You are fortunate to have a good set made by Oakes, they are rocking horse manure. A gentleman named Henry Yeska I think made copies. I would be keen to know if some of those are still around.

The correct vacuum tank is a Stewart-Warner

I am seeking the bearing part number which would be a Timkin or alternative in likely SKF or New Departure or other proprietary brand. A lot of bearings are standard sizes which can be bought at a bearing supplier.

Thanks, I should have defined it as for Series 6 Standard Eight

Just curious at the moment. Seeking current inner and outer front wheel bearing and upper and lower king pin bearing part numbers in Timkin or SKF

Just my view

Getting the head off can be an adventure if it has been on for a while. I have been through this a couple of times. The head is stuck on the studs, rusted on and you will need to use a rust freeing material, usually a good penetrating oil, better that WD40, there is a product called Yield Penetrate Release Agent made by NCH Chemicals it is in a spray can you can squirt it down the studs to release some of the rust keep squirting it in for a couple of days so it soaks into the rust. I have two tools made from 18mm spark plugs, I put one in number and two in number 7 plug holes and a heavy bar between them, pulled the hood off and used a block and tackle to lift the head as I hammered away at the wooden wedges as it lifted I added one more click on the block and tackle effectively hitting the head onto the tension of the block and tackle. Five hours later the head was off and you will be surprised at the amount of crap left behind, you will wonder how the car went at all has been my experience. The gasket will be stuffed and better cut off with snips. I then reamed the stud holes, brushed the studs and painted a epoxy rust inhibitor paint after I ran a die nut over the studs. I had the head cleaned and shaved, (the head may have a little warp if the car overheated at some time in its life), and put the head back on. Get a straight edge to make sure the block is flat. Use a feeler gauge if you see any light under the straight edge on any space over a couple of thou get the block checked out.

Do not go straight to 60 ft/lbs, in my view 50 to 55 to be a little conservative. Go over each nut with a bottom tap to clean each nut. I use a sealant called Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer on the gasket top and bottom. Once the head is on follow the nut pattern, go down to about 40 and leave it, perhaps overnight. Then 5 lbs increments to 50 and run the engine to running temp and leave it cool then come back to see if you need to add a bit. I use a deflective beam torque wrench which I have had calibrated a few of times.

Check the website straight-eight.com

I recently pulled the head off my 633 as part of the process of replacing the gasket and taking 0.017 of the head I ran a die nut over the studs and used a bottom tap on all the acorn nuts to remove any uneven thread which may inhibit even tension. In practice it good process to use a washer beneath each nut and follow the tightening pattern incrementally as each nut is torqued using a tension wrench. The thread size is 7/16 inch UNF.

It should face forward has been my 50 year experience.

7/16-20 is UNF (United National Fine) thread. Get a die nut and run it over the studs to clean them up if you have not done so already. THe gasket sounds like a compound material which I have used successfully. The copper side goes to the head, the bottom I would assume would have a lapped in burn ring to go to the head side to get the seal between head and block. Have the head shaved if needed to make sure the are no warps, highs or lows so it is perfectly flat using a flat edge and feeler guage to find any highs or lows.