Was looking for the fender skirts and found them in my shed! I must have put them there a few years ago and forgot!
While driving the Packard the speedometer quit working. I unplugged the cable, lifted the rear wheels and started the car and then put it in gear. The cable was making a noise and I couldn't see anything sticking out of the cable. How do I pull the speedometer out? It's either the cable or the speedometer, because the cable is spinning when in gear.

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My wife makes me buy 4 door cars. I asked why and she said, "For the grandkids." I didn't argue.

I cleaned up the tail light housing and plugged the fixture back in. The lights are nice and bright, that includes the tail lights, brake lights and turn signals. I just had a corroded tail light housing that was messing up the ground.
I bought new tires, put on the hubcaps, vacuumed the interior, washed windows and got ready to go for a drive. I sprayed carburetor cleaner in the carburetor and it started just fine. When the carburetor cleaner was used up, the fuel filter was empty and the car shut off. I tried to restart it and the battery died!
I used the battery from a different car that hasn't been used in 4 years and the car started right up. Yea!
Now to fix some other things I haven't noticed are: dashboard lights are not working, the brakes squeal when applied, and the clutch is making a noise when engine is running with the transmission in nuetral and clutch out.
I got to drive it a little and even went to fill the tank. It rides nice, it is hot here in Phoenix. It was down to 107F at 8pm when I was driving it.

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I have a 1955 Clipper Custom, I live in Phoenix, Az. I experience vapor lock when the temperature is over 95F. There has been a lot of talk here on this website about vapor lock. Today's gas is to blame. All I know is that I use a mechanical fuel pump until I experience vapor lock and then I turn on my electric fuel pump. I am on my 2nd electric fuel pump. I have been driving my car for over 20 years and have put over 70,000 miles on it. I don't know everything, but I have experienced vapor lock. At over 110F, I will drive my Clipper, my wife will not be in the car, and the electric fuel pump is on. Good luck and get an electric fuel pump, put it by the gas tank. But continue to use the mechanical fuel pump.
I also use a Chrysler mechanical fuel pump, it isn't affected by today's fuel. Look in the Parts Cross-Reference and find it there.

Yes, I used the Pertronix Ignitor on my 1940 160 Touring Sedan. I liked it. It ran great until it burned up. I used the stock coil.
With no gas in my carburetor, the engine kept cranking until it had gas and would start. With gas in the carburetor, the engine would start real easy. With all the cranking, the Ignitor got hot and burned up.
I had the same problem with my 1955 Packard Clipper.
Both ran for a few years, 3,000 (40 Packard) to 30,000 miles (55 Clipper) before they both burned up. Luckily I was at home.
If your carburetor always has gas in it, then do it.

Thanks Howard. I will check the trunk floor.
With the brakes done, I checked the brake lights and they didn't work. I jumpered the brake wires and the left comes on but not the right side. We checked the wiring, changed the light bulb and that didn't fix it. We wiggled the light socket and the light works as long as you hold it.
Any suggestions?
I did go to NAPA to buy a 2 prong brake light switch.

Just got new rear brake shoes from Kanter. I put them on and put the right front new shoes on. I adjusted the brake shoes and the brake pedal is where it should be. I ran out of time so I'll have to put on the left front new brake shoes next week. The brake shoes I pulled off were in good shape, they weren't adjusted at all! I shouldn't have to replace the brake shoes for years, but I'll have a good spare set!
Now the spare tire well is rusted, what caused the leak? The rear window or the rubber around the trunk?
Where do I get a spare tire well to fix or replace the rusted one. Or can a good body shop fix it?

Found the problem with the gear shift sticking. I sprayed all joint connections with lubricant and it no longer sticks!
I got to do a maiden drive! It was only down the block and around the cul-de-sac. But I enjoyed it!
The brakes stop the car but they are near the floor. I bled the brakes with no change. I asked around and they said the brakes need adjusting.
I still don't know why the battery is draining, someone said it could be the clock, so remove the fuse and try that.
It's getting closer to driving.

Got the carburetor back, the bolt that goes to the fuel screen had teflon tape on it and a piece came off and got stuck in the float so the gas could not shut off!
Ran engine for 10 minutes and it got hot, so I shut it off. Let it cool down and reran it for 10 minutes, it ran fine.
Came back a week later and the battery is dead! I put my back up battery in and the engine started fine. I don't know what drained the battery, but we tried to turn on the headlights and I had them on once but I don't know how. When I push the headlight button, nothing happens now.
I also think I can not go from R-1 gear to the 2-3 gear with the shifter.
Then I notice a clicking noise on the right rear brake when the brakes are applied. I just rebled the brakes and there was some air in the system.
So I have a few projects to do before I can drive this car.
Thank you for your help.

I put 2 gallons of gas in the empty gas tank and started the engine again.
It ran great until the carburetor started spewing gas! So I shut it off.
The carburetor is in a shop getting checked out. I had it rebuilt 3 years ago and I'm finally using it.
When I get the carburetor back, I'll reinstall it and run it. I have heard let it run at 2000 rpm for 2 hours to break in the cam and motor.
Thank for all your help getting this running. I'm excited!