The engine in my 1937 120 is dated 11/6/45 - 373894 on the right rear crankcase. I do not know the model no. since the boss on the left front above the generator is blank - I understand that a blank boss is common when a new engine is replaced/installed by a dealership. The current carb.is a Stromberg EE-14 which I assume was on the original '37 engine. The head is HC-PMC 7*26-367635 and the distributor is an Auto-Lite IGT-4203 12A8. The placement of the crankcase vent tube tells me it is likely a std. 8 and not a Super 8. If is a std. 8 282 cubic inch engine, 21st. series what is the proper carb? a Carter WDO -512S? if so where might I find one?

Thanks

I had the same problem with right fender rub with new Diamondback Auburn Deluxe radials on my '37 120 sedan convertible. The driver side had enough clearance and did not rub. My problem was not from weak springs (springs were new) but from a slightly bent frame. I noticed the passenger side frame issue when installing the front bumper horns and had to slot the holes in the frame on the passenger side to get the horn through the fender. I installed two spring lifts (Auto zone) in the new passenger side spring and solved the problem. The lifts can be difficult two install.

I would circulate oil using a hand pump and add Marvel Mystery oil to fuel and crankcase - it is a good top end lubricant for valves.

Joe thanks for info. on Maradyne cooling fans. Since it is 4" deep I assume you had to install it as a pusher since there is only an inch clearance between the radiator and fan blade. How did you convert it from a puller to a pusher - turn blades around or reverse the wiring? Were you able to install the fan between the radiator and grille by accessing through the bottom or did you have to take the grille out?

wjames - Glad to hear that you solved your problem. Did you experience any of the typical signs of a blown head gasket - milky oil, white exhaust smoke, bubbles in radiator, loss of coolant, loss of engine power, etc.?

Joe Santana, thanks for recommending Maradyne, they look like a first class company for cooling fans, my problem - when I went to their site online and did a search they did not have model MP-166-K6.

Thanks for the response.

The car has been tuned - rebuilt carb, points/condenser/distributor cap/rotor, and timed. I agree that liquid water is the best heat transfer medium but it also causes corrosion, scaling and electrolysis of the metal surfaces and degradation of the cooling system. I have seen cracked cylinder heads, blocks where the buildup of deposits in passages created hot spots that resulted in delta temps that resulted in cracks. I understand that if you have additives in your cooling system and routinely flush your system to remove corrosion deposits, etc. you can minimize corrosion damage. Additives breakdown and systems are not always flushed - one does not know the care and attention that was given to old engines 60-70 years old. I am willing to run with a higher operating temp in my cooling system with Evans knowing that I am minimizing further corrosion and buildup of deposits. I have had success with Evans waterless coolants in my 58 vette, 78 vette, 63 RR Silver cloud, 60 cad and 63 cad.

I am using Evans waterless coolant and car tends to run hot when not moving, as expected, and would like to install a cooling fan on radiator - can anyone suggest a brand/product - it looks like a 16" will fit on radiator side (pusher), not enough room to install on the engine side (puller).

I installed the old King Pins (.866) dia. and new bushings and the wobble is gone. I had to clean-up one end of the old King Pin and ream an oversized bushing to fit. Took about .006 of the end of the pin with a carbide cutting tool- took 45 minutes, tough/hardened pin. Have not got a response from Max Meritt regarding their undersized king pins (.862).

Both sides have a wobble. One could clearly see it was in the pin in the steering knuckle and not the bushings. The spec for the pins is .866 inches in dia. The old pins that were removed to install the new pins have a dia. of .866 and have an interference fit. The new pins .862 have a lot of play in the steering knuckle. I have contacted Max Meritt about the issue. At this point I will use the old original pins, the only problem is that one of the pins is scored a couple thousands on one end so I will have that end machine down and then ream the new bushing to fit. I wonder if the source/supplier for the king pin kits
is not machining the pins to spec (.866) since both kits (Kanter/Max Merritt) had king pins that measure .862. Fortunately I have a son that has a machine shop.

Four years ago when I started restoration of my 37 120 1097 I replaced the front end - king pins, bushings, re-built shocks, new springs, etc. When I drove the car for the first time a week ago the steering had a lot of play. before going into the steering gear I jacked up front end and found no play in steering wheel and wheel. I did the 12 O'clock/6 O'clock check and found a noticable movement. Thinking that it was because I over reamed the new bushings I took the wheel off to find that the max movement was in the king pin in the steering support knuckle. I took the pins out and measured .862 not spec. .866. I ordered another king pin set (this one from Max Merritt/previously from Kanter). The king pin in the new set also measures .862 so I then measured the original king pin removed four years ago and it was .866. The .866 king pin is a very tight fit (interference). So it appears that I have a 4 thousands problem that is causing the wobble. So what should I do? neither supplier appears to have the correct dimensioned king pin.