I agree with the sentiment of appreciation for the offer to the community. As a newbie and mechanical novice, and seeing a drop in people being custodians of old cars that are less inclined to hot rod or resto-mod, I have wondered what will happen with the next generation and the cars surviving. As I become more capable I hope to do my best to maintain and keep life in more of these. My kids have a general idea of my wishes should they need/want to sell my cars. Personally, I would rather them be given away to a good home than sold to sit and not be driven or appreciated.

Admittedly I haven't looked that much, but I do have an old glass type I've considered adding but wanted to get a better idea of the actual filters that were available. Anyone have a link or name/part number as a starting point to find a modern filter to go in it? (seems pretty close to my riding mower's at least in size.)

I have always wondered about the towing part on older vehicles. I've seen a bracket/tow hitch add-on for bumpers like my '39 and I've seen some pics or old movies showing towing but I don't know how often that was really done, or only really for certain vehicles, etc. Unfortunately some of the examples I've seen were around what not to do (i.e. 3 Stooges and the like). Curious to know if anyone has photo/video examples or any formal documentation on such a tow.

Not sure if this are the same style but this listing has some pictures you might reference how these were attached.

facebook.com/marketplace/item/6372012053 ... 3ca2118-e912-4eb4-8d18-dd4f1b235975

Part was me explaining how it works so not super critical unless you were curious. Assuming the inner workings weren't exposed, some simple air should be able to clean most dust out.

There aren't a ton of points to oil but each one just put some (micro) drops on the points circled in the pic, run it, add oil if needed but running should work things loose/clean without adding a bunch and the needle tip applicator should keep the amounts good. A few of the circles are to reference the other side or a point on the other side of the inner part of the clock. Be careful of the balance staff (referenced in the video) as it is fragile and if "broken" you won't find anyone to try and fix it. Interesting thing I discovered, the clock for the 1940 and 1939 are 99.99% identical with the only difference being the balance staff is a fraction of a mm thicker.

Working it out:photos.app.goo.gl/SpHj6k7GFfqBecpGA

Running consistently:photos.app.goo.gl/3A5Tr35mEGicignb6

Sorry these aren't the most comprehensive videos, these were just some quick shares for a friend.

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I've brought back to life a few clocks 39-40, one from a very rough car, following the simple tips a friend who is an expert clock repair/maintenance guy. In the majority of cases all that is needed is a little cleaning (simple dusting at best since the covers keep it mostly sealed), oiling (clock oil is cheap on Amazon) and patience. I bought a small 6 volt battery, wire/banana clips, did some oiling and let it run. My friend said it may take a week or so to work itself more free to run consistently, resetting, etc. When it seems to not reset, a little more oil at the points and setting it off again until it runs for a couple of weeks straight you should be good to put back in the car.

Main point being that the reason it isn't running is likely a simple fix. The only drawback I found to having it run again is that I tend to leave it unhooked to not run my batter down since technically it will draw power roughly every 3-5 minutes when it "rewinds/resets".

Saw this on FB for those interested (not mine).

Packard trunk

Not sure what year but saw this on ebay

ebay

I bought a cylinder that I tried to re-key and messed up so bought a replacement with key. If anyone has tips for getting the cylinder out (not off the lid) I wouldn't mind hearing it. I half tried and maybe I was being too cautious but abandoned it.