Bob, THANKS for the reply and the picture. I will seek out a tool.

Great advise on removing the valve. Much appreciated.

Gar

Can anyone tell me how i should remove the valve and the valve spring?

Is there a special tool to compress the spring?


Thanks
Gar

I heated it up around the gasket and final got it to a point where I could get a putty knife in it. Once I was able to break the seal all around the cover is came free. A fair amount of sludge around the valve arms/springs. Any issue using brake cleaner to remove the gunk?

After 28 hours of effort, I finally was able to get the head off of my 28 6 cyl.

Since the valves were carbonized and dirty from 90+ years of use, I decided to clean the manifold and valves. How do I take the valve cover off of the car? I have taken the nuts off, but I do not see any way to get the cover off. What am I missing?

Thanks,
Gar

Thanks for the tips.

I am still trying to remove the head/gasket. I just picked up another can of brake cleaner and rust buster to work the studs. I do recall one of the studs had some coolant leaking out of the stud when I removed the nuts.

I will keep working it as I need to get the motor back together before it gets cold and winter sets in...

Gar

I am leaning on the carburetor issue as well.

An easy way to check that is to turn off the engine when it it hot, remove the air cleaner and see if a faint vapor mist exiting out the the top of the carburetor. If it does that, then you have gas dripping into the carb while it is off and flooding the engine.

Gar

I tried the turn the motor over option... no joy.

I have been using a 4" wide putty (drywall) mud knife to get some of the gasket out. About 12 hours into this effort and have about 1/2 the copper gasket removed. I am using a small vibrator blade and use the back end of the blade to pull the gasket matl out.

SO... not a 120 1941 convertible coupe?

Owen:

Do you think using my air compressor in one of the plug ports (at 120PSI), while the others are still in the head, would do any damage?

I have about 80% on both sides of the gasket removed (about 3/16") but need another 3/16" before i get to the studs. Nothing removed from the very back nor front of the head.

Thanks,
Gar

You have to make sure your air intake is set correctly as well. The gap when the engine is off is 5/32" (i believe). If you do not have that opening your will run too rich.

Screw in(clock wise) to lean a mixture.

Gar