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Board index » All Posts (greenfield)




Re: Detroit Model 51 carburetor - massive fuel leak
#1
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Greenfield
Yikes that is one helluva leak! Its almost as if there is no fuel bowl needle in there at all. I'm in agreement; perhaps the float is sunk or the needle is getting bound up somewhere.

I have an 8th series with a DL 51 (standard) and what I do after its been sitting a while is to prime the cylinders with a tablespoon of gasoline, then try to start it. Also, when starting, only hit the accelerator as the engine is turning over (right foot on the starter button, left foot working the gas pedal). If you hit the gas on an updraft carb absent starting, the fuel falls down and drains out and you loose the effectiveness of fuel vapor entering the cylinders, at least this has been my observation.

Posted on: 5/13 16:54
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Re: 1934 Eight water pump
#2
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Greenfield
Hawley -- Is there a little stovepipe coming off the top of the water pump on your car? That would be the oiler, and a squirt of motor oil down this pipe would be appropriate to lubricate the pump. Was it lubricated when you ran it? Might have been the cause of the noise you were hearing.

I suspect your side plate aka water jacket baffling is rotted out to the point where the coolant is not being distributed evenly across the block, as it should be. 50 degrees hotter on the backside of the engine would be the manifest result in my opinion. Pull it off and inspect, if it is fine then all it cost you is a new gasket and a little time. Plus you'll be able to clean any rust scale off the cylinders.

Posted on: 5/6 5:56
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Re: 1934 Eight water pump
#3
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Greenfield
Hawley -- Is there a little stovepipe coming off the top of the water pump on your car? That would be the oiler, and a squirt of motor oil down this pipe would be appropriate to lubricate the pump. Was it lubricated when you ran it? Might have been the cause of the noise you were hearing.

I suspect your side plate aka water jacket baffling is rotted out to the point where the coolant is not being distributed evenly across the block, as it should be. 50 degrees hotter on the backside of the engine would be the manifest result in my opinion. Pull it off and inspect, if it is fine then all it cost you is a new gasket and a little time. Plus you'll be able to clean any rust scale off the cylinders.

Posted on: 5/6 5:56
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Re: super 8 almost stuck
#4
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Greenfield
Been there, done that. Same thing happened to me. Engine had sit for 30 years, and when I turned the engine over 1/2 a turn everything locked up. Figured it was a valve since I had some movement. Tried spray penetrants and MMO, but still nothing. Finally, I decided to soak it down real nice with a 50/50 solution of diesel and ATF. Get a gallon of each, cause you'll need two gallons. Drain the crankcase before you start, cause that's where everything will drain. Fill the cylinders to the brim and wait two weeks. Then, try to turn it over. Hopefully it'll spin completely. Drain the crankcase and clear the manifolds. Worked for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QqXKzS1JVU

Posted on: 5/1 15:30
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Re: 1934 Eight water pump
#5
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Greenfield
Yes, the IR thermometer would test the effectiveness of the water jacket as well. The water jacket has a baffle in it that receives the cool coolant (from the bottom hose of the radiator) and disperses it evenly across the head, front to back. This is done by a series of 5/8" holes drilled in the baffle and directed at each cylinder. Frequently, the baffle is rotted out which permits uneven dispersion of the coolant and therefore unequal cooling across the head. If the baffle were totally rotted, then the front of the head would be cool, and the rear much hotter. The IR temperature from front to rear should be a consistent, perhaps around 125.

Posted on: 4/30 17:22
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Re: 1934 Eight water pump
#6
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Greenfield
An infrared thermometer would be my first step. You can get them cheap, like $25 at Home Depot, and will register the temperature of any surface you shoot it at. What I would do is run the engine for 15 minutes, then use the IR thermometer to take the temperature at the top hose, then work your way down and across the radiator till your at the bottom hose. The top hose will receive the hot coolant from the head, the bottom hose puts the cooler coolant back in the engine after it circulates through the radiator. The idea is that if bottom temp is still room temperature, but the top is 150 degrees, then that tells me the pump isn't circulating well. If the bottom is warmer - say 120 degrees -- then the pump probably is working. If your car has a water jacket, then, on mine at least, it can be removed and the impeller on the water pump be viewed. Don't know why the pump would be clanking unless the shaft/bushing is so worn that the shaft is banging back and worth while operating (?) Might be a good time to drain all the coolant, remove the jacket, back flush the radiator, clean out crud in the head, and inspect the water pump while your at it.

Posted on: 4/30 6:27
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Re: Another scammer
#7
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Greenfield
I love these scammers. I have fun with them. Ask the scammers if the solenoid is for the four cylinder Packard, as that's the one you really need. The response should be revealing.

Posted on: 4/14 17:28
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Re: 1931 826 value
#8
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Greenfield
Post a pic if you move forward with it; we'd all love to see it!

Posted on: 4/14 17:18
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Re: 1931 Brakes
#9
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Greenfield
Thanks Owen - Yes I have checked all the readily available materials I have, but no mention of the thickness of the material for linings. Other references across the interwebs indicate 3/16 is the consensus thickness, so I will give that a go.

Posted on: 4/14 17:11
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Re: 1931 Brakes
#10
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Greenfield
Well Max doesn't have the linings and they advise they don't pre-drill it anyway...anyone know how thick the linings should be? 3/16 or 1/4?

Posted on: 4/13 17:26
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