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Board index » All Posts (GaryBarber)




Re: Looking for two 19” 1930 740 wire wheels
#1
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GaryinSC
Sent

Posted on: 11/23 12:05
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Re: Looking for two 19” 1930 740 wire wheels
#2
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GaryinSC
Inside hub photo

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jpg  Wheels 1.jpg (232.24 KB)
165673_655eae329f485.jpg 2048X1536 px

Posted on: 11/22 20:43
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Re: Looking for two 19” 1930 740 wire wheels
#3
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GaryinSC
Inside hub ( hub cap ) 4 5/8" see photos wheels are now powder coated other photos are older. Currently mounted with old Coker Classic tires.

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jpg  Wheels 2.jpg (298.99 KB)
165673_655eade98dd27.jpg 1920X1440 px

Posted on: 11/22 20:42
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Re: 1924 Sport
#4
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GaryinSC
Karl: You might call Dixie Exhaust in Charlotte NC and see if he has prints. He has a lot of old car exhaust prints. He built my exhaust system for my 32/ 901 and it was a direct match.

Posted on: 11/22 8:38
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Re: Starting a 1929 Packard 8 with straight 8 and Detroit Lubricator Carb.
#5
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GaryinSC
I agree starting fluid is preferable to direct gas in the head. I had a similar problem with my 32 however I had the new Packard Carbs Detroit Lubricator 51 installed and it still was hard to start even with an electric fuel pump. The solution was that I had low compression mostly due to stuck valves but later found out cylinders were also out of round and tapered. You say the car runs good once it starts and mine did too but had 40 to 60 lbs of head pressure which is low even for these low compression engines like our straight 8's. I suspect no fuel is getting in the carb bowl or not feeding up into the combustion chamber hence your dry plugs. It will only pull fuel when it gets enough rpm's which you get from the direct gas feed into the head. You might check head pressure which should be around 80 lbs. Also the rpm's of the starter are important. I would check the battery and cables as that 6v starter needs all you got to spin the starter at the necessary rpm's to start these engines. It can make a big difference if you do not have large 0 or 00 size batteries cables for both power and ground. The engine just may not be turning fast enough to pull the gas up to the valves.

Posted on: 11/20 21:04
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Re: Looking for two 19” 1930 740 wire wheels
#6
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GaryinSC
Not sure if this got resolved but I have 2 19" rims with 7 bolt hubs. I understand they are the same hubs used on 29 Packard with 20' wheels. I had these in my side mounts and they looked good. Will sell for $ 200 ea. with lock rings. I was told these were for a 29 Hudson but they used the same hubs as Packard 7 bolt.

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jpg  wheels-lock rings.jpg (477.11 KB)
165673_655b6761986ea.jpg 720X1280 px

Posted on: 11/20 9:04
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Re: 1929 front spring broken
#7
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GaryinSC
Eaton did a great job for me. They would need both springs to get them to be equal. Unfortunately they did not have specs for my 32 but it sits level now so totally satisfied with their work. Not really expensive either in my opinion.

Posted on: 11/15 10:04
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Re: 1937 120 Recommendation for Exhaust System?
#8
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GaryinSC
Dixie Exhaust in Charlotte NC. He did my 32 901 for a perfect fit. He was at Hershey a few years ago. His price was very competitive and done quickly.

Posted on: 11/7 19:03
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Re: 1932 901 Sloppy Steering
#9
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GaryinSC
The Packard drag link tube is a bit different than the Dodge but along the same lines. The Packard one has a coil spring inside to keep tension on the ball and adjusted by the large screw in the end.

Posted on: 10/14 10:37
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Re: 1932 901 Sloppy Steering
#10
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GaryinSC
Marty: You can adjust the steering gear on your car by tightening the thrust bearing nut. The manual only shows the 646 but the 901 has a pinch bolt that you must loosen first. Take care when tightening the nut as too much adjustment will cause stiff movement. I also had to tighten the the sector shaft nut which is hard to get to. I used a 16in. adjustable wrench to get to it. You can also tighten up the steering tubes. At each end there is a cotter and large adjustment screw. Use a large straight blade screwdriver to turn it in some and replace the cotter with the cotter going in the screw slot to keep it from backing out. Also I use StaLube 140 gear oil in the steering box, trans, and differential. The manual calls for Witmers No 52 which I understand to be 160 wt. gear oil which is no longer available so the 140 seems to be OK. It is good for yellow metals which our cars contain in many places. You can PM me if you need to talk as there are many things we have in common with these cars.

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jpg  Steering Gear.jpg (181.51 KB)
165673_6526b0360cc49.jpg 1440X1920 px

Posted on: 10/11 9:24
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