Here's a short youtube link of the cars current status.

https://youtu.be/DhdhCTvfWpQ?si=yJqlpKnKcusz5W3D

Thank you for the information! It will all be useful..

Yesterday the car ventured many miles... The more it drives, the happier it seems to get which is amazing.

I took it to my dad's house and he was finally able to see it again in person, and drive it for the first time in over 40 years..... Such a cool experience!!!

Soon I will take on rebuilding the twin ultramatic due to the front seals regularly leaking. I have received the entire kit from Max Merrit, and it's on the shelf waiting for the right time (most likely while the car is being painted). Any info/tips/tricks on rebuiding this unit outside of the service manual? I know my grandfather was the guru when rebuilidng these units (and everything else Packard related) so I'm hoping some of that knowledge will be transferred thru me someway, somehow...... I will also troubleshoot and resolve the parking gear/pawl sticking issue while apart. I have a brand new valve body on the shelf as well that may find its way in there. Current status: in D> - when cold, it doens't like to shift out of first until completely warmed up. in

Posted on: 3/9 14:51

All lights are now operable! Even the dash lights work and dim.

Lots of corrosion cleaned up on the front parking lamp housings. Exposed all metal for proper grounding and applied dialectric grease to everything for maximum contact and protection.

I was still having an issue with the left rear brake light/signal and traced that down to the bulb contact not being rotated correctly which obviously won't let the proper filament do its thing.

Moving on to sealing up the Bendix power steering apparatus.

Still doing daily road tests!

On the hunt for a painter and interior shop to actually take this thing on up here in Norcal. Everyone seems scared of this beauty for some reason.....

Brake Lights/Indicators -

Still no resolution. All connections/contacts and bulbs are good but left side brake and signal are inop. I'll have to line check each wire to locate where the issue is. I notice when the right signal is on, the LEFT dash light flashes. Right dash light does not ever light up even though that does work on rear. Both front signal lights are inop.



Carb -

After more digging into the 4GC, no issues found internally. All items are working as they should be but there is still hesitation off idle. I will check all vacuum sources for integrity. If no issues, Edelbrock it is.



Gauges-

Replaced the temp and oil sensors. Now I can see real data! Next up is the fuel sending unit this week.

Speedometer is not working either. I removed the cable from gauge and trans. I believe there is a break in the line somewhere. Will deal with that at some point.

Needle pointer on steering column was broken for shift indicator. I'm trying to locate or fabricate a fix for that.



Thermostat Housing Gasket -

I replaced this with a new one. When I removed the housing, the old gasket dissentigrated. Maybe it was a bad batch of material? It had only been on the engine a coulple months since the rebuild. Seems to be fine now.



Power Steering Ram -

This is leaking now. I'll order the seal kit and fix this up as well. Not sure if it's Monroe or Bendix. Gotta look into it.



Speed Test -

Drove the car up to 80MPH and maintained speed. All is good, tracks great and straight line braking is dialed.

Carb Bog -

I had tried adjusting the timing prior to fixing the AP with no differences. It is much better after the AP fix, but still present. Adjusting the linkage seems to be tuning most of the hesitation out of that 700-1000 rpm range bog. I feel the car needs to be driven as much as possible, so that's what I'm doing. If I find something definitive, I'll let you all know. For now, it seems to be a carb tuning issue overall.


Parking Lock Sticking -

The parking pawl still sticks if I don't use the E-brake. When I serviced the internal trans shifter rod (re-tapping the screw etc), the pawl looked fine, but I could not see the gear condition. I think this will be an item to sort out when I pull the trans at some point to freshen it up.


Brake Lights Etc -

Now, on to the brake lights and turn signals. So far, headlights (and brights) and tail lights all work. I am only getting right rear brake light activation and right rear turn signal. Bulbs are all good, so there must be a wiring issue (or maybe indicator connection problem in the steering column?).
I'm guessing the brake light switch is fine since the TL is working correctly.
If this is anything like my 64 Impala, it had the same issue and was related to steering column wiring at signals.
The dash lights are inop as well. Might be the light switch (or bulbs), but I need to find the motivation to get into that thing soon.


Gauges -

Temp gauge and oil pressure gauge tested out fine but don't really read much different when operating. I will install new ones tomorrow. Fuel level doesn't read, so I ordered a new fuel sending unit as well which I'll put in this week.


TL -

Kanter hooked me up with a compensator control box cover since I didn't have one. Now that the system is working great, I want to have this buttoned up and weather proof. I will make connectors for ease of removing the cover if needed and ensure it is completely waterproof.


Shocks -

I installed new shocks on all 4 corners..... That was a two day fight to the death, but is done! I had to cut 3 of the 4 out. Then modify the rear shock eyelets to fit (after several trips to the auto parts store for wrong sizes etc).


Thermostat Housing -

This seems to leak around the bolt holes for some reason. The gasket was properly installed, and surfaces prepped. I will remove this and find out what the issue is. It does not leak enough to make a difference, but enough to make spots on the fresh paint in the area...


Overall, this car is really nice to daily drive! Once the paint and interior is done, I'm sure my dad will enjoy it!

Exactly what I was thinking, adjusting that linkage. That's the next test.

Setting the E-brake works.

It does not stick in park using that procedure.

Now I need to find (or make) a sealed cover for the compensator control box.

The rochester I rebuilt needs a little more help. The accelerator pump (AP) initally had the wrong size ball check valve. I replaced that with the correct one and now it works better but still has a slight bog issue from the 700-1000 rpm range. The AP fuel stream looks weak when observed, and was thoroughly cleaned out prior.
Air fuel screws have been optimized with a gauge, and by ear tune. No difference.
Jets are 48's. Have not changed those yet.

I may just upgrade to the Edelbrock to avoid the forever tuning nightmare.

I did install new points/rotor/cap/wires, no change after that.

Awesome info, thank you!

I am testing the E-brake procedure to verify as well.

I'll keep updating on this.

Several test drives complete now!

All fluids changed after many heat cycles, and looked ideal!

Main annoying issue now is it sticking in park. I have to roll the car a little and it releases. My dad related the pawl needed replacement back then due to this issue. Not sure how in depth that replacement is, if anyone here may know?
I searched endlessly on the site and found a few topics/service bulletins, and I have already done most fixes listed.

For now:

- Torsion leveling now functions properly due to help from this site.
- Engine has massive power!
- Transmission shifts great up and down.
- Brakes are great!
- Cooling system is functioning great.
- Soon, on to paint/interior