I would have loved to keep my '56 Caribbean Hardtop an R12 car but R12 is $250 per pound, at one of the very few shops (1 or 2) that will deal with it, especially on a classic car. The Packard system is roughly 5 pounds so that is a total of $1,250 for just the freon. Add in roughly $400 for an NOS modulating valve, oil evacuation in the NOS compressor, new oil and the labor, you probably will be well over $2K just to get the thing up and blowing cold air. Pray it doesn't leak any time soon. I'm in Southern California where the restrictions are onerous. Given the cost of the R12 I concluded it was better to go R134 as it is $30 per pound.

I'm in the process of adding a factory A/C system to my '56 Caribbean Hardtop. Have an original NOS Lehigh compressor and NOS clutch. Decided to go R134 as R12 is enormously expensive here in Southern California. What my A/C guy recommended is going with a cycling clutch as the original modulating would not work with the R134. We then gutted the modulating valve, so it just functions as a "pass" through, then added a module to cycle the clutch ala modern cars. Also, as mentioned in other posts, the original hoses, which I bought a few decades ago NOS, are not compatible with the R134. According to my A/C guy, the rest of the system should work fine with the R134. We will see in a few months how successful we are. Have heard stories that at idle or low RPM the Lehigh is not efficient and will not blow cold as modern systems. Any feedback on that issue? Thanks.

I just bought an NOS rear license plate bracket for my '56 Caribbean, however, the mounting holes on the bracket do not line up with the holes in the bumper. Bumper holes are 2 7/8" on centers and the bracket is 2 1/2" on centers. The NOS bracket bottom plate that mounts to the bumper has an approx. 45-degree angle also. My original bracket was a regular right 90-degree angle. Question: What year or years does this NOS bracket in the attached photos fit? I won't work on my '56.

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The "dimple" molded into the lower part of the A/C vent plastic was placed in the incorrect location, See photo. The correct placement should be on the opposite side. The theory is that this "dimple" was incorporated into this part of the vent to clear the R/H turn signal light socket. Was this error ever corrected later in production?

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My Caribbean hardtop, #1061, was originally a chromed steel type, build sheet stamped 01-27-1956. I have since replaced it with NOS gold aluminum ones as the original was rusted to all get out. I had found the NOS gold pair about 35 years ago. Either one I would think would be correct as dealers like Frost and French and some others may have replaced them for owners' way back whenever. My chrome plater seemed to think you could get that "grid" pattern today and finish it in chrome or gold.

Is there any difference between bolt P/N 358215 and bolt P/N G120424? Page 16A of the 55-56 Master Parts Manual give the same dimensions,1/2-20 X 1 1/4, just different application or usage. The P/N 358215 bolt detail is not listed in the back of the Parts Manual.

Does anyone know of someone who has a mint condition, unmolested top of dash pad with A/C vents on a '55 or '56 senior car? Looking to see what the original looks like as to contour. I think Just Dashes got my padding too thin when they redid the top padding and vinyl, therefore causing the A/C vent bottom part to ride right next to the wires for the R/H turn signal indicator light. Any help would be appreciated.

The actual Packard drawing number for the A/C wiring is 1-1363 named "MISC". You can obtain a copy of this from the Studebaker Museum in care of Andrew Beckman. Email address is: archives@studebakermuseum.org. There will be a nominal fee for it, but it is an original Packard wiring print.

I completely removed my dash from the car to install a factory A/C set up. Howard is spot on, use the A/C installation instructions to remove the dash. There are about 9 screws along the windshield and one bolt each at the kick panels. I removed the top screws first, then loosened the 2 bolts at the kick panels and rotated the dash down pivoting on the bolts at the kick panels. You will have to remove the steering wheel and drop the column. I have a '56 so dropping the column was easy due to the addition of a "coupling" just forward of the fire wall. The '55s will require you to unbolt the steering box from the frame to lower it. Hope this helps.

My hardtop is #1061, MES. The build sheet has a rubber stamp on it indicating the date of January 27, 1956. Don't know if this meant the car was put into production on that date or was completed and ready for shipment. Car delivered in Hawaii and coded as an "export" as Hawaii wasn't a state at that time. Hope this helps.