Yes, Jack, all 359 cu. in. engines were originally equipped with aluminum heads. The aluminum heads are easy to distinguish from the cast iron heads due to the aluminum heads having rounded edges while the cast iron edges are sharply squared. Also, the iron heads have slightly raised ridges or bosses running longitudinally along the top of the head, while the aluminum heads are flat. The "359" showing on top of head only appears on the aluminum heads.

Way to go, Ernie! Your calm, noblesse oblige response to what would be a nightmare for the typical antique car buff is just so befitting of a Packard owner, n'est-ce pas? I hope your daughter heals quickly and that she realizes what a great Dad she has.

The mechanical pump pictured is for pumping fuel only with no ability to provide vacuum for accessories such as windshield wipers. The pump inlet is on the left where the 90-degree elbow is with the outlet to the carburetor on the right.

My 1954 Convertible has an electric pump in the fuel line near the fuel tank and the mechanical pump mounted on the engine block under the manifolds. The electric pump was installed by the prior owner and is activated by a toggle switch mounted under the dash. I only use it to prime the carburetor when the car has been unused for a length of time. The system works fine with a single line running from the tank through the electric pump and to the mechanical pump with no need for separate fuel lines.

You could give Bob Stoltzfus of Bob's Packard Parts a call at 717-426-1446. I recently got a cap and rotor for my '54 Convertible from him. He shipped them the same day I called.

I believe another way to tell an Eleventh Series Eight from the Super Eights and Twelves is that the Supers and Twelves have a round courtesy light on the splash apron below the door and above the running board. Since the subject car has no such light, I would identify it as an Eight.

I don't know for sure, but on my 1933 1002 Eight the timing marks are on the flywheel, and the starter motor has to be removed to see them. So, I suspect these were added later.

Agreeing with Big Kev, I would not recommend re-engineering the system as perfect alignment will be lost. The hub/drum puller can be bought new online for as little as $54.00. I picked up a used one at a flea market, so it shouldn't be hard to find.

Although many will recommend an Optima battery, NAPA sells a conventional lead-acid 6 volt battery rated at 975 cold cranking amps. The NAPA part number is 7212. It fits neatly in the under-seat battery holder. It weighs 48 pounds and measures 9.5 inches high by 6.88 inches wide by 12.5 inches long.

Thanks, 53 Cavalier for your further comments. The missing pointer is certainly an annoyance. I looked into these pointers. I thought maybe I could make one out of a piece of wire that would loop around the timing cover bolt, but looking at pictures of them the actual pointer is offset from where it fastens to the bolt. A further complication is I can't even see or reach the bolt that it fastens to. It looks like at least the radiator would have to come out as well as the auxiliary pusher cooling fan that I installed in front of the radiator and who knows what else, just to put the pointer on. That's a can of worms I'd rather not open if there's another way to do it.

Thanks, Ernie for your suggestions. Maybe I should check other manufacturers to see if they make a colder plug. I've watched Ross's video several times on timing the '51 through '54 eights. Since I have no pointer I used his trick of putting a coin over #1 spark plug hole when cranking the engine. He said to use a penny but I found that that jumps every time the piston is on the upswing. A nickel worked better for me, it would move a little whenever the piston was coming up, but when it was on the compression stroke the nickel would flip up a couple of inches into the air. When this happened the rotor was right at the #1 terminal on the cap. So I'm confident timing is close even without the pointer.