I just did my 9th series car which should be the same as yours. I left the wheel mounted to the car, raised the tire off the ground about an inch. Then I loosened the jam nut about two turns and then hit the tire from the back side with a heavy hammer, then spun the wheel 180 degrees and hit it again and the drum moved off the taper a bit. Then remove the wheel remove the jam nut and pull the drum free of the taper. Once the drum is off remember to grease both the inter and outer axle bearings which are frequently neglected on these cars. This is done by removing the small screw on the inner hub and the small bolt behind the brake back plate. A standard grease gun is used by removing the zerk fitting and thread the grease gun hose directly into the screw thread. Also apply a very light coat of oil ( not grease ) to the taper before reinstalling the drum. This will help if removal is needed in the future. PM me if you need more info.

Caps and points etc are available from Max Merritt or Kanter. But it will knock all the bumps off your Visa card to get them.

Sorry I thought you were referring to the upper part of the cap were the wires enter. Yes you could pry on the bottom part at the positioning tab by inserting a thin screw driver. I might also have run a razor knife around the rim to break up the rust. I assume this car was not running with the looks of those points ?

I would not try prying it. I would twist it first. I would also wiggle those wires a bit to see if they are really causing the top to stick. The plastic on those wires may have melted a bit. New wires are in order for sure. None appear to be stock.

Does anyone know if this switch is reproduced ? Mine is missing and I have seen other cars that way too. Doesn't seem like it would be that difficult to reproduce it.

Yes I am told Coker owns those molds also.

I have done this many times with a spoon type tire iron I purchased from Harbor Freight. I use two of them one to support and move around the ring and the other to pry it off. Going back on I walk around the rim and stomp the ring back down with heavy boots. There is a couple of YouTube videos on this method. These can be dangerous to inflate however a 40 lb pressure car tire and a 100 lb truck tire are not the same. I point the tire at the wall when reinflating them in 10 lb increments. I also pound on the ring with a rubber mallet just to make sure the ring is seated properly. I think people have problems with these rims because they use a tire that is not specifically made for a lock ring installation. One tire that works well is the Firestone Balloon tire. As they inflate they push the ring into the slot. The wrong tire may push the ring outwards causing the ring to come off. I understand these are still made in the original molds used in the 30's.

Sent

Inside hub photo

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Inside hub ( hub cap ) 4 5/8" see photos wheels are now powder coated other photos are older. Currently mounted with old Coker Classic tires.

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