Thank you Ross & JWL ... I try to do my best and bring this car back on the street into best and nerly oiginal condition to his 100th birthsday next year. If my wife give me the time, I´ll post later a full restauration report here on PI.
Karl

....just a short update and another little step to finish the car.
Distributor rebuild with: ……
NOS Cap
NOS Rotor
NOS Dual Points
New Shaft Bearing
New flat Condenser into the Condenser Box (for a nice original look)
Distributor Housing Shaft reamed off for 2 new sintered Bronze-Bearings (Bushings?)

Karl

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Hallo Mike, schau mal in Deine Box.

After restoration of my Dual Point Distributor for my 1924 6 Volt 8 Zylinder Serie 1 Engine... I need all Information about the adjustment. Points gap, closing braket .. and where I´ve specialy to looking for. Somebody can help me please.
Karl

That would be my way to fix this problem.
Why the screws come out of the wood bows … because the wood is now 87 years old dry and the whole top frame is “flexible” and shaking and rattle all the time if the car is running.
There is no way that screws in original size will hold the metal frame piece properly into the wood.
So … I use only stainless steal and select the next size of diameter. Over here in Germany the size grows up by 0.5mm. That’s perfect for this problem. But the head of the shrew has a bigger diameter which will not fit into the funnel (?) hole. So I use the lathe (which everybody has in his basement … I hope) and make the hut the same size like the original one. Then I polish the hut on my polishing stand (which also everybody has in his basement or garage)
Now the screw will sit strong into the old wood hole and if you put a little (!!!) drop of this special PU glue “Titebond” on the tip of the thread.
The only what additional is to do … open the diameter of the hole into the top frame piece. DON`T try to do this with a drill in a drill machine by hand. If you try this … the drill will pull you very fast to the metal right trough the wood and the hood fabric. Use a “Dremel” or a drill stop tool as you see it into the pictures.
Hope this is helpful …
Karl
And … have fun on my English grammar.

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For all Packard Friends of my 1924 Sport Phaeton who ask for pictures … here the current situation of restauration.
After round about 300 hours ... the bodywork is done. All gaps between doors and body … specially the factory made terrible curves between rear doors and fenders lined up now. The running boards are original rebuild. The wrong hood sides … (somebody cut off the lower parts from a Touring hood which are 4 inch higher so he also cut off all bracings which hold the hood sides straight) … are now original rebuild. Engine and gearbox are temporary installed because it is important to have enough weight on the frame. The frame looks very heavy and stabile …. but if you lift the car on a 4-arm car hoist … the door gaps open on top up to 5mm. The frame is really weak. So better there is the whole weight on the car like the car is finished and in drivable condition. Of course, you can adjust the body if you put shims between body and frame … but this can end in a "never ending story".
Now I have to start the work I hate more than anything else. Putty and sanding …. putty and sanding … putty and sanding … I´ll start this work in spring. In the meantime, I´ll finish the restauration of fuel tank an carburetor and build stainlessteel muffler in original style/construction ( min. 2mm thick) to start the Engine before the final installation.
Karl

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1929PG,thanks again for answer.
I´ve a LOT of pictures from Packards Engineroom early 20th and 30. I´ll paint the side of the hood in dark/dark red. underneath the top of the hood black.The top of the hood black like the whole area
above the side molding include the sidemolding self. So ... the car will be Black/Dark Red/Black. My preferred color
for the firewall is dark red but I´m not 100% sure till now.
Karl

.. thanks for answer 1929 PG.
I specialy mean the hood underside and the hoodside inside.
Karl

...are this rules also valid for cars from 1924 ... ?

... by the way ... does sombody know if the Battery-Box on the 1924 Phaeton was aluminum polished or painted gloss black?
The lid should be aluminum ... not painted ?

Karl