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Board index » All Posts (carfreak6970)




Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#1
Home away from home
Home away from home

CarFreak
So the past two weekends I made it home in hopes to get the car ready for the journey down to FL. So here's a recap:

two weekends ago I was able to install the gas tank and verify that it wasnt leaking and the fuel gauge worked. I put fluid in the rear end and got everything else buttoned up. I forgot the last hose I needed to close off the system, didnt realize that until I was already 2.5 hrs into my trip back to my folks place... thankfully it was the weekend of my brothers wedding and my inlaws were able to stop by the house and bring it with them. I did get it partially installed but decided to wait to fully close the system off since I didnt want to open the filter/drier to atmosphere if I wasnt 100% certain the system would hold a vacuum because I felt I wouldnt have enough time to address any issue/leak that may arise. good thing I didnt connect that hose.

The following weekend I was able to connect all hoses and pull a vacuum. Unfortunately once the vacuum pump was shut off the vacuum would creep back up to atmospheric pressure in less than a minute. Not good. Not knowing how to find a leak without a sniffer or pumping it full of dye I went to google and found a youtube video that said to pressurize the system with 30-70 PSI of shop air and listen for a leak. Well I found it!! it was the suction hose connection off of the evaporator. Removed the copper gasket, tightened the connection up and was able to pull 30 inHg and it held! while waiting for that I was having my mother go back and forth getting me belts that would work, found one that worked and was able to get the system charged up. I was only able to get the passenger side vent connected to the evaporator box, but I am thinking I may run a 3 in duct hose instead of the 4 in I got since there really isnt much room on the drivers side due to all the wiring. So I will run with one. So with the garage being 60-65 degrees it appeared I was getting about 40 degrees out of the passenger vent. which should be good! but the real test is to see how it works when its 80 and in sunlight.

I added another set of washers for the horn button and now the horn functions by pressing the rim! which is nice.

All fluids were topped off, brakes adjusted and I put about 30 miles on it to make sure everything else worked. Over drive worked, windows appear to work, lights all worked. I finished packing the car with spare parts, tools and other vacation stuff. It was washed and waxed and now sitting under the cover waiting for the shipper! pick up should be holy week (next week).

Posted on: 3/19 8:54
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#2
Home away from home
Home away from home

CarFreak
On another note. The car is now featured in a magazine!! It is in the April Issue of Hemmings Classic Car that is now on the News Stands! I got me a couple of copies to hopefully get it framed for the garage walls!

Posted on: 3/4 16:48
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#3
Home away from home
Home away from home

CarFreak
Well, as I mentioned in the beginning of this build that this car is going on a family vacation to fulfill the idea I presented to my old man about 6 years ago, the date is set for the beginning of April. The car is being picked up before Easter to make the journey down to Florida where a couple Packard owners agreed to accept the shipment of the vehicle and to hold onto it until we get there. Thank God! Now to hopefully get the last couple things checked off the list.

last time I went home I went to work on installing the A/c Lines. Well that didnt go to well because the one line I ordered wrong. The new one is in hand and I hope to get it installed this week. But I was able to print off some duct work adaptors so I will be able to plumb the AC vents in the dash. I also accounted for the overdrive cut off cable for the driver side one. I wasnt able to mount the thermostat on the side of the EVAP box since the box and dash was already in the car when I realized I needed one. I was able to find a spot on the passenger compartment side of the firewall that I could mount it and run the capillary tube through the adaptor and into the EVAP core. The wiring for the thermostat, compressor and low pressure switch is all done, just needs connected.

So when I am in the area this weekend I hope to install the final A/C line, tighten everything and hopefully pull a vacuum on the entire system. I will also be replacing the fuel tank... When I was in last I noticed that there was a puddle under the rear of the car which was interesting considering I did not put fluid back in the rear end yet. Well after going back and forth with the vendor with pictures and videos I am getting the tank replaced under warranty. It was leaking from the joint where the fill pipe was joined to the tank bottom.

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Posted on: 3/4 16:47
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Re: 56 Caribbean Convertible Rejuvenation
#4
Home away from home
Home away from home

CarFreak
I was able to crank a small task out on the Caribbean. The car always had the issue of "clunking" the suspension when the nose would go sky high. Well the reason for that was due to not having the upper bump stops installed all those many years ago. Well I was able to get new lower and upper bump stops (because the lower bump stops were rock hard) installed. So the next time I get a spare minute it will be spent on the top issue.

Posted on: 3/4 16:28
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Re: R11 stuck in gear 😭
#5
Home away from home
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CarFreak
I believe the R11 your referring too is an overdrive unit, I am not to sure what transmission is in that car, but the V8 packards used the Borg Warren T-85 Trans with the optional R11 over drive.

However, with my T85 I had a similar issue where the linkage would not move. It came out to be that the shift forks (the things that actuate the sliders over the gears) were gunked up in the transmission cover. Once they were free it shifted fine. But at that point I just rebuilt the transmission.

Posted on: 2/7 17:24
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Re: 1955 Patrician - On The Road Again Journey
#6
Home away from home
Home away from home

CarFreak
I am not to sure if you mentioned where you set your initial timing? If this bog is happening only between 700-1000 rpms and no where else, it could be the accelerator pump, or it could be the transfer slot, which is the fuel circuit that is active right off of the idle fuel circuit. I was informed that these cars should be set at 10 btdc, and if you have more than that there could be an issue of closing the throttle blades to keep the idle rpm within spec, which would close more of the transfer slot allowing less fuel than needed during off idle response.

Posted on: 1/30 15:07
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#7
Home away from home
Home away from home

CarFreak
This past weekend I went back to where the car is stored with my tail between my legs. I was hoping to get the A/C system connected up but the hoses did not come in before I left. I tried to install fresh air vent a blower housing until I saw I did not have the proper screws. I did however figure out where to mount the thermostat and how to route that capillary tube into the evap box.

Seeing the cost of the "tubes" that run from the evap box to the dash vents cost an arm and a leg on ebay, and the fact that the over drive cable would cause a restriction. I am going to get adaptors made so that I can run standard a/c routing hose from the box to the vents. I got the general dimensions, I just need to design something up.

Posted on: 1/25 13:29
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Re: 56 Caribbean Convertible Rejuvenation
#8
Home away from home
Home away from home

CarFreak
Quote:

Leeedy wrote:
Quote:

CarFreak wrote:
So the Caribbean is still running well. I had some issues with the carbs sticking in high idle. One time it was the secondaries not closing and the next was the linkage binding. But the more I drive it the more comfortable it gets with just being a car.

Had an issue with the suspension, turned out the on off switch needed cleaning. So that was addressed.

Filled up the new tank that was installed and noticed it was leaking and no amount of tightening the line would get it to stop. Found out the female connection in the tank was spinning. So I had to get that repaired. Now no leaks!!

I also got a 56 CT plate for the front! the wife got me one for Christmas and was able to finally put it on. CT because the sticker on the windshield is from a submarine base up there, so I am assuming it spent some time up there after it was purchased new in DC.

This past weekend was the first time the top was put down on that car in YEARS (by us anyway)! it was nice, until I had to put it up. I had to essentially push the top back up while having the button pushed in on the dash. It went down fine, slow like it always did, but it just stopped when it got a couple inches out of the top well. Would this be a weak motor? low on fluid? is there a process to go through to check this out?

Thanks!




For years I was part owner of an automotive trim shop and we repaired and replaced thousands of convertible tops. I knew most of the major players in the convertible business. This included the OEM level of the car business where I helped develop new convertibles and tops.

If you are a member of The Packard Club, check back in old Cormorant News Bulletins and see the full procedure with illustrations I wrote. I also wrote a similar procedure for Classic Auto Restorer magazine back in 1995.

I have said it many, many times and posted instructions. The first rule of owning and operating a convertible with a power top is to never, ever put the top down until you perform some checks. You can lube the daylights out of the pivot points on the top and it usually means little or nothing at all. And one should never, ever push or pull on a Caribbean convertible top. The topstack frame on these cars includes aluminum alloy components that are extremely brittle by now. The least amount of un-balanced pressure one way or the other can weaken, crack or even snap off one of these components. Then you're in for real trouble.

If one lowers a convertible top that has not been lowered in lengthy periods, the very first thing one should do –prior to lowering– is clean the ram rods from the power rams. These rods should be rust-free, slick and shiny. Skipping this step and simply lowering a top that has been sitting un-used for years often means you tear or completely blow the ram seals. And other damage can occur.

Also the fluid in convertible top systems (especially if it was brake fluid) did and does the same thing that brake systems do when left sitting for extended periods. the stuff gets weak, evaporates, dries up, even crystalizes. Check it first. Any evidence of crystalizing? Flush the system... clean and check the pump motor... clean and check the rams.

THEN operate the top.

Here are pages from the original June, 1995 Classic Auto Restorer magazine article I wrote. Please note that these are copyright © 1995 Leon Dixon:


Thank you for that LEEEDY. I knew there was talk of using either brake fluid or transfluid for the top motor, but I can remember if my dad ever mentioned which one he used. and with that information I should hopefully be able to tell. I will go through this before the top goes down this summer. thank you!

Posted on: 1/4 11:32
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
#9
Home away from home
Home away from home

CarFreak
Got a little more time to work on the patrician over the holidays. I got the rear axle cover seal installed, and the pinion seal installed as well. The rear tires are on it and its back on the ground awaiting fluid. I inspected the fuel filter again and there was still a good amount of rust looking sediment in the bottom of the glass bowl. The only thing I can think of is the rebuilt ford fuel pump since everything else is new (put in another new fuel tank). I may get a mopar pump and keep in the trunk just in case. but just in case I installed a new ceramic filter (was a little too tall) so we will see if that causes a leak, and I put another inline fuel filter just after the pump.

I installed the refurbished kick panels, and I measured everything up for the a/c hoses. I will try and get them on order since they are finally back from the holidays. I also took some time on the horn. I installed some washers behind the horn ring and I am able to get the horn to consistently blow by pressing the center of the wheel, pushing the rim does not work. Not to sure if I want to install longer spacers or not. I also used the headlight polish stuff on the center horn button. Looks pretty darn snazzy! I will try it again before I install it.

Posted on: 1/3 11:16
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Re: 56 Caribbean Convertible Rejuvenation
#10
Home away from home
Home away from home

CarFreak
Well its the end of the driving season and this car is sitting for the winter. I hope to get some projects done to it over the next couple months (front bump stops, top issue, and a deep clean) and this past weekend I was able to get a start on that. Due to it sitting for close to a decade and it bouncing from mechanics before it ended up at Ross', the exterior has took a turn for the worse. it needs paint, but any half decent painter will recognize that the standard of body work that was performed by my dad in the 80's are not up par with todays standards... So I am going to try and make this 40ft car more like a 20footer. That started with compounding the exterior. All that is left is the drivers door and fender. The old lacquer color came out again and it does have a little shine to it. I will probably hit it again come spring time but I like the results so far. In the picture below you can see where I hit it with the compound on the top of the fender and didnt going down the side.

Click to see original Image in a new window


It needed it BAD.

Posted on: 1/3 11:05
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