Feedback for the stoplight fault. I bought a replacement indicator switch but before removing the original compared the electrical functions with the new and found they were the same! So concluded the switch was fine so left it in place and so began a further search. Eventually I came to the stoplight pressure switch, thoroughly cleaned the three terminals and associated connectors and success, I had both stoplights working! Why only one stoplight worked before the switch connections were cleaned I can only assume was the result of slightly more resistance in one lamp than the other? Anyway lesson learnt, always check the obvious things before buying replacement parts.

Thanks to all for your help.

Thanks for your advice, would you mind giving the contact details of the company that provides this replacement kit. I live in the U.K.

Today I've had a go at fixing the stoplight problem. Before removing the original turn signal switch I compared its behaviour with the new one and could find no difference so I am now thinking the turn signal switch is ok. Simply checking the operation of the indicators and stoplights revealled the indicators fine but now both stoplights don't work. Checked for power at the stoplight switch and all appears ok but nothing on the output to the turn signal switch so I suspect this is faulty but not sure if this could have been the reason for the original faulty single stoplight ?
Can the stoplight switch be stripped and contacts cleaned? If the switch is replaced do the brakes need to be bled after, I.e does removal break into the hydraulic line?

Thanks Howard. My car does not have AC. I believe you are correct about the horn wire having the single ring connector, I spotted this last time I had the steering wheel off. I will check out the male/female plug once I get started on the switch replacement.

I have purchased a replacement direction indicator switch but I am unfamiliar with the terminals already soldered to the ends of the wiring loom, being a plain cylindrical form, approximately 1/8" diameter by 1/2" long. I have not seen this type of terminal in th UK. Are they intended to fit into some form of terminal block fixed to the main loom or are they common in the US for general purpose joining of cables? I do not have easy accesss to the car as it is in storage so cannnot check what's already there conveniently, so am trying to get all things necessary to complete the job in order before I take it out of storage.

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Please see photos of broken casing. The damage was found recently whilst the car was being checked over in a local garage. I haven't seen the damage myself and do not have access to a lift.

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Having read and re-read the manual describing the torsion level system. My understanding is that normal suspension movements of the rear load arms will induce some rotary motion to the compensator bars and thus the compensator links, which will all be reacted at the compensator itself. So despite this being none operational in my car, it will still be subject to loading so it's secure attachment to the car essential. I would appreciate any sanity check of my analysis, thanks.

Many thanks guys for all the information.

Hi All,
I am slowly working through my '55 400, bought in April 2017 here in the U.K.
The TL compensator gearbox has one cracked mounting lug and the motor cables have been disconnected. All like this when I got it. With the compensator out of action, what are the implications of continuing to use the car? Does the suspension system rely on rigidity at the compensator? Does removal of the compensator for repairs require the suspension to be 'locked' with the factory tool? These cars are very rare in the U.K. so getting assistance from knowledgeable specialists appears to be difficult. Thanks for any advice offered.