Just a follow up on the foaming in the radiator and lost of radiator fluid. Head gasket torque is still great. The foaming came back at temperatures in the 80s with engine temperature in the 180f range with loss of coolant from the overflow tube. A leak test of the radiator using blue fluid did not show a combustion gas leak. I read a post on a Studebaker website about cutting antifreeze levels down to reduce foaming. So I cut down to 17 percent ethylene glycol with R.O. water and the 2 oz per gallon of royal purple purple ice for additional corrosion protection. I drove it and it still foamed some but not as bad. I added then to tablespoons of hot tub antifoam product and it stopped the foaming right away and it hasn't come back. I am also now not losing fluid from the radiator. Thought I would update this. Thanks James

Hello,

Had a question was there a difference in the radiator outlet size between a 37 and 38 for the six cylinder? Was the outlet 1.5 inches or 1.75 inches.

I have a 38 engine in my 37 115 and was going to replace my outlet radiator tubing. The radiator is a 37 year model.

Thanks

James

Thanks will do, great suggestion to all

Thanks all for advice I was going to update all, I cleaned out so much crud from the engine block by flushing water in and draining it out from the lower block drain plug above the starter. After that I took it to the mechanic and he replaced the head gasket and lightly flat bar sanded the head and block. Valves looked good so put it went all back together and no more foam and bubbling in the radiator. I attached pictures for others that might be trying to troubleshoot in the future. The radiator shows car running with no bubbles or foam, other picture shows some of the large chunks of crud that came out of the engine block. The other picture shows finer debris that came out of the block.

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Hi

Thanks for the response, but your link goes to a tile website, go you have another link or name of product

Thanks

James

Hello,

I am replacing my head gasket and have two gaskets to choose from I have a copper and steel gasket with a metal inside core which is from Best vs a copper and steel gasket with the fiber matrix core. Is one better than the other from anyone's experieces?

Also I have heard to be careful machining the head excessively so that the valves don't hit the top of the combustion chamber of the head. Does anyone have a measurement for amount of material to leave as a minimum clearance for the this area? That is if the head needs to be resurfaced some to remove any imperfections.

Also is any copper head gasket sealing spray better than others in preparing the gasket before install?

Thanks

James

Thanks for all the advice, I am waiting for my mechanic to have time to replace the head gasket but I did flush the block and radiator. I also used a magnet to get the large chunks of scale/rust out of the top tubes of the radiator. I also used 1 round of thermocure to get ride of the rust followed by large amounts of flushing. I followed that up with liquidmoly radiator cleaner and then another round of evaporust. I didn't pull the freeze plugs as I was going to let my mechanic do that but this is the picture from the blocks drain plug by the starter. The flushes are running clear now no additional rust or lime/scale coming out. My question does it need more work or should I still remove the frost plugs. Thanks. James

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Understood, the standard nut and washer is below the chrome cap cover, I have previously checked the toqure on the head studs and they where tighten to 65 ft lbs.

Thanks

James

The chrome nuts are just chrome caps for the real original nuts that are below them. Thanks James

Also just noticed this, what I think is oil at head gasket area, I just repainted the engine to touch up the paint job from 26 years ago that was about a month ago. Driven about 130 miles since repaint. Any thoughts?

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