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Board index » All Posts (Bobs37)




Re: 1937 Packard Headlamp Assembly Direction
#1
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bob J
That is what I thought would be the case, I have the reflectors installed in the trim rings with clips and it seemed logical. Thanks for confirming Mike. I had no reference point with the car having had sealed beams in her.

Posted on: 5/14 18:01
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1937 Packard Headlamp Assembly Direction
#2
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bob J
Hello all,
I am reverting my 1937 120C back to its proper reflector style headlamp from an attempted sealed beam conversion when the previous owner did it sometime in the 50's. Can anyone direct me as to how the reflectors assemble into the headlamps? I suspect that the reflectors go into the headlamp housings and are held in place by some sort of hardware, then you apply the cork gasket somehow. The lens is clipped into the bezel and that sub-assembly is positioned on the top tab and swung down and fastened in place by the one centre 8-32 screw. I have a cross sectional drawing in my owner's manual but under magnification it is just a black blob in the area I need to see the stack up of parts.
Thanks very much.
Bob J.

Attach file:



jpg  Headlamp 1.jpg (85.14 KB)
225215_627ed47d8e335.jpg 475X478 px

jpg  Headlamp 2.JPG (1,439.88 KB)
225215_627ed48ea8dac.jpg 2107X1959 px

Posted on: 5/13 16:58
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Re: 1937 120 Parts Wanted
#3
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bob J
Found all the missing pieces. Been a great scavenger hunt across North America.

Posted on: 5/8 7:45
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Re: super 8 almost stuck
#4
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bob J
You may be able to use the bore scope up the valve stem when you take off the side valve cover plates. Not much to see in the cylinder anyway as you said as the valves are out beside the cylinders. Just removing the side covers gets you able to see the valve action without anything fancy as the lifters and valve stems are right there.
I suspect if it is this stiff you would want to tear it down and replace the rings at the very least and pull the valves and clean up there stems so they run smooth through the valve guides. Not like it is your only car and you need it to get to work. Relax and enjoy this part of the hobby and get to know you have a solid engine that will purr nicely with fewer mysteries.

Posted on: 5/6 10:57
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Re: Unknown Packard Photo
#5
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bob J
Fantastic everyone. I had not thought of the Star, I had helped restore a Durant back in the 80's so it should have been on my radar too. I think you have nailed it. I will let the family know. Everyone's diligence is greatly appreciated.
Bob J.

Posted on: 4/26 17:11
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Unknown Packard Photo
#6
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bob J
My Mom of 96 is very interested in my Packard restoration and dug out a photo taken of my Great Uncle Frank Anderson's car which she believes was a Packard. I believe she is correct as I can see it having the proper shape to a 1925ish model, but I admit there is a lot fewer hood louvers than the images on our sites photos of these cars. The Hood however seems to have the proper shape at the rad and the car's silhouette looks right. Can anyone confirm it is
a Packard and if so, give me a definitive year/model for this car? The beautiful girl on the running board is Frank's (future?) wife Madge. I did get to meet her in the 80's living in the Gastown area of Vancouver. Great lady. Frank however passed before I was born.
Thanks gang!

Attach file:



jpg  1920 something Packard.jpg (222.45 KB)
225215_62669a2ad4ddf.jpg 1001X600 px

Posted on: 4/25 7:55
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Re: Wanted: 1953 Clipper Tinnerman U Nuts and Bolts
#7
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bob J
Check out McMaster-Carr. They carry a wide range of them.
Bob J.
https://www.mcmaster.com/speed-nuts/

Posted on: 3/12 20:41
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Re: 282 exhaust manifold
#8
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bob J
Yes, and when installing on the motor, leave the fasteners loose at the joint of the two castings, bring the flanges up to torque to the block or head, then tighten the joint cap screws. Gives you the best shot at a good air tight seal. Any opening at the head or block will simply blow out the gasket and sound like you have no muffler on the exhaust or cause such a vacuum leak on the intake that it will not idle right. I use a spray bottle of water on start-up, the exhaust will bubble at a leak and the intake and carb areas will dry instantly as air is sucked in showing the leak.

Posted on: 3/3 9:28
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Re: core plugs
#9
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bob J
So, I did google it. I think the difference is that a welch plug is the type used in the king pin cap. It is a dished shaped disc that drops into the bore, then you peen it with a hammer so that it flattens out and creates a tight interference fit. Whereas a frost/freeze/core plug has a flange with a radiused edge and a slight taper that starts into the hole freely and then needs to be driven in for a final seal. I think I just learned something, and at my age too!
My Dad was stationed overseas during WWII, while going through basic and awaiting deployment to Europe he made the most of the British lament "They are over paid, over sexed, and over here!"

Posted on: 3/3 9:22
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Re: core plugs
#10
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Bob J
I like Welch Plugs too! Never heard that one, everyone I know calls them frost plugs, my 1st acquaintance with them was in my '72 Duster when one rusted through and started leaking Prestone, replaced it but the rest of the car followed shortly after!
Oh, BTW, my Dad worked at a foundry and his job was to knock the caps off the castings that later becomes the plug's location. The sand that is inside is poured out to create the water jacket. It was a pretty hot and boring job so he and his co-workers used to challenge each other who could get them all off in as few of swings as possible. Likely a round of adult beverages was bought by the loser!

Posted on: 3/2 22:18
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