Thank you for your thoughts.

The radiator becomes very hot, within just a few minutes of idling, and coolant is being pushed out of the overflow in a somewhat steady stream. I have not permitted the engine to reach a full boiling over, but I believe I am quite close.

I will use the IR heat gum today to check temperatures at the locations you suggest.

A follow up question:
Is there a written procedure, or can someone describe, how to access and remove the coolant heat distribution tube? The manual provides little insight, and I am wondering how much of the engine and other components need to be removed, eg does the radiator need to come out and/or do any of the body components require removal?

If the tube is beyond repair, does someone sell a replacement?

Also, I am assuming a compression test may tell me if I have a blown head gasket? There is no obvious steam or smoke coming from the exhaust …..I have blown a head gasket in a modern car and I am familiar with the sea of steam/white smoke that results from this.

Thanks for additional insights.

Jim

My 1941 120 is continuing to overheat somewhat quickly, in spite of having completed the following:
1) flushed the system, including removing the plug from the rear of the block.
2) the radiator was removed and completely rebuilt at a competent radiator shop. The shop did tell me the radiator was flowing poorly and had numerous leaks following their “shop cleaning”. Thus, I am confident the radiator needed this repair.
3) replaced thermostat with a 160 degree NAPA thermostat. I did confirm the new thermostat was opening at the correct temperature, before I installed it.
4) I did not replace the water pump, but the shaft seemed tight and there is no leaking or noise from the pump.
5) the engine starts easily and runs very smoothly. Thus, I am assuming the water pump is not the culprit.
6) coolant is clearly circulating as the radiator becomes very hot, after the thermostat opens on a cold start.
7) I did not remove any of the “freeze plugs”, during the engine flush.
The engine was overheating rapidly, prior to the above repairs, and I am not sure that any of the above has made a major difference.
I currently have the hood removed and have only let the engine idle in my garage, since completing the above repairs. I am assuming this is not the root of my issue.

I am at a loss as to what to try next?

I would appreciate any thoughts or experiences of others.

Thanks
Jim

This is a good idea.
Thank you.

I will do what you suggest, but I thought it was worth asking to determine, if someone had modern part numbers.

Thanks
The 1941 has a slight curve to the upper hose.
That hose has the following numbers:
6K12 EBP 80MH70. Made in USA. ZDS 0406

I do not know the hose manufacturer and I have been unable to ID the hose to find a source
for a replacement hose

Does anyone have a modern parts number listing for the upper and lower radiator hoses for a 1941 120 (model 1901)? Something that fits that is not the "universal" type of hose?

I remember for my 1951 250 convertible, one of the older club members (at the time), knew of radiator hose that could be cut in half and used for the upper for that motor (320 cubic inch eight).

I am also wondering if anyone has a paper air filter part number that would fit in the 1941's air filter housing?

Thank you,
Jim

Thank you for the advice
I appreciate this information.
Best
Jim

I would like to find a thermostat housing in good condition for a 1941 120.
I am not sure how many years are interchangeable?
Thanks
Jim

Thank you.
I am new to this, and removing the front clip seems a major undertaking? Or, am I wrong?

When you mention removing the front clip, I assume this means removing the two front fenders and all parts forward?

When I removed the radiator this weekend, I removed the fan and spread the hood support rods to gain enough room to lift the radiator out. I am not the fastest at these tasks, and it required close to 8 hours in total.

I am not looking forward to trying to install the fan with the radiator in place, but I do not believe I can install the radiator with the fan in place. If this is incorrect, I would appreciate knowing.

Given the amount of time and effort, I am thinking to simply replace the water pump while I have things apart.

The water pump is not leaking, so it may be overkill on my part. But, I have no real history of the car.

The engine starts and runs smooth, but it overheats quickly (within 10-15 minutes at idle), and the radiator definitely needed attention.

I have replaced the thermostat previously, and it is functioning.

Is there anything else I should check ?

Thanks again..

Jim

I was able to remove the hood and, eventually, the radiator.
I can explain, if anyone needs to do this.

I removed the radiator. It was far more difficult, then I would have expected.
I am wondering, if I missed an obvious easier way, as I am surprised Packard would have made it this difficult.

Thank you, Mike.
This is very helpful information.
I appreciate it.
Jim