I've always been able to take my used antifreeze to my local Advanced Auto Parts. They recycle all oils in one bin, and coolant in another. Might want to check those sort of places, too.

They're next on my list to try!

Looking for a front seat adjusting handle (30.927, 370377). Attached an image of the various vehicles this adjusting handle would've been found. I tried repairing mine, drilling a hole in the two pieces, adding a dowel for support, but it just snapped/bent immediately. Any help locating a replacement would be appreciated!

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Hey all! I just have a curiosity. For the fun of it, I bought a NOS Carter 25-98S needle and seat, really just to have one in case it could ever be useful. This is the needle/seat for the WDO 643SA. I have been using my Daytona float valve without issue of course, but I was just surprised by how different the two are.

So I'm curious, in anyone's experience, does the Daytona float valve really live up to the claims on the flyer that comes in the kit? I've scoured the forum for previous discussions on the topic... some have said they're superior, some prefer the traditional needle/seat combo. Anyone really notice a difference, or is sort of like "what oil do you use?!"

Hope everyone's staying cool!

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Hey gang, just wanted to button this one up and say thank you. Busy couple weeks at work and home and haven't been able to come back to it until tonight. In short, it just ran great. 40 lbs, right on the nose cruising, and 10-15 at hot idle, and silent (I couldn't actually hear it running). I have the check valve, but haven't installed it - seems like we're in a good place for now. Good getting that computer paper gasket in there, and getting all the sludge out of the pressure relief valve. So pleased. Thank you, all, for your help.

Now to start saving up to get the Ultra rebuilt...

Just an update here. Trying to get the pump to prime was an agony inducing thing. I did the gear oil prime recommended in other threads on the topic, took a couple tries. One of the lifters was pretty seriously against returning to service, but it came around.

So here are the gauges after about twenty minutes of driving, sitting in high at a stop sign. Still have yet to add the check valve, so I imagine that will help. It's basically unchanged. Ran great nonetheless. Back at it tomorrow.

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Hey all - quick question for those who have added the 10psi check valve. Can I also ask:

- What fittings did you use on the valve?
- Were you able to re-use your existing line, or did you do something different?
- Where did you add the valve (closer to the sender or filter housing)?

Thanks, all!

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Hey gang - for the rear horizontal shock, a company called A-1 Shock Absorber Company sells a reproduction of the original. They actually have a pretty enormous variety of options for shocks and springs. The only thing they don't deal with are the lever shocks. I have their rear stabilizer in my 2302 - actually a discernable difference in the side-to-sise sway. Highly recommend.

https://www.shocks2springs.com/p1397-rear-horizontal-stabilizer-shock-packard-41-46-47-48-49-418227.html

Thanks, guys! My 327 does indeed have hydraulic lifters. I had them all out when I did the head gasket and valve job a couple months ago. Two of the lifters came out and were replaced with NOS. I determined the bad lifters with a stethoscope. I've seen Ross's video on testing the hydraulic lifters. I'll need to recreate that jig! It definitely used to be much worse and (thankfully) not the primary concern for me at the moment. I'll probably do the valve guides at some point next summer, at which point I'll dig back into the lifters. Just need that excuse to take the head off again. Meanwhile, if I can eek out a little more oil pressure with some of these ideas, I'll call thay a win!

As a quick curiosity... cap came off no problem). Found some sludge build up, so I took the pressure relief valve cap off. I was surprised to find two stacked lock washers inside the cap between the spring and the seat inside the cap. Not seeing any lock washers in the cap in the diagram - guessing they're not supposed to be there.

Guessing I have the wrong spring, and the lock washers were added to sort of lengthen the spring to approximate the original? Or Should I try to locate another spring? Just seems odd...

Also for verification - is this about what the gasket should look like?

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