humanpotatohybrid wrote:
Looks nice! Resist the temptation to "restore" anything... just repair, maintain, and enjoy.

Ross wrote:
If the governor switch is dirty, or the lockout switch, the relay will receive no signal telling the overdrive to operate. You can check the rest of the overdrive by patching a wire onto the relay at the same terminal you used to test it previously. Bring that wire inside the car and go for a drive. When you reach 25 or so ground that wire on some convenient screw or door handle and the car should go into OD when you let off the gas.

humanpotatohybrid wrote:
Post some pics of the paint problems.

su8overdrive wrote:
Pardon, but the Packard encyclopedic gentleman, HH56, invariably, is right. I meant the hood can open from either side, but yes, there is only one (1) prop.

Packard Don wrote:
Quote:

So, he had new wheel cylinders and flex lines installed when he bought the car five years ago, and then didn't drive it after that (which makes zero sense to me but so be it). Thoughts on that? I might have to rebuild the master cyl though. I see signs of weeping there.

Five years is a long time of disuse which is why I said to do it again. Too much at stake to not take the precaution! Brakes should be pressure-flushed annually and it is my guess that wasn’t done during the five years during which time the fluid could have started to deteriorate or even crystalize. Not the case with synthetic fluid but if using that, getting kits and a brake light switch that are compatible is important, not to mention a thorough flushing of the system using mineral spirits (I believe) to remove all traces of the old fluid.

su8overdrive wrote:
Should be a hood prop on each side to facilitate working on engine. Make sure to lock the opposite side from the one you're opening or catastrophe.

On paint, be gentle. Tear the labels from 100% cotton terry cloth bath towels since they're polyester and will scratch paint. If you have water spots or other stains, go easy with the absolute minimal amount of cleaner, light polish by hand. Be careful or you'll wind up exposing primer. If you can't remove the blemishes you mention, just wax and rewax, rub everything 'til it gleams. Having an original car is priceless. Anyone can repaint a car. Go easy on the chrome. Nothing coarser than quadruple 0000 steel wool or copper wool if you can find it, perhaps Ace. Then keep it thoroughly waxed. Don't be cowed by "restored" cars. Most are of them are nightmares and never have that solid factory feel.

Check head and manifold torque engine warm with accurate torque wrench. Do not overdo. You want the manifold secure but able to expand and contract. Don't forget the manifold heat control valve. It should be free, the weight all the way up snug when engine cold. Try to work some graphite powder mixed with kerosene into both ends. Anything else will only burn off.

Drive car. Don't worry. See you have a set of radials. Good move.

humanpotatohybrid wrote:
Post some pics of the paint problems.