Once I got them set up, I had no performance issues with the dual carburetor setup on my '56 Caribbean, it was thoroughly satisfactory. And you should expect the same result.

The forged 374 crankshafts were manufactured at Studebaker as service replacement stock as the original spare inventory stock was depleted.

The forward end of the generator armature is splined. Simply pull it straight rearwards to remove, leaving the bronze adapter securely in place. Note the generator has no forward armature support bearing.

If you're going to bench-test the generator, you'll need the special Owen-Dyneto armature support device or have the work done by someone who has it, for example Jason at AER, or improvise something.

The illustrations in the 1933-36 Parts List may be helpful to you.

To maintain the generator drive in position, the bronze adapter plate between the generator and the timing chain case MUST remain in place as you slide the generator back and out.

I was fortunate to have owned both 22nd and 23rd Series Custom 8 sedans, beautifully furnished cars and really fine road manners. I had the 23rd Series first, during college. It was a low-mileage ex-funeral service car purchased for $85 in 1960 from Paviol's Garage in Carlisle, PA.

Ultramatic Drive was standard equipment for the 23rd Series Custom 8s.

I don't believe it's possible anymore do redo the interior of these cars to equal their original elegance, both the lovely shadow cloth wool broadcloth and the Mosstred carpet materials are NLA.

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The brown "felt" is an approximate match in color to the Roman Copper paint, code S.

It has been suggested to me that your problem may be the result of rust particles in the fuel supply. When the engine is started they begin to collect at and choke off the pump's inlet filter screen, gradually accumulating and reducing the fuel flow until the engine stalls from lack of fuel. Then, as the pump suction ceases with the engine not running, the rust particles gradually drop from the screen, allowing the cycle to repeat. Courtesy of Fred Kanter who says he has experienced exactly this scenario.

About 0.400".

Confirm that the pump was installed with the correct spacer block/insulator between the pump flange and the crankcase casting? This is obviously critical to the stroke of the diaphragms. I believe I have a spare I could measure for you if need be. Same insulator/spacer used on all 1933-1936 8-cylinder motors.

Unsure about 1936, 1934 version is two-piece (excluding the locking hardware).