Very unusual to see a radio delete plate on a 56, and on a Custom no less.

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Again my comment from a few months ago rings true...

Virtually any post war car was very well designed and when PROPERLY repaired will give very satisfactory service. Especially for your car which was top of the line after 20 years of iteration on every part of the car: the mid 30's cars onward used nearly the same engine and likewise for all major systems.

So I most highly recommend to first understand the car as-is before planning changes to what can easily be serviced into a well functioning, highly original vehicle.

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/414077-6-volt-starter-on-a-12-volt-system/?do=findComment&comment=2680091

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I would suggest getting it going with the factory drivetrain. In the long run it will be easier and cheaper.

Didn't you say you wanted this project to be done within 1 year?

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I would not if I were you. You will need a battery anyway, may as well get one first thing.

ANY decent paint job will be expensive. Take it to Maaco and don't inspect it too hard afterwards.

Does it run yet? If so, how does it drive?

I think the speedo on the top is from a 55 Clipper. Executives used 56 Clipper equipment.

You didn't include the only two relevant pieces of information for this type of question: year and mileage.

10W30 oil if lower mileage, 15W40 if higher. If you have problems with the latter then you need engine work. Off the shelf oil is OK. No extra zinc needed. But you may want to use lead substitute in the gas.

Do not use a 12V battery unless you are also the type to fix broken parts with JB Weld and rust holes with Bondo 😉

Whatever battery fits in the tray is appropriate. They don't need to crank fast to start and a same size battery of today is better than OEM.

I remember you posting about that. Amazing repair!!

Pretty sure I bought the cheaper kind. Looks good but not concours by any means. But saves hundreds on a car.

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Recall that the Twin Ultramatic is designed to downshift (kickdown) to first under full throttle at speeds up to about 60 MPH, for passing. However, this behavior is often undesirable to today's owners.

The purpose of this kit is to make it "harder" for the transmission to kickdown, by changing the shift lever geometry so that the throttle pressure is not raised as high at full throttle. (Kickdown occurs roughly at maximum throttle pressure.) At the same time, the throttle pressure is raised on the low end, resulting in a firmer shift. Installation instructions are below.

I am planning on reproducing the shift extension kits. They will be made as shown below, from carbon steel. I am targeting a price of $11; please let me know if you are interested.