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Board index » All Posts (Howard)




Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
#1
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HH56
Disconnect the cable housing at the speedometer and pull the cable out of the housing. If the able was properly assembled the cable will pull out easily because the upper end has a wide flange that prevents the cable from falling into the housing and the bottom end is just a squared off end of the cable. Use caution and maybe a towel or rags to catch and coil the cable so the cable does not flop around and get grease on the carpet or upholstery.

Take the time to examine the cable for any damage or loose strands. You can do this visually or use care and a rag to wipe the cable free of the old grease. Watch or feel to see if any strands catch on the cloth. Don't use bare fingers because a broken strand can catch your finger resulting in choice words and maybe blood. After that, check for any hidden kinks by holding the cable in the middle high enough so the ends hang down. Gently roll the cable between your thumb and finger so the cable will rotate. While doing this watch the ends and make sure they are also smoothly rotating. If there is a kink generally one of the hanging ends will whip or make a sudden movement instead of a gentle rotation. Broken strands or kinks and you should start looking for a new cable.

Most parts stores have universal inner cables with assortments of fittings in the package, one of which will work for Packards. On the universal cables you buy the one longer than the original length and follow the instructions to cut the excess off the non squared end with a cold chisel or Dremel cut off wheel to match the original cable length. The new end fitting is installed -- some crimp, some glue, and some have an adhesive in the fitting that is melted and the fitting slipped over the cut cable end before it cools.

If the cable checks good or is new, then starting at the bottom end apply a decent layer of speedometer cable lube or light grease to the bottom two thirds of the cable. Coil the cable as you apply the grease so the cable can be easily handled as you carry it back to the car and start the end back into the housing. As the cable nears full insertion you may need to rotate it slightly so the squared bottom end can slide into the pinion assembly. The grease on the bottom two thirds of the cable will transfer to the walls at the upper end of the housing and provide enough lubricant for the upper third of the cable not greased. Only lubing the bottom portion will prevent any excess grease from working its way up the housing and dripping out or working into the speedometer.

Posted on: Today 0:10
Howard
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Re: Stewart
#2
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HH56
There is nothing that needs updating in the cluster although you might take the gauges out and clean a layer of dirt off the glass and possibly find some flaking paint that needs fixing up. Also check the condition of the white translucent plastic and the red cellophane in the bright light indicator. If the bulb has been close and hot the translucent piece is frequently burned and the red faded or has a brown spot in the middle.

The condenser is part of the noise suppression for the radio. Generally those do not cause issues but you can get new ones at Napa if needed.

Here is a diagram showing where you might find others.

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Posted on: 7/25 19:12
Howard
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Re: Starter Switch Bezel
#3
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HH56
Quote:

cortes121 wrote:
What about 3D printing the piece, or silicone molds to recast it?


I tried the silicone with both plastic and a low melting temp metal but with gravity casting the ring thickness and detail needed with the notch on the blocks is in too small a space to completely fill consistently without air entrapment. Maybe a pressure injection would work but I didn't have that capability.

As to the 3D printing, that might be a very good option. I am not sure what is available in plastic that would be strong enough so would probably need to be done in metal. It would take finding a facility that has the equipment and willing to do a relatively small quantity. An initial outlay of time and $$ to get a cad program built would be needed but after that it should be a relatively inexpensive and painless production. Finding a facility or individual with equipment and willing to do it might be the hardest part.

Posted on: 7/25 12:58
Howard
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Re: Packard tailight 56/57?
#4
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HH56
Acolds mentioned a couple of differences between 56 and 57 tail lights but I don't know if it is enough to preclude one year fitting the other or require any changes in mounting. .https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... id=232901#forumpost232901

Posted on: 7/25 12:14
Howard
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Re: 1930-1932 Fender Lights - 'market survey'
#5
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HH56
Just my two cents but I doubt there are enough Packard only sales to make that kind of investment viable.

No idea how Packard specific or identifiable the planned lights might be but if the branding is obvious and there is a way you could also have something removable or as an addition or substitution, make a version also suitable for use with other brands you could advertise more widely.

Another possibility is to offer with any version items needed to use them with one of the aftermarket turn signal setups and maybe get enough crossover from other brands to make the investment pay off.

Posted on: 7/25 10:37
Howard
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Re: Starter Switch Bezel
#6
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HH56
Quote:

BH wrote:
Download and read the PDF from the link at the end of Howard's post and you'll see that he took just such an approach.


I made and gave away 8 or 10 kits to people who posted that their bezels had broken and offered to try the repair. Didn't get any feedback so no idea how many actually tried the kit or had difficulty installing it or just found another bezel. Now that photos of one repair method are posted maybe someone could have a better solution.

The ign switch has a relatively close fit inside the bezel and there is no room for a ring strong enough to withstand the spring pressure to go inside. Because of the close tolerance with the hole in the dash there is no room for anything to be permanently attached on the outside and then get the bezel back into position.

The ring I made goes over the outside and clips to the bezel after the bezel is positioned back in the dash. The ring holds metal blocks that with their thickness works out to the finished ID equaling approximately the thickness and ID of the bezel. The blocks slide inside the bezel filling the space where the hooks used to be.

Cutting, notching, holding and soldering the tiny blocks to the ring at the proper spot is the tedious part with my approach. If someone could come up with a better or faster way to do that part and then if some kind of easy to install ready made clip in a size that could hold the ring to the bezel could be found making or assembling a kit to fix the broken hooks would be fairly easy -- although still a fussy install because of the drilling and needing to work behind the dash.

Attach file:



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Posted on: 7/25 9:03
Howard
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Re: Electronic ignition
#7
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HH56
The 12v Pertronix seems to work well but the 6v is another story. If the car's electrical system is in top notch condition and the generator is outputting the recommended 7+ volts when running then it seems to work adequately.

There is no room for error or voltage drop with the 6v units and if the least bit of typical old car maladies with dirty electrical connections seep in the 6v unit becomes temperamental. If the starter is pulling a lot of current and the voltage drops the typical almost 1 volt at the time it is most needed the spark can become very erratic resulting in hard starting. Some are very fortunate with their 6v units but many who have tried them have removed the Pertronix and gone back to points for that reason. I suspect many had some serious electrical issues at the bottom of the issues but it still affected the Pertronix perceived reliability.

You can search here and the PAC forum for some first hand experiences.

Posted on: 7/24 22:57
Howard
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Re: Starter Switch Bezel
#8
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HH56
Your bezel suffers from the broken ear syndrome that is becoming increasingly common these days and in its current state is unusable. You will need to find another in better condition. NOS are starting to be extinct and even good used are getting scarce and starting to be expensive.

A few years ago I devised a repair kit for the broken ears and gave a few kits away. They did the job but were tedious to make and a bit fussy to install. I made a couple of versions but lost interest in the project and never pursued making some more needed changes. Don't have the eyesight or interest in working on them anymore.

If anyone wants to make something to replace the broken hooks so the scarce bezels can be reused instead of thrown away be my guest because I seriously doubt any new bezels will be produced anytime soon.

Attach file:



jpeg  good bezel.jpeg (18.93 KB)
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pdf new bezel inst redu.pdf Size: 725.19 KB; Hits: 10

Posted on: 7/24 20:30
Howard
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Re: Speedometer glass
#9
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HH56
You will need to remove the entire cluster from the dash. All of the glass is held by a retainer ring which is in turn held in the cluster by bent over tabs on the front of the cluster. Straighten the tabs to remove the retainer ring and glass from the cluster then remove the glass from the retainer.

As to finding a new piece I suspect it will be buying a cluster off a parts car if you want original. That being said, it appears the glass is an ordinary flat glass circle with a hole in the middle. If you have your old piece and it is still good enough for a pattern you can probably have one made at a glass shop.

Getting the center piece back in the new glass may take some ingenuity. There is a small pin that looks delicate and appears to be part of the cast center piece. On the end of the pin is a plastic grommet like piece which actually goes in the hole in the glass. The pin appears to be either peened over to retain the plastic or maybe the plastic was molded over the pin. At any rate the peened over part needs to be removed so the plastic can come off the pin and then replaced on the pin once the center piece is on the glass. Depending on how it comes apart glue might be needed to hold things together in the new glass.

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Posted on: 7/24 17:37
Howard
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Re: Power window motor ID ?
#10
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HH56
Not Packard power window motors. They look more like a power seat motor with the exposed shaft that would fit into a rubber and metal coupler to connect to the linear actuators. They could also be blower motors but Packard only used 4 wire in pre 48 heaters and those had long wires contained in a loom.

In 55-6 Packard used 12v motors with built in gear reduction and exposed 6 tooth pinion for windows. Seat motors looked more like what you show. Both were two wire motors and similar in operation. Only one wire received voltage to determine direction directly fed by the switch and the case as ground.

If yours are 6v motors they might be for the optional 1954 4 way electric seat. I believe those motors were 4 wire and used relays to change direction. I think Ford might have used a similar motor.

Posted on: 7/24 11:55
Howard
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