That 51 200 has an Ultramatic in the trunk where someone cut off the brace instead of unbolting the rear, and the entire unit appears to be there, except for the casting of the torque converter. Can't imagine why anyone would want to remove it in that manner, OR need that one part. Very strange.

What car do you have, what transmission?

What part of the US?

Motor technology has improved significantly since the 50's with permanent magnet, reduction gearbox motors being common and cheap. They have the additional benefit of light weight and low inertia so I would expect that positioning could be precisely controlled.

Did you check the parts book diagrams? Might have the answer as to whether it is put together properly.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/parts ... list.php?cat=16&partslist=1941-1947

Quote:

I didn't say that. I was ambiguous as to the type of servomotor, but a resolver feedback type would generally be best. You can digitize a resolver signal to feed digital inputs to whatever degree of accuracy, then program the controller to the correct shift point offsets as well as a global offset that is calibrated on installation.

You could simply have the resolver connect to the sector gear itself, though either the tuning would have to be sluggish, or the worm gear would need slight interference with the sector gear, to keep the motor from oscillating. A PID scheme, position to voltage, should be satisfactory.

White/Pink exterior and interior

AKA your least favorite ☹️

Hello John,

I actually had this idea in the past but didn’t pursue it since there would be 0 market demand. If you were going to do this you would want to use a servomotor not a linear actuator, as you can calibrate on position, not timing. These transmissions are sensitive to misalignment of the shifter arm. Side note, I don’t see the point of an optocoupler when a simple 2-resistor voltage divider for each button would suffice.

I really suggest to just buy a complete refurbished push button unit. I could supply most of it but Mr. Pushbutton would be a better source. Please send some photos under the hood showing what relays and linkages remain.

Another option is to get rid of the buttons and change to a column shift. I have a couple of spare columns.

P. S. The shifting force is basically a moderate thumb pressure. Less than checking belt tension.

Kevin,

For reference, the respective section is page 10 of the Engine manual.

Don't think anything was "grafted" on that 54, however the steering wheel is off a 55-56 Clipper. 🤔