finish of these cars when they were new...you really can't in your ordinary car now.

I find it strange that they wanted to do your whole fender. Collision shops blend into existing clear in the panels every day. single stage though, you really should be painting to a seam or panel edge or something, it's tougher to do spot touch ups without it showing. Putting clear over it doesn't help with that, just adds to the shine and gives you something to sand/buff without worrying about getting too far into the paint.

Made it this far tonight.

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We recently did my truck in dupont centari single stage, it's amazing. With solid colors you can sand and buff it, and it has UV protection in it. Even better, a neat trick we tried and it worked was to use nason's all over clear or high image clear over it, 3ish coats, as it gets tacky. Then you can buff and sand the clear, which has more UV in it. SS is a durable paint too, and the clear is added insurance for buffing, etc. Cheap insurance, and gives you something to work with to really make it shine.

Doing it this way, you'd add about $200 in materials to the car project to add the clear if you sprayed the whole car at once. It looks like a deep color, it's easy to work with, and it looks impressive. I'm very pleased how it came out.

We did it a piece at a time over a year and some of the finish was kind of orange peely depending on humidity, etc. After clear, i blocked everything 1500 with the foam pool noodle looking thing, then DA with 3m/interface pad:

1000
1500
3000
5000

Then buff with white disc/white cream, black disc, purplish cream, blue disc, blue cream. Everything matches, everything gorgeous.

The truck appraised very high, and you can read a book of the smallest print against it. The prep work and finish work make any finish amazing of course. The ONLY downside to SS is that it's harder to repair errors vs basecoat, where you can fix a lot before clear goes on.

With SS, if you don't clear when the paint is wet, you have to sand it all like 800-1000 grit to get the clear to stick well.

Seriously, these pics don't even do it justice, i don't regret going SS at all.

Build thread:

67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=550931&page=16

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