I clicked on the little buttons to say "Great; Congratulations". But, for me, the buttons don't work.

So: Great job! Congratulations!

Now I really want to see pictures of your car. Please post some, with or without the ribbons. Also - and this is a bit more demanding - if you can, please post a video of you driving down the road. There is nothing more inspiring than to see a well-sorted Packard in motion.

Thanks,

Phil

Would you have either a proper gas cap or a crank hole cover?

thanks,
Phil

Hi Bob,

I’m not a professional, but it would seem to me that a good way to go would be to use the same two studs you used to remove the engine and plan on re-torquing the nuts after the engine is installed. You can probably buy a pair flanges to go under the headnuts in place of the washers. If not, you could easily make some. Sin the engine head is in plae (along with manifolds, carburetor, etc.) the engine is now a lot heavier - and bigger - than it was when you removed it so it is going to require a lot more care in handling. I would definitely want a second person involved; one person operating the lift and one person guiding the engine into position.

Good luck with it. Please provide pictures of the installation process and final product.

Phil

Would you have either a proper gas cap or a crank hole cover?

thanks,
Phil

I have a 1928 Packard that showed the same problem. It turned out to be caused by bad gas that had started producing a varnish. I had to replace the fuel filters, drain the bad gas, and clean the gas tank.

Several different answers, here. The picture is not mine, although mine is identical. Note the locating hole for positioning the inner tank. However, I agree with DavidM; It shouldn’t make a bit of difference which way the flapper faces.

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  Vacuum tank.jpg (773.01 KB)

In this model vacuum tank there are eight equally spaced holes around the rim of the top. There is a ninth hole located in the rim of the top where the arrow in the picture is pointing. That mates up with a small post in the can, If there are more holes in the top, someone modified it. The large copper tube above the arrow is the vacuum supply tube. The small tube behind it is a vent tube. Its open end should not be near the exhaust pipe. The tube to the upper left is the fuel supply tube.

The tires on my Series 526 are at least twenty years old - so are the tubes. I suspect the weak points are the valve stems for the tubes. They have developed small cracks in the rubber, similar to those in the tires. Like you, I am worried about a blowout, and I am saving for new tires this fall.

I find that, in my car, 35 psi makes the steering heavy, especially at low speeds. At 40 psi, the steering is acceptable, and the ride is still not a bit harsh. I am looking forward to see how the ride and handling will be with new tires this fall.

I agree with 32model 901. It does look like galvanic corrosion. I don't think it is from a leak. I would guess it is a result of something that got on the aluminum some time ago. I would wash it off well and just keep an eye on it. Once you have cleaned the area, it probably will not occur again.

The manual for my 1928 526 suggests 40 psi. However, it has 600 x 20 tires. The 1931 manual for the 826 - 833 cars and the 840 - 845 cars says that tires should be kept at 40 psi also. I don't have access to a 1929 manual, but I guess the magic number is 40 psi.