Are either of these ones you could use?

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Good point. The data sheet notes the Turn Signal switch as U-13340-TS. Just bought it this summer and I have seen it in numerous older cars as an aftermarket accessory. It is also a standard hook-up so that the signals and brake lights work independent of each other like a modern car.

I will be making my own wiring harness when I get my car back from the paint shop so I thought I would scour the old drawings and create a new one based on it, but in a clearer format as well as a 3D image that you can pan/spin/zoom using Adobe Acrobat software. I have incorporated some revisions based on my car such as turn signals and a later model voltage regulator but I thought others may enjoy the drawing and 3D model too.
BTW, the drawing is done on a B size sheet, (11x17") so either pick that size to print, or if you have a standard letter size printer use the 'poster' option and set it for 2 pages. Makes it larger and easier to read.

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Yes, I have done the same with mine to great effect. The other thing that happened to mine was a sagging spine front to back. (Cowl to Rad Shell.) Gentle pushing from the inside of the two spines while separated and using an extruded aluminum 4 foot level as a guide brought them back to true and a smooth hinging action resulted. Not to mention a much better look.

Mine looked like a screen door on a submarine, welded in some patches then took it to Gas Tank Exchange and had them seal and coat it. Better than new.

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Take the tank to a shop and have it properly cleaned. It is not a quick process but you know as well as everyone that it is absolutely necessary. Old gas turns to varnish and it does not dissolve in new gas. Along with the varnish will be rust and dirt deposits encased in the varnish. It will continue to hamper your entire fuel system fouling the filter, pump, carburetor, and finally the valves. After that much time sitting a rebuild of the fuel pump and carburetor are also necessary if you want to enjoy driving it. Like the old Fram ads slogan, "Pay me now or pay me later".

I have purchased the weather stripping kit from Kanter, (beautiful kit, highly recommend it!). I have two items I need clarification on.
There are two long strips of channel that go on the front door roll up window at the back edge of the vent window frame. Can I cut that to go the full length of the channel? On my disassembly I see it is only on the exposed area above the door top, but the piece of lower channel on my car that was inserted into the lower portion is quite rusty, so I figure to run the new channel full length but thought I would ask the forum if there is a hidden issue with doing so.
Second is that there are two lengths of 'cat whiskers' that are longer than the door is long (front to back). I suspect this goes on the inside on the door caps but there was nothing there at disassembly nor any holes on the door caps nor the inside lip of the door skin. Included in the kit is a set of clips I think are to be used to fasten this trim. Am I supposed to drill the door caps to accept the cat whisker trim? If so it would only fit along the roll up side widow from the vent to the end of the cap at the jam correct?
Appreciate your direction on this.
Thanks,
B

It looks to me like those two tabs are keeping the cap on. (There may be a third or more occluded from camera view)
Is that the way for the cap to separate from the sub assembly part?
If so, you can remove the top cap vertically then that should allow the feature below it to be removed (likely vertically), then you can unscrew the jam nut for final removal. They put it together somehow so it is just a matter of puzzling out the method and reversing. Use high power magnifiers and strong light source to examine every crack and crevasse, you'll spy an answer.

The one in my '37 was way worse. I took it to a company called Gas Tank Exchange and they coated it with an outer black polymer and a white lining polymer and it is solid now. I am in Ontario Canada, but hey if we can do it here, there has to be a US company that can too. It cost $300 CDN which is in the $230 US range. Took about 4 weeks.
Bob J.

Thanks for the confirmation. I suspected as much. Nice to know for sure, one more mystery checked off!
To tell you the whole story is to admit that sometime in the 50's this motor was pulled from a '53 and placed into my '37 120C. So I will be blocking off that tap as it has no power brakes. The transition was never completed and I do not think the motor was ever run in the car. The car was not licensed past 1959 and remained in dry storage. I had to tub the firewall slightly to clear the rear of the block better, and move the rad deeper into the grill shell to allow fan clearance. I expect that the lower rad hose will be a head scratcher to plumb but there are ways.
Upon tear down it shows as a very low mileage engine. No machining will need doing and rings and valve springs will complete the rebuild along with a gasket kit. Oh, and I am putting in all new hydraulic lifters too. The 9 mains is a big step up from the stock 282 CI in the 120, and the extra 60 HP will be a nice bonus too. And it is still a Packard, neat! The boys back then even found a set of coil springs to have her sit level so that is also addressed. I like that it is true to those who came before me. I just need to do a few tweaks to get her over the finish line.
The manifold is powder coated by a firm here in my town of Cambridge Ontario with ceramic. I wanted the intake to match the engine and the exhaust to be black. I think it will look very nice when assembled, they are such a large part of the passenger side engine detail.
Bob J.