and packard was targeted more towards older folks who cared about ride quality, noise levels, etc. the big three were more in the hp game.

It's funny to see what folks "swear" by.

The additive market has always existed. Due to stronger compounds, most are added and diluted through the fuel tank now. Personally, I use Lucas products. But MMO has great benefits as a stabilizer and lubricant.

Though first thought would make fouled plugs and excessive carbon deposits, it does the complete opposite. It's even good to replace about a half quart of your oil with some about every other oil change. Besides, it smells good.

You have a real neat piece of history there. I'd leave it on just for the coolness factor. And if you do hook it up, it runs into a vacuum line on the carb.

Worth is relative. Though vehicles generally appreciate with age after a certain point, they are only worth what one would pay for said model. Check auction lists from the last three years to get a general idea. Don't be suprised to not find your model there though. I don't think there ate a lot of them out for purchase at the moment.

I hear you JT...

Opinions are like a**holes. Everyone has one, and everyone else's stinks. Here's mine of course. Modify it. Split benches. Bomber seats. Dashes from completely different makes. Engine swaps. Tranny swaps. Glasspacks. Lake pipes. Cheater slicks. Lighting holes. Sectioning. Chopping. Swapped trim. I'm getting turned on here...

I do understand the "factory spec" crowd. Some models deserve preserving. But- if everyone preserved every one, noone would have anything different. And to me, that would be the biggest shame.

When customization took off in the early 50's, car designers and engineers would hang out like talent scouts at diners and drive-ins to spot what folks where doing. Then retaining their new knowledge, they would push some things into production. We have early rodders to thank for many of the factory options found on all the cars of the 50'a-70's.

While these vehicles have been long out of production, it doesn't mean we shouldn't soldier on with their improvements. Add your halogen lights. Your disk brakes. Your seatbelts. Throw a blower in there. Slam that torsion level system. Paint it neon periwinkle. And if some old codger puts in his teeth to tell you off, give him a double tall man and remind him it was our hero's of WW2 that brought us the rights and inspiration to mod/rod our vehicles.

Ray- with enough money you van do anything.

Following Kevin's lead, I'd also go with a early 50's frame. The width would be a little of an issue maybe. But you could have the frame pinched. A 288ci/ standard with the stock rear would be more than enough. Due to a possible spacing issue between the cowl and stone guard, I'd just leave the hood off. Put glasspacks on it. The ifs will make it handle a bit better, but leave it all stock height. Find some steel artillery wheels and wrap them with big and littles. No white walls. Leave the fenders on. Retain as much of the interior style as possible. Find a visor.

Just scheming here...but what ever you do, pack away all those original parts.

Nice find. Even the wiring under the hood looks decent.

Were there and Clipper strippers to be had with the stripper Clipper?

Well put Randerson. Less is more. Why would someone purchase a no option car like a Cadillac, Packard, or Benz? They almost wouldn't. So in that thought process there should be hardly any left.

My car has almost no upgrades. I think this was due to the fact it was bought with dirty intentions on a low budget. I found the original owners son this winter and he stated it was bought just for hauling 'shine.

Spreche ze duetch? Fantastic work Gerd. Always the man with a plan.

I lived on Mozart straza when I was little. My dad was in the usaf and we were stationed in Berlin for a time. Funny, we had a Chevy Vega at the time.

Yo homie. Just wonderin what type of tranny fluid you were using before the gear oil boondogle? These ultramatics were designed to use type F not merc 3 or whatever.

Sign day pity on the runnin kind...

Tobs,

I was not so lucky as to have a long stud to work with. I broke the EXACT same bolt on my 327. I ended up having to drill it out with a titanium bit (7/16 I believe) and placing a Heli-coil in there. The replacement should be a 1 1/2" 3/8"-16 bolt.