Thanks for your advice. I may go with the 10-30 then. Do you see any reason not to run synthetic? I figure the new seals should be ok and I cleaned out all the old sludge.

Hello all, I am completely tearing down and trying to clean my Patrician 352. There was a lot of sludge and dirt. Engine has around 38,000 miles and appears to be original shape. I am disassembling the hydraulic lifters and trying to get any and all old sludge or oil deposits out. I have been trying to research correct oil replacement for the straight 20W per manual. I live in central PA and car will be started from time to time in the winter to circulate fluids. I was wondering if a synthetic 5w20 would be too low of a viscosity oil to use. I am planning on changing to the Mellon oil pump as well, unless I would lose important vacuum features as the wipers or anything drastic. I am also replacing new seals and figured a synthetic would be fine then. Was thinking of Valvoline or Castrol. Thanks for anyone's input or expertise on this. I wanted to figure out what to use so I can fill the lifters before re-assembly.

Hello. I am rebuilding my 55 352 and I am unsure how to read the bearing sizes on the rod and main bearings. On the rod bearings ther are the letters Fm and below that are numbers 2 55. It does not say STD or anything. Does anyone know the correct reference?

I have added the extra oil and also a decent bit of Marvel Oil. I have ran the engine twice now for about 10 mins each time and the tapping has not returned. Oil pressure stayed between L and middle indicator once warmed up and it would climb back to normal range once engine was accelerated. Oil is leaking pretty bad from underneath so I will have to probably pull the pan and timing cover and replace the seals. I am hoping not to have to remove the entire block. Any tips for pan removal or rear rope seal replacement? Thanks.

Does anyone know what would cause a new coolant temp sensor not to work? I replaced the old sender with a new one from Kanter and the gauge still will not work. When I ground the sender wire to the engine the gauge moves towards hot. The other gauges work except the gas level. Thanks for your help.

Thanks, I just listed her in the registry. Looking forward to being able to take her out on the road hopefully next spring.

Thanks Don. I did a complete brake shoe and wheel cylinder replacement. I bled the lines and replaced the ones that were leaking. I have good brakes about 80 percent of the time. The other times the pedal will go to the floor with no braking, even after a few pumps of the pedal. I did just get the rebuild kit for the booster and the cylinder. That rebuild will probably be done in a month. I figure if I have to take the engine out then I will replace all the lines in the front and it will be easier to take the power brake unit out with all the extra room.

Hello all, I have been working for the past few months on getting my newly acquired 1955 Patrician road worthy and safe. I was hoping to be able to drive it on the highway, but the brakes do not work 100 percent of the time so I will probably rebuild the booster and master. I have rebuilt the carb and got the engine running, but am having oil pressure issues and tapping from the driver side. The tapping was off and on more after the engine warmed up at idle. Pressure in middle of gauge and after warming up goes to "L" on gauge. I tried the adding 1/2 to 1 quart more of oil and that seems to help with the tapping, but the oil still goes to almost L once warm. I am planning on removing the engine and replacing the seals as it leaks oil a lot from the front to rear seals. I just ordered the Melling M22FHV pump and was wondering what else I needed to do to make the swap? Thanks for all of your advice and help. I am impressed with the features and the build quality of this car, first Packard.

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