Yes the newer version is a rod with rubber grommets on each end.

Could there be more twist to the axle under load than previous since you removed some of the leaves ?

As a note of interest the first Warner overdrives (R1) had no kick-down feature and of course no solenoid or electric controls. I think the R6 was also available without the kick-down for some, other than Packard, models of cars.

Probably not worth adding to Howard’s excellent description but it does sound like the 2 methods have been confused.
I believe the R6 solenoid has spring on outside of the shaft making it naturally (not energized) extended and the R9 has an internal spring that makes solenoid naturally (not energized) retracted.
When pawl is extended, in either case, overdrive is operative.

Brass nuts are used to prevent seizing to steel studs.

If you are removing / replacing manifold studs be sure and use a good thread sealant into block. I believe it’s the first stud in line that goes into the water jacket and might require attention.

Why no detail on cars or location?

If the 3 bolts are loosened you might have enough wiggle room to correct the space across the intake /exhaust flanges. I took mine apart years ago without breaking bolts. Also there is a “hot spot” gasket between the manifolds that came with my rebuild gasket set. I guess it’s also possible somebody milled the exhaust manifold and not the intake. As Howard noted there is not much meat on the manifolds to mill, so if needed be careful.

Same on my 40 120. Started with a sticking or burned valve that led to pulling the motor and doing complete rebuild. I think I bored it .20 over and actually found a set of oem Packard pistons to go along with everything else new such as, bearings, valves, guides, springs, timing chain & gears, distributor bushings, oil pump gear set, fuel pump. The list goes on when you start.

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I believe the 55 bulb has a higher output than the 51s