Owen, thanks for the response and photo.

My '37 120 did not have a jack (bumper jack I assume) would someone please give me a photo of the correct jack for this car? thanks

Thanks for the response and suggestions as how best to install the hinge cover. I finally got mine on (Max Meritt) but am probably 10 feet closer to hell. I removed the hood to make the install and placed a 2X4 underneath to give me a solid support under the hinge. My problem was not wet paint (had been painted for 9 months) but too much paint. The epoxy primer plus the urethane was too thick, even though well oiled it would not clip on. After carefully removing much of the paint from the hinge with a razor blade I finally got it to click on. If there is a next time, which I hope there isn't, I will try sliding it into place rather than trying to clip it in place - if the hood is on the car you have no choice except to try and clip it on but off the car you can push it along a well oiled surface. Another learning is do not have the cover chrome plated. I had my original piece plated and ended up with a very brittle trim piece and one that could not be clipped into place because of the thick nickel/copper/chrome plating.

Could someone please tell me the correct method to install a hood hinge cover on a '37 120? Should the hood be removed and the hinge cover slipped on over the hinge or can the hinge cover be installed by fixing the lip under the hinge on one side and then pressing/rocking the cover and clicking the other lip into place? Does the closed end go on the end at the radiator?

Thanks

I have a Carter 6 volt rotary vane fuel pump mounted close to my tank on rear frame rail. Even though the tank has been pulled, cleaned, repaired and sealed I installed a 10 micron filter on inlet to the pump and a fuel pressure regulator (1-6 psi) on pump discharge to control fuel pressure at carb 3.5 - 4 psi. I removed the mechanical pump and sealed off opening with a plate. It works quite well - does not drain precious battery amperage trying to operate mechanical pump, I do not have to worry about fuel leaking past the diaphragm into crank case, the potential for vapor lock significantly reduced and probably saved a horsepower or two by removing the mechanical pump.

I used a 10 micron in-line filter to resolve my issue.

you mentioned that the car sat up for 12 years - did you drain and remove the fuel tank? my "37 had been sitting up for 15 years- I removed 3 pounds of rust before having the tank repaired and sealed. It does not take much rust to get into the seat of the needle valve and to result in a flooded carb - you mentioned fuel coming out of the bowl.
MY '34 Rolls 20/25 has an Auto Vac - if you choose to install one on your car make sure that the fuel supply line stays as far away as possible from the exhaust pipe as well as your gravity line down to the carb float bowl. Vapor lock can be a problem - heat combined with the suction pressure causes the fuel to vaporize in the supply line to the vacuum tank. Locating the Auto Vac on the firewall of a hot engine compartment seems to be a poor design to me - hope your hood is ventilated. Keep in mind that the addition of ethanol to fuel makes the EPA happier because the fuel burns hotter, ie exhaust pipes.

I have a set of 316 SS grills for my '37 120. Got them from Fred Dosser in Australia. He fabricated the 6 straight/flat ones and had the two front curved ones 3D printed SS. They were not cheap (I think I am the only owner that has 3D printed SS curved grills) but neither are the Al grills from Max Meritt, +$1200 plus another $1200-$1500 for chrome plating.
The pitting that occurs on the original pot metal grills is almost impossible to clean/decontaminate and fill prior to chrome plating and not show the dimples. If you try to fill the pits with copper (copper/nickel/chrome) the deep pits will likely blister.

Thanks for the response.
I have since determined that the original plating was nickel. I am having the two pieces re-plated with chrome (copper/nickel/chrome) - more durable. The cost ($450) is high but I have a lot of pitting which runs up the bill. Shallow pits can be decontaminated and the first copper coat will fill but the deep pits require more work - solder/weld fill the pot metal then file down. The copper will blister over time if you try to fill the deep pits.

Was the metal frame around the rear window in a convertible top of a '37 120 four door plated with nickel or chrome?