I have an erratic power window on the pass side of my 56 Caribbean h/t.- works at times & then may do nothing on either switch. The problem seems to be in the motor, as power is at the switch. The manual says there is a lock on the arm from the gear, and I have a couple of spares that have this lock set-up, but my Caribb has what looks like a big rivet where the pin & lock should be. I don't know if someone replaced the original pin with a rivet before I bought the car, but it looks original as opposed to a home fix. As a result, I haven't been able to remove the motor to try to determine what's going on. Any ideas? { I guess I could remove motor & arms that connect to the window base as a unit}

Thanks to all who answered. I was thinking of removing the pan- engine is in the car so not much fun, but it looks like that's my only option.

I have a 1956 Executive with a stuck engine. Car was driven into storage many years ago and left. Had oil in engine & anti-freeze. I tried different penetrants in the cylinders with no luck. I can move the ring gear slightly- maybe 1/8-1/4" max, but no movement on pistons. I now have heads removed and have been soaking piston tops with PB blaster and hitting them with hammer on wooden block. Article on you tube claims wood will not transfer jolt to the pistons- it says to use a metal pipe. I have been doing that but no luck. Don't want to hit too hard in case of breaking a piston. Inside of engine [cylinder walls] look to be in great condition, but no movement in pistons. Anyone have any suggestions that I may try? Thanks.

Any suggestions as to how best to ground front park lights to body? My housings are not in great condition and I would like to run dedicated grounds, but am unsure as to the best way to attach ground wire to the light sockets. Thanks. Clifford

Just got my Caribbean back from body/paint shop. Before I brought it to the shop, I had installed a 2 prong brake light switch & 5 pin relay. Brake lights worked fine, as did t/l. I had cut wires to original 3 prong switch & connected the blue wire from relay connection #30 into the purple wire from 7.5 amp fuse, black wire from connection #85 into the dk. green wire from brake lights, and red wire from connection 87a into lt. green wire for t/l switch, white wire from connection 86 to clean ground. Didn't connect yellow wire from connection #87 to anything. I believe this is all done as per instructions from my previous post. As I drove car to body shop, my wife was following to bring me home, and she said brake lights worked fine, but signals were doing strange things [not sure exactly what, but weren't working as they should]. Inside the car, when I would put signal light on, indicator on dash would light but no flash. Car is now home- no signal lights and no indicator lights working. Fuse & flasher both seem to be ok. This may have nothing to do with installing new 2 prong switch & relay, but signal lights had always worked fine before. Any ideas?

Sorry for the delay in responding, but other projects took priority. Just bought a 2 prong stop light switch & 5 pin relay & installed them according to the diagram provided. Everything working as it should. Thanks for the help.

Can someone tell me the supplier & part number of the 3 prong VW stop light switch that can be used on 56 torsion level cars. Also, if a 2 prong switch is used, I assume power wire & wire for torsion level go to one contact, & wire for brake light to the second, and a relay is installed in the wire for torsion level- is this correct, & what should I use for relay? Thanks,
Clifford