Yes getting same warning

Yes, I feel better now I know that it is locked in the open position. Thank you

My exhaust manifold is missing the exhaust manifold riser weight and did not permit the flapper to open resulting in the insulator spacer that Max Merritt sells between the carburetor to intake manifold to melt, the spring holds the flapper in the closed position and when the spring expands the weight on opposite end of the shaft provides enough weight to open the flapper all the way, so what is my question? I just removed the spring and turned the shaft in the rotation that moves the shaft to the open position which is clockwise on the weighted end of the shaft, my question is when in this position is the flapper in the fully open position? the only way to see the flapper is to remove the pipe or entire intake manifold and I really do not want to do that.

Very Interesting, I have been wrenching on Model T & A Fords for years and old Henry had a Torque setting for every engine nut & bolt, would have thought Packard would have done the same especially with their reputation of high build standards. Not having a uniform fastener setting could be the reason for failure of the intake exhaust gasket, I will use the Model A setting 35 LBS this way they will be uniform, sincerely do thank you for the information I have been spending so much time talking and emailing people about this

One more question; next week I am installing 750 X 16 steel belted radials, just not possible to get 700 X 16 is this going to be a problem?????

thank you so very much, What is the torque setting? and torque is so important, the manual has absolutely zero references to the intake/exhaust removal install procedure. I realize that I need to remove the inner splash shield for access and with that shield in place it is impossible to access the manifold bolts so I assume just do not re-install till I re-torque?

My car (1937 120C) has a leaking exhaust intake manifold gasket and it seems to be a no-brainer on removing and replacing the gasket but would someone share with me anything I should know before I start the repair?

The previous owner was my Friend "Bill" and he only drove the car to local shows, only put 4K on the car in twenty years! So the car never really was used, But I drive my cars, but maintain them well and plan on driving this car for longer distances 100 miles or more so need to get her very road worthy.

The previous owner was my Friend "Bill" and he only drove the car to local shows, only put 4K on the car in twenty years! So the car never really was used, But I drive my cars, but maintain them well and plan on driving this car for longer distances 100 miles or more so need to get her very road worthy.

I do my own wrenching and actually, enjoy it! I have completely re-built many Model A Fords and so far find the Packard to be easy to work on and WOW what quality!.

Yesterday I installed new Cap, Rotor, Points, Wires & plugs and then checked timing "Was right on" then adjusted the Carburetor. Took the car for a spin and she ran super, cruises at 55 comfortably.

Only issues so far that I need feedback on; took my Wife for a ride yesterday and stopped at the Grocery Store so she could pick up something, I intentionally let the car idle waiting for her for about 15 minutes, the temperature never went above 165 and oil pressure heald at 26 but when I went to leave she ran terrible! like she was starving for fuel? seemed to smooth out after a mile but still had a miss? could this just be a fuel vapor issue? or is this normal? one other item is an exhaust manifold gasket leak and which I plan on pulling the manifold to replace, any suggestions about how to replace? use sealant? any advice is always apppreciated. attached some more pictures of my Beautiful Gal!

Attach file:

---

  (313.11 KB)


  (370.47 KB)


  (479.07 KB)


  (294.71 KB)


  (414.25 KB)


  (248.67 KB)