The first thing you're going to do is remove the spark plugs and squirt Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders and let it soak a couple days.
Then, you are going to try and turn the engine over by hand. If the engine can be turned, before going any further, change the oil and filter.
Next, get a battery and hopefully the cranking system is operable. If it is, more Marvel oil in the cylinders and cranking without the plugs.
If the engine cannot be turned over, either by hand or with the starter, you're probably in over your head right now. If I were you, I would take some night courses in automotive maintenance and repair. Maybe a buddy who's a mechanic to help.
If,as you say, you have never worked on cars, you will have TOOL EXPENSE. You don't do engine work with a hammer and vice grips.
How are you at electrical diagnosis? By the way, if you get to the point of hooking up a battery, your car is a POSITIVE ground electrical system. I admire your jumping in to something new (mechanics), but many a Packard has been ruined by persons with good intentions, who abandon
their projects after creating a bigger mess than they started with. Of course, you could pay people to do the work, which could result in great expense. There are a lot of good people with good info here, to help you out.
I sincerely wish you good luck with your project. PB

Maybe check the upper outer pin and bushings on the left control (A) arm. Worn upper outer pins and bushing will surely cause the severe brake pulling you describe. PB

Choke heater pipe? If it's broken or clogged throttle screw may not come fully off high idle cam...had that once on my Patrician. PB

20W-50 will not hurt your engine. It will not mysteriously increase your oil pressure....your pressure relief valve isn't stuck/froze/rusted?

With the viscosity index enhancers, the 50 means the oil will perform/lubricate like a 50W oil does at operating temperature, but it will not

be thick 50W viscosity.

My preference is for Rotella 15W-40 and has been for 50 yrs. My 2010 Buick gets Rotella 10W-30. The only vehicle that doesn't get Rotella is my

2014 Silverado. That gets 5W-30....I don't like it, but, VVT etc. requires I use it. PB

So I need some input from my current (pre-order) and future customers here. Is everyone pretty happy with the look of the sample? I am getting a few things touched up just slightly (for example, slightly thinner letters to match the other bezels better) but besides that, does it seem OK? Keep in mind that I'm getting these CNC machined, not cast from an original, so they won't be concours 110% perfect to the micron. But that's why the cost is so much lower, and if we ever need more, I can just get another batch done with my CAD file and drawing, not shipping a mold somewhere.

Looks good...works for me. PB

Pete, you might wanna re-think this activity.

Diff fluid should be changed out at least every 100K miles. With our antiques, we're more concerned with condensation and sludge build up.
Best practice would be to flush diff housing with alcohol, not diesel or parts cleaner, because they leave a film on parts and the fresh diff lube doesn't bind to the parts as well. After flushing fill diff with straight 90w mineral hypoid gear lubricant or 85w-90 diff lube provided your differential doesn't have any bronze or brass shims or spacers in it. Most do not but very early units might. The extreme pressure additives break down the "yellow" metals. After 8 years, I would r&r the diff fluid. PB

Are you cranking using starter? What impulse are you getting your reading?

Cranking system should be up to par, i.e. fully charged "good battery", Good starter motor.

Take pressure reading on third impulse.

Screw in compression gauge is best, but, rubber tip, push in gauge works good enough. PB

Based on your pic, Jim, looks good. As long as the seal is not on the edge of the valve. Seal width looks good also. Years ago, from the factory, the valves would be ground to angle and seats were ground one degree more to keep the seal from consuming the entire valve face. Just that one degree of interference was enough. A 3 angle or better yet 5 angle valve job with back cut on top of valve really makes a difference in engine breathability.
A 3 angle seat job is satisfactory without doing a complete port and polish job. If you're working with a valve grinding machine, it should have ability for you to grind the tops of the valve stems. The grinding provides little grooves in the stem for oil retention which will help with wear, and hence, less frequent valve adjustments. Just dress them up, you should have enough tappet adjustment for proper setting. When you have the valve train re-assembled, and cyl. head still off, give the engine a "static" valve adjustment. Starting with #1 cyl at top dead center, adjust valves in firing order..1-5-3-6-2-4. That way, once cyl #1 is @ TDC you wont have to turn the engine by hand but a little bit to bring the next cyl. in firing order to TDC for adjustment. Remember "light drag" on feeler gauge AFTER lock nut is tightened. After engine is completely assembled, head torqued, warm up engine and check valve adjustments. re-adjust as necessary. After this valve adjusment is complete and engine is cooled down from initial warm up, TORQUE cyl head AGAIN. If all is well, take car for a drive..20 min. to half/hour, and retorque cyl head a 3rd time. PB

45 deg will work for the throat. Hopefully the sealing surface wont go all the way to the valve edge. Do you have carbide cutters or stones. You can re-dress one of the stones to 15 or 20 Deg for top cut. PB