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Board index » All Posts (Sloride75)




Re: Overdrive help
#1
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Sloride75
Pat, thank you for the suggestion, I'll try that this weekend.

On another note, digging around the internet I found this on "Fifth Avenue Internet Garage":

"Do NOT use any synthetic transmission oil / grease in a transmission with a Borg Warner Overdrive. The rollers inside of the O/D transmission that free wheel and lockup the transmission will be too slick with the synthetic oil causing the O/D to not lockup. If someone has installed the synthetic transmission lube, you will have to remove the transmission and disassemble it completely and clean all of the individual internal parts. You CANNOT flush out the transmission with it in the car and get all of the synthetic transmission fluid out of the transmission. So use ONLY non-synthetic transmission lubricant as per factory original or modern 80/90 non-synthetic gear lubricants."

Does anyone here have any similar experience? Seems like it could be my issue...

Source link:http://fifthaveinternetgarage.com/tech_tips_what_transmission_fluid_not_to_use.php

Posted on: 2018/11/12 18:00
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Re: Overdrive help
#2
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Sloride75
David, no worries on the sarcasm, thanks for the reply. I really don't think it's a power issue though. The OD has worked perfectly before, and this feels different. Before, I could let off the gas, let the OD shift/engage, and reapply the gas and the car would maintain its speed or accelerate if I asked it to. Now it almost feels like a slipping clutch, and won't maintain 45 on flat ground in OD. This happened the last time I drove it three years ago as well. I thought maybe something was gummed up in the unit preventing complete engagement, so I drained it, filled it with ATF, and ran the car with the rear end in the air, and refilled with fresh Lucas gear oil. The first stop yesterday was to the gas station, added 12 gallons of clear 92.

Any suggestions?

P.s. the belt on my supercharged car is just fine 😜https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2006-mercedes-benz-cl/

Posted on: 2018/11/11 20:12
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Overdrive help
#3
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Sloride75
Hello Gentlemen, it's been a while. I was able to drive my car yesterday for the first time in about three years, after rebuilding the carb and brake master cylinder...
I'm having an issue with my R11's overdrive engagement. When I reach the appropriate speed and let off the gas, I can hear and feel the car kick into OD - except it won't maintain speed once it's shifted. The car will slow down until I give it enough gas to kick down. Does this sound like an electrical or mechanical issue? Any tips where to start troubleshooting? I've looked through the BW OD manual and I'm not sure my symptoms are covered, although I may be misunderstanding the terminology.

Thanks!

Posted on: 2018/11/11 16:45
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Re: Brake M/C Rebuild Kit Questions
#4
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Sloride75
OD - I apologise for the bluntness, but why? It looks like brass or stainless steel are used for sleeving, which would eliminate the corrosion concern. The cost of sleeving looks cheaper than what Kanter is asking as well. Is there another factor I am overlooking?

John - thank you for that, I would have thought it would be a greater tolerance.

Posted on: 2017/11/10 1:57
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Re: Brake M/C Rebuild Kit Questions
#5
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Sloride75
Thanks for the comments, especially the bit about the rubber washer, Ross. Wes, I've had the same issues with them before as well, which can be very frustrating, and the main reason I figured I'd ask the experts here! And good to know that Napa carries the kit as well.

Any comments on the copper disk on the piston?

I'm sure it will need to be honed out, and that it's been honed before... what's the maximum inner diameter for the bore?

Posted on: 2017/11/8 21:08
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Brake M/C Rebuild Kit Questions
#6
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Sloride75
Hello all,

I recently began the rebuild of my brake master cylinder. After getting my unit disassembled, I noticed a couple differences between what I have and what came in the kit. In the picture, the old piston is on the left, replacement on the right. You can see that the replacement has a copper disk covering the holes; I presume to act as a one way valve. Is this ok? Also, the kit came with a relatively thick rubber washer, as seen between the two pistons. My master cylinder didn't have a corresponding washer. Where does it go? Thanks for the insight in advance!

-Mark

P.S. - that rebuild kit is from rockauto.com, listed for $12.08 right now...Kanter wants $12 just for the dust boot/bellow!

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Posted on: 2017/11/8 7:36
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Re: Thoughts on how to fill pinholes in a disk brake backing plate...
#7
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Sloride75

Posted on: 2017/10/9 19:14
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Re: 46-50 trunk light -- episode two.
#8
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Sloride75
Howard,
I was being rushed so I apologise for the poor picture quality. Not sure if you can tell from the picture, but the wire runs over the hinge to the inboard side, then snakes back out, and rests in the u-shaped channel of the hinge arm. Let me know if clarification or better pictures would be helpful.
- Mark

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Posted on: 2017/2/22 14:49
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Re: Closed Transporters
#9
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Sloride75
Kevin - be sure to check with the carrier before planning on transporting items in the car. I've shipped several cars and the carrier always required the car empty. No spare parts, tools, fluids, nothing. This is not something you want to learn on move day!

Posted on: 2016/7/25 14:30
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Re: 1935 Packard vs Cadillac
#10
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Sloride75
Absolutely beautiful cars, BDC, thanks for sharing.

Posted on: 2016/5/22 11:30
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