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Board index » All Posts (Howard)




Re: Part identification - 39 Six
#1
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HH56
Another possibility is brake return or if 39 clutch release linkages are similar to postwar cars, there is a spring similar to that one running from the clutch fork arm at the bellhousing to a fixed bracket on the frame or engine.

Posted on: Yesterday 20:38
Howard
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
#2
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HH56
With the Olds pump you will not have the aux pump in the crankcase so all the tubing on the side of the block between exhaust manifold and oil pan may be missing. Since you didn't mention the balance valve, that has probably been eliminated too. Your wiper motor and washer vacuum supply will start at the tee fitting at the back of the carb. The other port on the tee will be for the power brakes so you will need to leave that entire setup intact.

The revised tube routing depends on whether you have any kind of aux vacuum source such as a dual action fuel pump etc, If nothing, the short bent length of tubing from the back of the carb to firewall is all you have to run the wipers and washer. If you have an electric wiper conversion then you just need the rubber hose from the short end of the open metal tube to the washer but if you still have the vacuum wipers you will need a tee in the rubber hose so one line will feed the washer and the other feeds the wiper motor.

If you add an aux vacuum supply such as a dual action fuel pump then you could either keep it sort of stock looking by using the old crankcase tubing to the balance valve and connect that to the pump inlet or do it the pre 55 way by running extra metal tubing from the carb tee to place the vacuum section of the pump in series with the metal line to the firewall. It would be carb tee to pump outlet and pump inlet to wiper motor and washer. That method would no longer use the balance valve and would just need a tee for the wiper motor and washer.

Posted on: 3/17 17:37
Howard
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Re: Morticus' Packard 200 Deluxe Touring Edition
#3
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HH56
Don't see a reference to PU 354 offhand. It it a throttle pressure adjust tool and is there an illustration or photo.

Posted on: 3/15 16:34
Howard
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Re: V8 Engine Disassembly, Inspection
#4
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HH56
Read thru Cli55ers Custom Clipper blog as he has some pages with his experiences on water pump rebuilding. I think he found some individual pieces and maybe an impeller but do remember he had some other issues. His experiences might help you avoid any problems.

On the vibration damper puller get or make something that has jaws that reach far enough in to pull behind the inner piece to get the ends close to the shaft. Pulling on just the edges of the outer circumference of the damper is almost a guarantee that on old dampers you will separate the two pieces at what is probably a dried rubber vulcanization. You might be able to rent something or if you have a welder and scrap steel you might be able to sort of copy the factory tool.

Posted on: 3/15 15:01
Howard
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Re: Morticus' Packard 200 Deluxe Touring Edition
#5
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HH56
You can make a cheap quick and dirty gauge that will work on cast iron heads in place of the PU 364 tool by using a length of steel or aluminum flat stock and a machine screw or length of all thread from the hardware store. If you have a decent small ruler you can also do the same adjustment using only a piece of flat stock. Just be sure the measurement is taken from the bottom of the stock which will be resting on the head.

The revised tool dimensions are in the comprehensive adjustment article on page 10 of the Feb 53 SC Vol 27 #2. Place the gauge on the head as shown in the article photo, Instead of having a hole in the tool to stick the end of the throttle rod into you place the end of the length of screw or all thread next to the accelerator linkage and adjust the linkage as the article says so the end of the screw is exactly at the center of the rod. 54 Aluminum heads use a different measurement so without changing the length of the screw this specific gauge would not work on cars having those heads..

Attach file:



jpg  PU 364 substitute.jpg (122.33 KB)
209_65f4c474b94b7.jpg 1108X1270 px

Posted on: 3/15 14:45
Howard
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Re: Auto City Classics 1951-1956 Packard OE Finish Steel Gas Tank TS5156PKQ
#6
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HH56
I think adding the external wire ground is key to solving a lot of tank issues. Even just dropping and then reinstalling the original tank seems to cause a lot of gauge issues to develop. For whatever reason be it a new coat of paint or just a change in position in the body the ground path to the tank and sender seems to be disturbed and intermittent issues become prevalent.

Posted on: 3/15 12:08
Howard
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
#7
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HH56
The vacuum lines to the knob assy is for the feature that is only on 55-6 models and is for the lever that changes the sweep arc. Some Packard advertising called it a super fast sweep for use in heavy conditions but what it does is cut the overall sweep distance across the windshield by about a third so in effect the blades do not have as far to go before reversing so they sweep faster.

They used vacuum instead of a cable for that control so moving the lever on the switch assy connects ports in the switch so vacuum is supplied or cut off to the port on the plate in front of the motor. Behind that plate is a small piston like assy which changes a piece in the mechanism that moves the click valve which controls when the blades reverse. When piece changes valve uses different ports so the motor paddle does not travel as far.

Just FYI, there is a service article on checking the hose positions at the switch because if reversed, one of the switch ports being open to air will cause a vacuum leak and faint hissing noise when lever is in the normal operating position..

Attach file:



jpg  sweep.jpg (114.35 KB)
209_65f47ac647052.jpg 614X814 px

Posted on: 3/15 11:54
Howard
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Re: fuel pump
#8
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HH56
Quote:

Packard Don wrote:
The pump for your car has an arm something like this.


You said you have a 53 so that arm would be much shorter than the 55-6 pump and similar in shape to the arm on this pump from the service manual. Also, when installing the pump don't forget the thick fiber plate or gasket that goes between the pump and block. The fiber plate along with fiber bushings which fill the extra space in the large bolt holes is part of a heat insulator kit. The plate acts as both a heat insulator and sort of a shim. The extra thickness moves the pump a bit farther away from the cam so the arm is not stressed quite as much.

Click to see original Image in a new window

Posted on: 3/14 22:18
Howard
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Re: fuel pump
#9
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HH56
The length of the arm would indicate it could have been used on a V8 and with the vacuum section, if you know it came from a Packard engine the pump might have been used on a Nash or Hudson model when AMC was using the 320 Packard engine. It could have also been something used by an owner who did the Olds or PI oil pump mod and lost the aux vacuum pump functionality. The arm on the Carter pump Packard used was straight but I did use a bent arm aftermarket pump for a while and it did work.

Posted on: 3/14 19:12
Howard
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
#10
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HH56
No drawing I am aware of except a bit in parts book of WS wiper motor and washer but someone might be able to come up with photos of the engine. If not, on the carb there is a port on the side which connects to the small steel tube going to distributor advance can. On the rear of carb is another port where one of the ports of a brass block or a tee is connected. Second port of tee connects to a 1/4 steel tube which heads toward the right head and then bends back toward rear of engine where it kicks up an inch or two near the firewall. It is clamped to the head at the rear. The open end of the tube connects to a short rubber hose going to one of the side ports on the wiper balance valve. The other port on the block or tee connects to a check valve and then the 3/8 hose going to the brake booster.

If the stock crankcase vacuum pump is still installed, on the right side of the engine about in the middle and just above the oil pan is a port where an elbow is threaded in. That connects to a short length of 1/4 steel tubing. A few inches away from the elbow toward the rear is a check valve. The other side of the check valve connects to another section of 1/4 tubing which continues to the rear where the tube again kicks up a few inches near the firewall. Another piece of rubber tube connects to the second port on the side of the balance valve. If the engine has the Olds or PI pump mod that eliminates the aux vacuum pump the 1/4 line is disconnected and block port is plugged. Make sure the now unused port or tube on the balance valve is also plugged unless you are replacing the crankcase pump with something else and visually want to use the abandoned line to keep the vacuum supply more or less original looking.

Attach file:



jpg  balance valve.jpg (156.47 KB)
209_65f38f5d98941.jpg 958X1002 px

Posted on: 3/14 18:57
Howard
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