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Board index » All Posts (jpvincent)




Re: 1950 Custom 8 Electric Fuel Pump
#1
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

J-P
As far as the filters are concerned, I put new external filters, 100micron from the gas tank and 40micron just before the carburetor and bypass the mechanical pump with an electric fuel pump. However, the vacuum line out of the mechanical pump are still connected and works well to power the windshield wipers.
Thank you for your response. It is much appreciated.

Posted on: 2022/8/21 20:01
J-P
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Re: 1950 Custom 8 Electric Fuel Pump
#2
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

J-P
Thank you very much for taking the time to respond and for your suggestion. I will check tomorrow how to connect the pump with a wire behind the dashboard.

Posted on: 2022/8/21 19:57
J-P
 Top 


1950 Custom 8 Electric Fuel Pump
#3
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

J-P
Hello,
My 1950 Custom 8 Packard was losing power when I needed it going up hill mainly.
After many phone calls, reading suggestions, rebuilding the mechanical fuel pump, the carburetor (twice), replacing the coil, rebuilding the distributor, replacing the distributor shaft bushing, adjusting the points to .017, replacing the filters, draining the fuel tank, replacing most of the fuel line with new line material, adding an electric fuel pump with a regulator adjusted at 5psi in line with the mechanical pump and also by-passing the mechanical pump, the car was still losing power when I needed it....
All fuel pressure measured ok. All vacuum measured ok at idle, but went down under power...the issue was a vacuum leak at the connection of the vacuum tube/carburetor base which drives and warms the choke. The other side of the tube connects to the manifold.
My mechanic disconnected the tube, and plug the carburetor choke hole.
At the same time he bypassed the mechanical pump using the electric one.
So far, after 200miles going up and down hill (including steep hills), the car runs very well and pulls really good when I need power.
However, as I have been testing the electric pump set up, it is still powered by an on/off toggle switch. So, I have to make sure that I turn the pump power off when I switch the engine off....
Is there an easy way/place beside connecting directly to the ignition switch on the dashboard to connect the pump so it shuts off when I shut the engine off?
Thank you for your suggestions.
J-P

Posted on: 2022/8/21 10:04
J-P
 Top 


Location of No. 1 Piston?
#4
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

J-P
Good evening,
In another topic I talked about the oil leaks on my 356cu engine. Besides the rear main bearing leak, I also have a leak from the oil pump. In the manual, before removing the oil pump, the No 1 piston should be 6 degrees before TDC.
Which one is No 1 piston? The one next to the fan, or the one next to the firewall?
Thank you for you assistance.

Posted on: 2020/8/27 21:18
J-P
 Top 


Re: 356cu rear main bearing replacement
#5
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

J-P
Thank you Magnus,
It is something to consider indeed.

Posted on: 2020/8/27 20:52
J-P
 Top 


Re: 356cu rear main bearing replacement
#6
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

J-P
Hi Magnus,
Thank you for your message.
Yes your idea is something to consider. But I think that for the time being, I will leave it as is and keep a drip pan under the car unless the leak gets worse. I will watch it carefully.
Have a good day.

Posted on: 2020/8/26 10:36
J-P
 Top 


Re: 356cu rear main bearing replacement
#7
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

J-P
Hi Fish'n Jim,
Thank you for your message. You are right before jumping on a big expense and potentially still have a leak, I assessed the leak. It is really more of a nuisance than a big leak. I took a picture of the leak after 4 days sitting in the garage and after running for about 80 miles.
I think I am going to leave it asnits and keep a drip pan under the car.
Have a good day.

Posted on: 2020/8/26 10:32
J-P
 Top 


Re: 356cu rear main bearing replacement
#8
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

J-P
Thank you Owen and ptv for your knowledge of the process.
I think Max Merritt or Kanter could probably get the rope seal, but the replacement of it looks like a major task...

Posted on: 2020/8/24 21:34
J-P
 Top 


Re: 356cu rear main bearing replacement
#9
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

J-P
Dell,
Thank you for your advice. From what I read and saw on my car, I agree with you. This job is not for me. However, if a professional mechanic does the job, does the engine has to come out? or can it be done by removing the oil pan?

Posted on: 2020/8/24 20:25
J-P
 Top 


356cu rear main bearing replacement
#10
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

J-P
Good evening,
I have a 1950 Custom TS with a 356cu engine. Over the years the Ultramatic transmission was replaced by what I identified as a Torqueflite.
The engine rear main bearing leaks.
What is the best way, $ economically to replace the seal?
Does the engine has to be pulled out?
Can it be accessed by removing only the oil pan?
Can it be accessed by removing the transmission and the torque converter?
I welcome any advice, suggestions, recommendations.
Also on the block of my engine the casting by the distributor has the number 226 or 228 (hard to read). Does anyone have an idea of what it means?
Thank you for your help.

Posted on: 2020/8/23 21:07
J-P
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