While still on topic, how is the reflector held in position? There is no pin or tab to stop it from rotating. Friction , fear , or what? I see the lens has a recess in the edge that keeps it in place. I have never seen inside an original or repro. I got this pair loosely assembled but incomplete.

I am going to an O ring place to get an O ring and a back up ring and see if that works. I went down to Olson Gsk for a head gasket. Very interesting place. It would be very expensive to have only 2 gaskets custom made. I can get a length of O ring stock and cut it to length and glue the ends together. Retired , got time. Foam backer rod is another possibility. can be glued into an O ring.

Greetings all.
When I got my '31 826 , there was a bunch of boxes in the back. One box held a pair of loosely assembled driving lights. The PO had started on restoring them. All chrome and silver plating done, a couple of parts missing, but a good start. I was able to purchase a damaged shell with the bits I needed and swapped them over. So, I am in need of the seal for the lens.I contacted White Glove but he has not got back to me.The old ones were there but are in tatters. Also, the rubbers in the front of the crown are hard as a brick. Was going to make O rings out of vacuum hose. Thoughts?

The other problem is mounts. I have everything to clamp them to the bumper bar, but it looks funny. I would like to mount them to the tube between the frame rails. My thought was to use a pair of con rods for clamps, and cut off the beam and weld a piece of round bar to the stub of the beam. This would move the lamps back closer to the plane of the headlights. Any other options, thoughts?

Ok, I seem to have an 8 wire system. The extra wire is Red with a Black stripe. I contacted Truck-Ilte ,who owns Signalstat, and he sent me a workaround using 2 diodes between the front turn signals. The blue wire picks up its signal between the 2 diodes. This should give the grey cells a workout. I will contact Truck-Lite and ask about the extra wire. The turn signals work, but I would like to have the pilot lite as I am slightly hard of hearing.

On a different note, There is a '30 Standard 8 sedan here in BC just listed on Rod God . Nice looking. Google Rod God.

Be very careful when handling the generator. If it is the style with a bell shaped cover over the brushes, it can be broken easily, End bells are hard to come by. Having said that take a few minutes and examine the casting. They quite often have cracks that are visible. They must be repaired. I have had 2 cracked ones fail. The broken pieces are almost interchangeable.
I put a nut on the gen mtg stud to insure the brass bit doesn't move.

So, now that the old dear is running properly, I need to sort out the turn signals. She has a SignalStat 600 Sigaide 6 volt switch.The flasher unit is a 3 terminal Tungsol 535 6volt with no wire on the center term. There is a blue wire beside the flasher with no term on it's bared end. The exterior lights work as they should except the indicator lite on the end of the lever.Today when I was poking around, I took the flasher out of its holder and while moving it, the indicator lite flashed a couple of times. The flasher clip is attached to the side of the switch under the glove box. Switch seems to be grounded.
Now, I assume that this unit is aftermarket. Is it possible that this switch is neg ground and there is a diode in the indicator circuit preventing it working on a pos ground application?
Thanks in advance,Fred

Clearances were just too big, just plain worn out. But to be fair, a big source of pain was the coil. I wired a new one in in series with the old one. Started instantly and was more perky. While running, I disconnected the new one and idle dropped 50 to 100 revs and sounded flat. I removed old coil, connected a jumper to the unused acc terminal and connected that to new coil bat term. Connected old pts wire to new coil and Bob's your uncle. Probably has had both carb and coil problems for a while. Previous owner has passed so I can't ask him what he has done. I only rode in it once years ago and it went very well so I knew it should run again. Have been out a few times and it was fun.

I continued to have problems with throttle response . Bought a carb on line that was total piece of junk. Spray can over haul. Bowl had a crack and leaked . Seller said as is, where is. Bought one of Scotts carbs, beautiful. Problem solved.

The handbook says Whitmore's "0" for trans and diff. What should the modern lube be? Also what should go into the chassis lubricator?
Thanks from the left coast, Fred

The 2 thin washers go under the mounting tabs for the metal ignition wire loom. I flashed it up and runs fairly well.Took the Dowager out and she didn't embarrass herself.