Ok - so like a dummy I used park in my almost level driveway - I never use park, always neutral and PB. Anyway, now the push button trans won’t shift out of park. There is no sound at all when Push D or R, but a “click” when I push “P”. First order of business is to get it out of park so I can roll it into the garage - how do I do that? Second, I followed the manual to troubleshoot the electrical; some seems fine, while I discovered that a previous owner did some strange stuff to the wiring. Any help on basic troubleshooting methodology would be appreciated.

Still has the 3 way switch

Thanks again. Unfortunately it is clear someone’s been through this before. All my leads are black. I checked continuity from the fuse to the wire - no continuity. Don’t have a clue why. The lights and TL were working before, so I’m really stumped. Looks like I’m in for some detective work. I’ll let you know when I uncover the mystery.

Ok - thanks. So the wire coming out of the 7.5 amp fuse is the same one the goes to the brake light switch? Any other intermediate stops along the way?

The feed to my stop light switch has no voltage, so my brake lights and TL system are not working. I checked the 30A fuse by the solenoid and it’s OK. Where is the 7.5A fuse located? If that checks to be OK, then what do I check?

Yup - it came back to life after it cooled. I’ll have to keep an eye on it. 😀

Checked the flapper valve on the exhaust manifold - it appears to be working properly. I replaced the electric fuel pump (it did have one, but it was dead) and no more vapor lock! But - and I wish I was making this up - on my test drive to put the vapor lock issue to bed, on my return home my drivers side rear electric window decided to stop working! Well, at least I can drive the car. Thanks again for the help. If I get stuck with the rear window on my ‘56 400 you’ll be hearing from me again…

Thanks so much for the info. I’ll try to see if I can determine if the valve is working, or even if it is there at all. Do you know if this valve typically gets stuck, and how to keep it free and working? Maybe Max Merritt sells them?

Wondering how many have experienced vapor lock problems with the four barrel Rochester carb. It seems that once the engine gets up to temp, the carb temp itself is up around 145 F. The intake manifold under the carb gets up to around 200 F. I understand there is a path in the manifold where exhaust gas is routed under the carb to help with cold starts, and that there is some kind of valve that is supposed to block this path once the engine is warm? Where is this valve? Does it get stuck? Has anyone had to use a phenolic carb spacer to get around this problem? If so, from where did you get it? Thanks in advance for the help.