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Board index » All Posts (Howard)




Re: 1954 Cavalier generator fan belt
#1
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HH56
Also make sure something didn't get swapped so an incorrect pulley is in use somewhere. The belt must be wide enough to have the outside edge run at the outer edge of all the pulleys and not down in the groove. If for example a generator or any other pulley off an engine that used a wider belt is installed on a narrower belt engine, the mismatch will cause the belt to be running too low and will have your exact symptom.

Posted on: 3/2 17:55
Howard
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Re: No Compression
#2
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HH56
Unless there is a lot of luck on your side I don't think you will be able to do much with freeing the valves by trying to fill the cylinder with diesel oil. The spark plug is over a valve so not much will get to the stem that way. Even if you fill the cylinder, if the valve is closed it will not let any pass and if stuck open, unless there is some kind of air disturbance to make a mist and force diesel to reach far enough to coat the stem and drip down into the guide, oil will just drain into the intake or exhaust manifold. All in all it sounds like more of a mess without much if any that will get onto the valve stem and guides.

Some have had the valve issues which seems to be caused after starting and running the engine on old stale fuel. When trying to start it again after a few days of rest the valves are found to be stuck. Whatever the cause, speculation is an additive must deteriorate with age and after being burned must deposit on the stem where it cools and seems to work like expensive glue. A few engines have been so bad it took disassembly and then brute force to the point of breaking a guide or bending the valve to free it.

Posted on: 3/2 17:41
Howard
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Re: Body Mounts
#3
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HH56
Regarding your frame drawing in post #1 above, number 1 is at the left between the B and C indications. It is the one exposed at the bottom of the cowl when the fenders are removed. The mounts follow toward the rear with 2 being opposite the C and go all the way back with 6 and 7 at the rear in the trunk with the F centered between them. Hardtop styles usually have one extra outrigger so 4 1/2 would be on a hardtop and convertible. Longer wheel base models are not covered in the drawing.


Inner would be the holes above the frame and outer is at the end of the outriggers. On the parts list page you posted above you are only interested in the 2672 models which is the 300 sedan or Cavalier model. The 4 outer listings you need are at the bottom of that page and the 4 inner listings are on the following page in the manual.. The 11 listings toward the top of the page starting 22xx are for the hard rubber composition belting like material which was used in most models prior to 51. Instead of rubber, convertibles usually had mostly solid steel blocks needed to provide the body rigidity.

It looks like only the two rubber numbers, 422328 and 437004 are used but the combinations are different depending on location. Shims and steel items are listed starting on page 333. Some of the steel spacer lengths are listed and if shims are needed they only have an X for quantity undetermined since it depended on body fit. Those came in a couple of thicknesses.

In the Steele photo in post #6 422328 is the thicker 1/2 cushion shown as the upper item, 437004 is the thinner 5/16 cushion..

Posted on: 3/2 13:45
Howard
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Re: Body Mounts
#4
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HH56
Check out Steele's offerings for body mount pads. Some years used actual molded rubber and other years only used a rubber and fabric impregnated substance similar to conveyer belting. Steele gives dimensions for his rubber cushion offerings if you are going to try and make your own. At one time Kanter sold pieces of the belting like material where you cut your own 2" or 3" squares out of the piece. If they no longer carry that material McMaster-Carr sells conveyer belting by the foot in a few different widths and thicknesses.

51-4 seems to have only used a couple of different thickness and shapes but 55-6 had some additional shapes and thicknesses along with some having steel cores to keep any body bolts with excessive tightening from compressing the rubber too much. All of the locations could also have needed shims to accommodate differences in body mfg as the pieces were welded together. Ths was found evident if you read thru Stewarts 55 blog on his mismatched door fit adventure which I believe was solved by changing or rearranging a few shims.

If you check the Steele website and click on an item he often provides a dimensional drawing.. Here are the two cushions used in 51-4.
Click to see original Image in a new window

Posted on: 3/2 12:50
Howard
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motor brushes and other parts
#5
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HH56
Saw another post re finding old generator brushes. In some cases where specific part number or brand name brushes and other motor items cannot be found there is a company I believe might have been referenced here before where you can find brushes by measurement and visual appearance. I have not tried finding generator or starter brushes but they do have some that look like could work. I have had success in finding carbon brushes for some small motors such as the power antenna, shift and blower motor from them.http://www.carbonbrush.com

Posted on: 2/29 18:31
Howard
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Re: Temperature connection at the head
#6
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HH56
There should be space in the water passage behind the opening where coolant can freely circulate around the bulb. It it looks or feels like a solid surface after removing the nut the bulb is most likely broken off the tube and stuck in the opening. Calcium and rust can do a job better than some glues and cause the bulb to almost become solid with the head.

Sometime a penetrating fluid or a commercial lime dissolving product continuously applied over a period of time will free it. Other times a rust and cooling system cleaner in the coolant such as oxalic acid will remove enough of the calcium or whatever to free the bulb. Other times it has had to be drilled out.

Most Packards used a bulb with a shoulder and a specific length nut that forces the bulb to seal against a smooth seat in the head. If you use any mechanical means to free the bulb take care not to damage that smooth seating surface or it could be hard to stop any leaks around the nut when things go back together.

Posted on: 2/29 15:59
Howard
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Re: Engine Color
#7
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HH56
Quote:
Not sure what the C suffix represents on those years.

Suffix C indicates the engine had the revised pistons and rings as detailed in bulletin 48T-9.

Posted on: 2/29 12:19
Howard
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Re: Remove Aero-Drive Wiring
#8
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HH56
No problem in removing the relay but if any of the wires are run as part of the main loom and are just going to be cut off or tucked aside then care needs to be taken with a couple of them.

The wire going to relay terminal 1 is power in for the overdrive so will be hot at all times. The wire going to terminal 2 has the other end attached to the coil terminal that goes to the distributor. Not all models had a fuse for the power in wire as shown on this drawing so you either need to make sure both terminal 1 and terminal 2 wires are disconnected at each end or else carefully tape and protect any traces of bare wire remaining at the loom so neither wire can touch ground or another wire.

R9 relays -- actually all R9 parts and particularly the electrical items are becoming scarce and expensive. Even if the relay has a problem it might be repairable or provide parts to fix another one so please don't throw it away.

Attach file:



jpg  R9 Schematic.jpg (148.04 KB)
209_65ddfed7d2193.jpg 1197X673 px

Posted on: 2/27 10:31
Howard
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Re: Can anyone identify this part?
#9
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HH56
Quote:

humanpotatohybrid wrote:

FYI it's not cut off. It detaches with 3 screws at the base (top of the part shown) (one screw hole shown) though often they are stuuuuck from corrosion and the motor body (part shown) must be gently tapped apart from the mast.

You may be correct about it not being cut off. I just don't remember the sleeve into the mast tube being that long but my memory has done me wrong before.

Posted on: 2/27 10:11
Howard
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
#10
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HH56
Also be sure to remove ALL brass tubing fitting from the pump ports if you send it off.

Posted on: 2/26 20:22
Howard
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