For the window division channel,” Rubber the right way “will send you some free samples, you just have to pay for shipping. Check them out, helpful fellows

https://www.rubbertherightway.com

Thanks very much for the feedback, will build a box to store them upright

Question for those that have removed the front windshield and back window……..how did you store it?
Standing upright or laying flat, supported in a couple places

Rust repair in trunk under tail lights is now completed, both sides

Moving onto the rusty wheel wells, played around with friends shrinker/stretcher to form pcs. not sure yet if this is how I will proceed.

Question.... how much space is truly between the skirt and the body? I left the welting on when I shaped the pc. and left about a 1/8" clearance. Is this too much?

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some more rust areas. in behind the taillights too.
on a positive side, my fabrication and welding is improving

HH56, yes rust is a bear. luckily I found the NOS front fenders. The rockers, front floor pans and A pillar have already been repaired. Do you know what the dust seals near the taillights should appear to be?

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Went down the rabbit hole recently. decided to remove some of the factory sound proofing material, and discovered rust in a few places, trunk & rear compartment. working on fixing that up. will have to work my way back up to the front me thinks.

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just curious.....what do the dust seals look like in this location. I have a remnant of one(taped together). is the other side similar? and does it run the full length between screws?

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Quote


d c
Re: 55 400 lower windshield trim
#9
Home away from home
Home away from home

d c
See User information
This seems to be a recurring topic. I will post what worked for us again as it has seen years since last time. Our windshield though installed with new gasket with the trim in the trunk and was sagging and was way low in the opening. I realize the clips in the bulletin attempt to pull the lower portion of the glass in but this was not all that was needed. Rubber “blocks” were cut as spacers to rest in the weather strip channel from 1/4 inch thick rubber sheet so they were 1/4x1/4x an inch and a half and were used to raise the glass in the opening. All this was done with the glass installed! With suction cups and hand pressure slowly easing the glass up until a spacer could be inserted here and there in several places along the bottom edge. This then made the whole glass fit the opening better and it seemed to sit rearward more on the bottom edge. Then viola- the curves and contours of the mouldings esp in the lower corners fit better and were able to be inserted in the rubber slot in the weatherstrip. If you have a gap between the stainless trim and the roof this would indicate that the glass is very low and your last pic would seem to show yours is by the amount of pinchweld visible above the weatherstrip rubber along the roof line. The trim was “roped in” with fine gauge electric insulated wire and was still a bear but was doable. The process took WEEKS to accomplish. I hope your adhesive does not create a mess in the summer sun. This is just what worked here. May not be everyone’s problem. Good luck.

Posted on: 1/28 12:44
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Might want to look up this post for reference, I thought it interesting

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HH56 is spot on as usual. I found suitable T-bolt on clips at NAPA and an autobody supply store.

I would like to add that Jeff at restoration specialties is VERY helpful! If you can send him a sample they may be able to match it up.
I couldn't find what I needed in their catalog, but I sent him photos of the length, width, height and he supplied me with suitable replacements. Good luck

Found these in the trunk of my Packard, would they at all be Packard related parts?

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