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Board index » All Posts (Howard)




Re: lost VIN how to find
#1
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HH56
If the vehicle number on the door pillar is gone then the only other place the number will be found is on the engine IF the engine is still the original. You can look at the photo to see where you should be looking. If the engine was swapped with another then there is no other place on the car to find the original number.

As far as I know there is no member keeping a database for Clippers and without a name of a previous owner or a number doubt it would be searchable anyway. There is an exceedingly slim chance that of the thousand or so records Owen_Dyneto has managed to collect on body ID or thief proof numbers over the years yours would be among them but you might send him a PM with the embossed number over the heater to see if it might be included in his records..

Most DMVs will not provide any information even with having all the numbers and a name and some like California completely drop information from their rolls if a certain period of no registration has passed.

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Posted on: 10/20 16:27
Howard
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Re: 1954 Packard Patrician Sportster
#2
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HH56
The 54 Pacific is classified a Packard which would make it a senior. In 54, they had no two door bodies on the 127 chassis to make a true senior sized convertible or hardtop. Realizing competition was leaving them behind they threw everything senior they could bolt on to the shorter chassis and body to make those two cars look and be more like the seniors. From the largest engine to almost every styling difference the Patrician had they tried to duplicate for the senior look and feel. IMO, they were very successful because the Pacific is one of my favorite models.

For 55 they finally did make a longer body. By virtue of some kind of new fabrication method detailed in some of the Packard books they were able to stretch the bodies 5 inches behind the front seat. However the method works, it did not require the long lead time of making new and horribly expensive stamping dies which apparently they could not afford, didn't have the time, or didn't want to spend the money on. Once they had longer bodies it was just a simple matter to bolt them on the longer chassis to make true senior cars for the 55-6 Packard line.

Posted on: 10/20 12:04
Howard
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Re: 1954 Packard Patrician Sportster
#3
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HH56
The Pacific was a 2 door hardtop and while it was designated a senior it was on the shorter body. Chrome trim on the side is different having short strips instead of the single piece chrome spanning the distance between the long pieces. To use senior horizontal tail lights on the formerly vertical taillight junior body, the lenses were housed in a chrome pod which wrapped around the side to duplicate the wider contour. The regular convertible followed the same styling theme while the Caribbean convertible kept the grafted on tail section making the body longer while still using the horizontal tail lights.

Posted on: 10/20 10:40
Howard
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Re: Rust in gas tank
#4
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HH56
Gas tank Renu is a relatively expensive option but since there are no repro tanks available for your car probably not a bad investment if you want to be on the safe side. They will return the tank in like new condition. If it is not too terribly bad you might also be able to have a radiator shop do a cleaning. If the tern coating has been destroyed though that would be a short term fix as the rust would probably come back. Draining the tank and adding fresh gas along with a large filter in the line just outside the tank might also be a good move if it is only small rust particles.

On getting the rust already in the system out, there is a screen in the fuel pump that might have a good coating of rust so you might want to clean it. Depending on your pump you may need to make or find a new bowl gasket and possibly a fiber washer for the attaching bolt before you remove the bottom bowl to access the screen. If you have the optional fuel filter before the carb, that should have captured most if not all the rust that got past the fuel pump and should be changed. Some carbs have another small screen in a capped chamber just after the fuel inlet port.

Posted on: 10/19 20:22
Howard
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Re: 1937 120 Center Dash Panel
#5
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HH56
It is possible instead of studs they actually had small nubs that went thru the holes and was then peened over -- sort of like a rivet.

Probably no easy way to add studs or screws because there is no room for a blind threaded hole in the thin casting.

Do the gauges and other items that go thru the casting have something in their mounting that would add some pressure to the casting and help keep it in place? If so I wonder if a high strength double sided trim or emblem tape such as used on modern cars could be placed on the back of the casting to stick the sides to the center panel without being so thick it would hold the casting noticeably away from the panel.

Posted on: 10/19 19:24
Howard
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Re: Remote Brake Fluid Reservoir
#6
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HH56
I like that can too. Do we have any source info?

Posted on: 10/19 18:29
Howard
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Re: Clipper 47- just as a spare wheel i look for a alternative rim
#7
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HH56
You didn't say which Clipper you have but as I recall the models with the 356 engine also have a larger bolt pattern. For someone to recommend a good cross you might want to mention the model.

One thing making Packard wheels harder to cross is they have a larger center hole compared to most other cars -- somewhere around 3 1/2 inches.

Another minor consideration is you may not find a wheel from another mfg that has the small holes for the positioning pin used on the Packard drums. To mount a wheel without the holes you would need to remove the pin. If it is for show only and never planned to leave the trunk that would be a non issue but just something to be aware of.

Posted on: 10/19 18:14
Howard
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Re: 56 Caribbean Convertible Rejuvenation
#8
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HH56
Quote:
. By pass the switch by connecting the pink wire to the light green to see if the lights turn on, then pink to dark green to see if the suspension leveling works!

Just the reverse of that. Light green for the suspension and dark green for the brake lights.

I believe the original 55-6 flasher should be a Tung-Sol 273D. That would be the correct thermal type. Very reliable but are current specific and need the correct resistance in the circuit to function properly.

I would avoid the so called universal replacements offered by Napa and others as there seems to be issues with working the indicator lights with some of them. There are modern electronic flashers that work on a different principle and are not resistance sensitive. Those will work regardless of bulbs being burned out. Not sure if they are polarity sensitive though so if you decide to go that route check if the vendor offers different units for negative or positive ground. Don't have a part number offhand but several of the LED bulb companies carry them.

Posted on: 10/19 17:08
Howard
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Re: New Complete Wire Harness
#9
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HH56
You might check out Painless https://www.painlessperformance.com and KwikWire https://kwikwire.com/

Several have used Painless harnesses in the V8 models but you might also want to check out the KwikWire option as they seem to have more choices appropriate to an older car that does not need many circuits. You might also want to speak to them and compare wire sizes between the companies. 6v systems typically need larger size wires to carry the extra current. Kwikwire used to have what they called a heavy duty harness with a heavier gauge wire. Not sure if they still do but for anyone doing a 6v car it would be advantageous to have larger wires if they are available.

Posted on: 10/19 12:38
Howard
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Re: 1937 120 Center Dash Panel
#10
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HH56
I don't have a car that old but I would almost bet that it originally had some studs on the chrome casting that went in the holes in the dash metal and the entire piece was held by speednuts that captured the studs. The back of the casting looks as if there might have been a broken off stud at each corner and in the middle right in the center of the protrusions at the circled spots. The holes in the dash look too small for a screw but not studs.

Packard used this attachment method on many other trim pieces, emblems and scripts. Many times, if someone is unaware of this configuration they try to pry the piece off and the studs break or pull off the casting in the process.

The other photos show the rear of a script with the studs intact and a selection of typical speednuts. In addition to the flat nuts shown Packard also used round speednuts as well as push in tubular types that could have been inserted in the holes in the dash metal with the studs on the casting pushing into those.

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Posted on: 10/18 19:45
Howard
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