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Board index » All Posts (itsaclipper)




Re: Stewart
#1
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d c
Looking good. On the cluster-have you had one of the speedo rebuilt or tested? Have you plans to replace the gauge voltage regulator with a new original style or a solid state? These are very hard to access after all is installed and the car is back on the road. If your orig speedo ad the needle broken it may have had the dreaded needle bounce these are prone to. Test your replacement with a cordless drill and a full length speedo cable to check for bounce. Pay careful attention to dust,rust, dried lube on the odometer gears. Clean all with wd40 and tooth brush carefully without staining odometer barrels.

Posted on: 8/2 11:21
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Re: Rubber valve stems
#2
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I was sent these by the tire supplier for the radials going on a 55 at the time. They were wrong for those rims. Did Packard have two sizes in 55? A running change ? They have an Argo # on bottom and a tr#. someone in an above post mentioned 5/8 or .625 size hole. What are the exact hole sizes because these measured with a dial caliper seem to be .590 at the sealing surface and would be loose in that hole. Is I understand it- tubeless stems need to be lubed up and pulled in the hole with a snug fit to create the seal. These are about 1 inch sealing surface to tip. I would donate to anyone who would pay shipping here in the US. I am not able to ship outside the continuous 48. Pics won’t seem to upload

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Posted on: 7/17 10:12
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Re: Non Packard transmission replacements
#3
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BTW. The crank adapter on that kit looks like it is an inch and a half or two inches deep. As I recall the V8 engine has a deep flange cast into it as part of the bell housing and this spacer depth required due to this spacing of a GM (or any) trans further away from rear of crank. As such-any rust,nicks,debris,bending,or out of true of the Packard crank flange will be multiplied by the length of this spacer. Another wobble, vibration threat.

Posted on: 7/4 18:30
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
#4
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Mmm. Sounds fishy. Water should flow through the core just by gravity(pouring). Either it’s clogged or has been plugged intentionally. This is not the way to test for leak. If water has been verified to flow pouring through, the unit would have a plug on one end and the other a hose adapter(s) attached where pressurized air from your compressor (low press) about 10-12 lb applied and the unit submerged in a lg plastic storage bin filled with water. This is in fact the way radiator shops tested whole rads for leaks-in their lg tank. Good luck.

Posted on: 7/4 18:17
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Re: Non Packard transmission replacements
#5
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Just a few words on transmission to centerline of crankshaft alignment and vibration/pump, bushing failure as I see it was mentioned a few times in multiple posts above. This info may be known by many car enthusiasts or may be new info to some but is important to understand.
The centerline of the trans input/converter/crank is all indexed off the Dowel Pins on GM products (others as well) not the bolts or bolt holes. There is also a “pilot” surface machined into the back of the crank concentric with its rotation although it is seldom referenced and not called a pilot bushing or bearing like a manual trans. This is a one to two thou slip fit for the large center nub on the front of the converter, and the dowel pins are a snug interference fit to the trans case. The center of the crank and trans are indexed in space vertically and horizontally within a thou or two so as to not have misalignment vibrations from the factory and to allow service replacement trans to be installed without these issues. During service-engaging all three steps of the converter and pushing it back an additional quarter inch or 3/8s allows the trans to center on the dowels, and with the rear of the converter centered on the shaft/pump/seal, be pushed forward to fit the front nub nested in the crank. This is what aligns the converter to run true to crank and trans! Not the converter bolts.
I would be suspect of any “kit” that does not have snug fit dowel pins on the adaptor plate and is not CNc or quality controlled to centerline from them on each kit .Looking at the pic of the GM kit on the second link- it seems to have an alignment cup machined in the crank adapter but relying on the bolts to center it concentric seems to be playing Russian roulette also. I would be checking it for spec on the converter snout before installing, then performing a runout check to its alignment bore inner surface with a dial indicator with that crank adapter installed while spinning the crank by hand, and checking all centerline to dowel alignment on these parts. There are other things that affect crank centerline such as remachining crank bore for spun bearing (is raises the centerline) and others I will not get into here. Do a search for “offset dowel pins” and measuring manual trans input shaft to crank runout and you will get more info! Good luck.

Posted on: 7/2 12:17
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Re: Brake Conversion
#6
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What master cyl are you using? What pedal ratio and or power assist?

Posted on: 6/29 16:26
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Re: Dad's 56
#7
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Looks like the top of that lifter left of center is cracked too. You are most assuredly pulling the pan, full tear down inspect and clean, ck cam lobes clean rocker tubes etc. I did not see where you live-ie hot , or moderate climate? Car will be used in good weather? I urge you to block those heat riser cross overs if that’s the case. Recommend pertronix, modern carb with electric choke if cold and hot weather usage. Others will disagree with me here I’m sure but the 4gc have multiple issues - float design, heat soak, vapor flooding. There are good service sheets listed on the site. There are contemporary bulletins on it from other sources documenting this. Flooding can be an engine killer too. Good luck. Have fun most importantly.

Posted on: 6/12 9:18
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Re: merrik long island cars
#8
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It’s Merrick btw. Shout out to all LIslanders! Wondering if this is from the gentleman I spoke with at an upholstery shop some years back on Montauk HWY. seems there are still some people around who have direct contact with Packard dealerships that were here in the area and memories and paperwork to boot that they can share ! Kind regards .

Posted on: 4/17 18:31
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Re: Nee photograph of
#9
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d c
Not sure what the big deal is. If you are so intent on this option, make one. I once had a boat-88 merc IO 3.7. Had a heat exchanger all brass with stainless or aluminum end caps removable . Looked like this. Tubes inside. Cut holes in end caps-tug on exhaust connectors of your size.
That would be tig as in weld. Auto correct

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Posted on: 3/14 15:03
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Re: 1956 400 Ultramatic Transmission Questions
#10
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Yes. John is correct above . Beautiful car BTW. There may be a few things to check. Have you performed the band check and adjustment procedure? Info to the manuals here. I had one where the band control pistons were seeming to get stuck may have been debris or corrosion from long sleep as yours. Adjustments and exercise seemed to free things up. Have you read the normal operation and shift detents positions as they are a bit unique to the ultra. One detention starts in high and only lockup after. The other starts in low-shift to high at a very low speed then the lock up converter should give a sensation of almost another shift. Possible the converter clutch slipping?

Posted on: 2/24 14:03
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