Hi Ozman,

I sold the car today. I also gave Kevin this website to register and find lots of great info and support. He will get it back to show quality which was what I was looking for from a new buyer.

Thank you everyone for prior support and helping me out.

Now I can spend my full time to finish the 38 dodge truck!

Will do and if I sell it outside of this forum, I'll inform the buyer as well if he/she is not already a member

I have too many cars and not enough time. I bought this Packard, not running, little over 3yrs ago.

I had the water pump rebuilt by a local professional, rebuilt the Bendix Treadle Vac myself as well as cleaning and clearing all the brake lines as the lines and master were crystalized. simple oil and filter change, minor instrument cluster work and the car starts, runs and stops. Rebuilt the carb as well.

It's not perfect as it has two windows cracked but fully operational, some paint spots and it would need to have someone do a complete TLC: Diff oil change, clean/rebuild wiper motor (runs but slow and I didn't try to fix it), fix any vacuum issues, double-check my Bendix rebuilt, etc.

Most of the chrome is good but there are few spots that rust peeled the top layer. I only cleaned the main bumpers and they look great and I'm sure some elbow grease in the Toothed grill would do the same and bring up the luster.

Interior seats was done by the previous owner(s) but I think the rest of the car is original: paint, under carriage (no rust), interior, glass, engine, transmission, 6 volt system, etc.

I have the rear skirts from another car (color is light blue) and I believe 6 hub caps that I purchased over the years as it didn't come with any.

If you are an Oregon buyer, it will come with the Special Interest plate.

Tires are almost new. Car doesn't smoke. It starts up (battery a bit tired) with the electric fuel pump but after it warms up, you can turn it off if needed.

Title is clean.

I don't know if $5250 is about right, too much or too little for asking price/obo. I know it all depends on who and where the car is in addition to interest and originality.

I wanted to post it here first and get your input and follow with FB and CL.

You can test drive the car but I wouldn't try to drive it for long distances until someone goes over the items I didn't get time to do. Again, this a minor project car where one could drive it today and continue to fix things and make it perfect (paint the air filter and radiator), fix the wiper fluid canister, repaint, get the heater working, etc.

I can add any specific pictures not already uploaded.

I'm in Portland, OR. 503.8SixSix.649zero

thanks!
Anatole

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Oregon and Washington have some restrictions on plating and lack of them possibly raised the price. The guy was very nice and did offer to ship them to anther state for lesser price. Of course, I agree that everything is up and 35 years ago, in Texas, I had a complete 61 ALFA rechromed (bumpers, grills, seats, dash, etc.) for $350. I was expecting around $30 per ring but was surprised by $75 which the going rate in NW and even a bargain!

I did get the wipers to move but the show the same behavior as in this other 52 200 thread (hopefully it's not the same car!) Without the wipers, it turns for 2 sec,stops. If I reverse it, it goes 2 sec the other direction and stops.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=15243&viewmode=compact&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

I have not yet looked at the inside mechanism as suggested and hopefully can address the issue and move to the washer.

Thanks Howard, I just need the same thing repeated until I get it in my little brain! (in re: to the WW that is vacuumed).

I finally took the cluster out, cleaned all the glass and polished the chrome and the rings are pitted but they quoted me $75 per ring and I said no thank you!

I managed to heat glue the twisted rheostat spring and found the correct wire (weird that it was orange and not black) that is the main splice from the 5 or so new wires for each of the cluster bulbs. I didn't remove all the tape and just happen to get lucky and my Ohm found a match.

I do have dimming lights and it's OK for the current switch. Maybe one day I'll find a replacement for it.

I also soldered and fixed the turn signal light and it's working.

I think the clock is dead. I can't move it at all but the interior is very clean and looked new. I decided to deal with it later.

Fuel and engine vacuum noise is next followed by Heater fan and WW.

Thanks again for all the help.

Anatole

Since I have so many different cars, I have been reading on this DOT stuff for the last year and here is my understanding.

DOT 5 is silicone but not DOT 5.1!!!! They should have gone with DOT 4.2 or 6 but instead they have a DOT 5.0 which is silicone and 5.1 which is not. I'm pretty sure this is correct and one cannot mix 5.0 with other numbers and 5.0 could possibly damage your system depending on what type of material your Master or lines are from.

Well, I do know now some of my issues.

Thank you for pointing out on how to remove the bulbs. My cluster was very clean and I could barely see the gap in the metal but a simple needle nose and rotation got them out.

I do have the original cluster as it is stamped MAR 52 but I do see that the previous owner(s) made few changes.

The one bulb that I saw working was the High Beam and it was in the turn signal location (per the wiring diagram and coloring chart). The turn signal is detached from the bulb housing and I need to fix it but couldn't get the bulb out with just my fingers and pushing and turning. One of the two still has the "yellowish" cover and I'm guessing it's the high beam and the turn signal should have had green lens, perhaps.

All the other bulbs are working when tested but I can see new black wire (rubber instead of fabric) used. the harness is taped so it's hard for me to trace the point it meets the old wire since I don't see any new style wire on the switch.

And as some of you guessed, the switch needs some work. The rheostat was broken and I tried to reposition the damaged spring and measure the voltage but while I was getting my 5.5v from the source, the output was pretty much less than 0.5 volt regardless where the knob was positioned. I saw coupld of used ones on Ebay (no not the $200 ones!) and waiting to hear from one to send me a picture of the rheostat to make sure I don't buy another broken one. If anyone has a spare to sell, let me know.

The clock is still a puzzle but it might be just connections. I tested both sides of the fuse and I get current flowing. The fuse is also good but when I put them all together, I don't get anything. It may just need some cleaning, some electrical spray and maybe a new spring in the fuse housing.

The switch below the headlight is still a mystery. it has 3 connections and it's a push button. I still think it's the washer. two of of the wires were cut off and one was actually a newer kind. But one that is not, I traced it to go into the steering column (best that I could tell).

most of the original harness looks good and I saw maybe 2 that had some broken covers (not like in the engine where the heat did more damage). With a replaced headlight switch, I should be able to reconnect to the black cluster wires and also retest the map and courtesy light(s). I have not taken the rear passenger light down to check the bulb. I didn't see any in the trunk as that was an optional accessory and not sure if the Deluxe had them.

Q: the vertical tail lights work but I was surprised to see them jamb everything into one bulb given that they could have easily just drill another hold for the tail light to be independent of brake and turn signal. Every little thing would add up $$ and maybe safety wasn't as big back then. Unless you have a concourse car, I can see this being a simple addition and would allow a better visibility to avoid getting rear-ended. I'll have to drive it at night to see it myself as perhaps it's not as a big deal as I think it is.

Anatole

I think that's what happened and the previous owner(s) removed the cluster but never replaced the nuts!!!

I'll take my time tomorrow to gently remove the bulbs. Visually, they looked as part of the back panel but from the info, I'll look closer and follow the instructions.

PS; the car is at another location and why I can't just go and do it now.

thanks Howard, the diagram confirmed I positioned the hoses properly.

I did clean and used K&N oil in the small filter mounted on the firewall but I didn't do anything to the canister.

Thank you all for the info. I'll trace the wires tomorrow.

I'll be reading on how to change the bulbs as it appears that I need to remove the instrument cluster then all the screws to remove the cover in order to access the bulbs from inside of the cluster. Correct?

BTW, the temp sending unit is resolved! I ran a wire from the sender to the gauge since I had my ohm tester out and the gauge started to move and stopped halfway or near "E" while it was just idling with the hood open. So I decided to remove the tape at the end of the connection and put a new connector and added a heat shrink tube for the remaining wire so that it lasts longer and not crumble. One down.

I'll remove the air intake and see if I messed up the carb when I rebuilt it

BTW, my wiper does turn back (towards the driver) but not forward (towards the engine) as stated above and in the user manual. Possibly need to clean/oil the wiper motor. And I don't think the car ever had a radio. No speaker and the radio cover appears to be original from the back and I don't see a single lose wire for radio or speaker under the dash. My antenna hole appears to never been occupied as I don't see any scratches and/or paint differences but I'll know more tomorrow as I will take 4 advils and go under the dash!

Anatole