Karl wrote:
I had no choice to install this design instead of the oil drain plug. It's the optimal, lowest point for a dipstick. Furthermore, the components used were ideal without any rework. Regarding the "petrol tap opening"... my now notoriously poor English forces me to translate everything with the Google Translator... and there, "petrol tap opening" is translated as "petrol tap opening"... which in my language means "fuel tap." So, I don't know what "petrol tap opening" means. I only know petcocks as the eight brass taps on my engine's cylinder head.

Soldering the components with silver solder serves my goal of ensuring a "bullet-proof" connection between all parts and avoiding visually large transitions during the nickel plating process after this part is finished on my lathe.

It is certainly sufficient to use the well-known, good, oil-resistant thread sealants. And the nickel plating is simply a matter of aesthetics for me. By the way: After attaching the lower cover plates between the engine and the frame, only a piece of the standpipe and the cap are visible.

Karl

Karl wrote:
Hello...
Here's the photo you requested. Since the assembly is mounted directly on the oil drain plug, the slight elevation created by the adapter nut ensures that no significant residual oil remains in the oil pan. The plate mounted centrally below the oil pump should be removed after a certain period of time anyway, so that the accumulated residue can drain away.

Not...
The entire assembly consists of simple components that are available at any well-stocked plumbing store. The components are quite easy to identify in the photo. I connect the components permanently and securely by coating the threads and contact surfaces with silver solder and then screwing them together while heating. I cut a short thread into the dipstick. I drill/cut a thread of the same size into the cap and screw the dipstick in. I then solder it with silver solder. The 3-4 mm thick cap of the cap is sufficient to securely and tightly hold the dipstick in place. The slot I milled into the lid, as described above, accommodates the toggle, which I also secured with silver solder at a depth of approximately 2 mm. I don't think this construction requires a more detailed description or sizing.

I've included some links here that show where you can find these parts. The better fittings may not be in stock at HD in the US, but I´m sure they are available at well-stocked plumbing stores.

homedepot.com/s/brass%20plumbing%20fittings

google.com/search?sca_esv=55be52598c2605ca&q=messing+vernickelt+t+st%C3%BCck+sanit%C3%A4r+fittings+vernickelt&uds=AOm0WdE2fekQnsyfYEw8JPYozOKzRRbFMNp8JeIQTZ9B9srRc5UQIl0glr3ZXqspMLnat4Eda48dvAtKw1BGSoVEKaajGnvpOXE7j2uQvtz0b2OXML9pU1f8D_siuC6n1tcfoDAZMptC9D8-egJGc06D3bBaiMKeZSw0nld5ygtSTpd-0dpRQD5v1ozSEiE9hzR5jYFV8gmtDR2tzMi3-roJ7OTdz-Idd451uzh3IlPJ2AB7PlgsJB0&udm=2&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjM54TB2ruNAxVqKFkFHX06JL0QxKsJegUIkwEQAQ&ictx=0&biw=1536&bih=712&dpr=1.25

amazon.com/-/de/s?k=brass+nickel+plumbing+fittings+3%2F4&page=2&xpid=ia3BTStOjzOd2&__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=37MG722S0QGZB&qid=1748077105&sprefix=brass+nickel+plumbing+fittings+3%2F4+%2Caps%2C175&ref=sr_pg_2

Karl

Pgh Ultramatic wrote:
Right, you need to (figuratively or literally) cut the ground (positive) cable in two then connect one end to each screw terminal on the switch. Obviously terminated properly etc.

Note if the switch has polarity markings. If so, connect the positive terminal of the switch to the positive battery terminal side and the negative terminal to the block side. The reason it might is because the pitting on the switch contacts over time will happen in a predictable way based on installation polarity. Sometimes switches are designed where they will last longer if connected with a given polarity so it will be marked. If it's not marked don't worry about it.

The switch polarity is something that the car won't notice but the switch will, so to speak.

Pgh Ultramatic wrote:
Quote:

Packtriots wrote:
Quote:

D_F_S wrote:
Quote:

Packtriots wrote:
TXGoat - I don't quite understand what a body feed wire is, but would love to learn more. I plan to run a cable from the ground post to the switch and another from the switch to the positive terminal.

You are receiving good advice on this question, but I would find a local expert to install your switch. There is no room for error with high current circuits. Even though you did not mean it, you described a short circuit.

Can you please explain why this is a short circuit? I'm not an expert, but I've watched several videos from guys that do a lot of repair work and they all wire the shutoff switch in this manner. Remember, I'm working with a 6v positive ground. Thank you!

He interpreted it to be the positive terminal of the battery when you (hopefully!) meant it to be the positive terminal of the starter. Though that in itself would be the wrong terminology if your car is positive ground (I don't remember but as I recall they are all positive ground except 56).

I would vote for the ground cable but once you go to install it, it may be apparent that it would be a lot easier and/or use less cable to do it one way or the other. If switching the starter cable saves effort and cable, just do that instead. The real concern is the overall quality of the installation as well as the other things mentioned in this paragraph. The switching of positive or negative is only one non-critical consideration.

Karl wrote:
A few days ago I came across this discussion on the subject of oil dipstick. I also wanted to be able to measure the oil level in my 1924 Sport 136 and came up with this solution. I found all the components for this in a hardware store in the plumbing department. They are made of brass and here in Germany they are all sold in inches. I think I even found the connection to the oil pan with a suitable thread. Or I made it fit on my lathe... I soldered the parts to the screwed connections with silver solder and then screwed them together while soldering heat. At the end of the horizontal pipe there is now a matching plug which serves now as a drain plug. The hat was a matching cap into which I milled a slot and soldered in a suitably manufactured 3mm brass plate to help with turning. I then polished everything and had it nickel-plated.

Karl

D_F_S wrote:
Quote:

Packtriots wrote:
TXGoat - I don't quite understand what a body feed wire is, but would love to learn more. I plan to run a cable from the ground post to the switch and another from the switch to the positive terminal.

You are receiving good advice on this question, but I would find a local expert to install your switch. There is no room for error with high current circuits. Even though you did not mean it, you described a short circuit.

Packard Newbie wrote:
And that would kind of defeat the whole purpose of having a 'kill' switch, wouldn't it?? In my limited DC knowledge, I cannot see any any other practical solution other than interupting the 'hot' side of the circuit. Chris.

su8overdrive wrote:
Packriots, forgive my not including more specs. You're right about different readings depending on 6/12/36-volt application, of course:

"Switch Type
Master Disconnect Switch

Material
Copper
Mounting Type
Flange Mount

Specification Met
UL
About this item

Two positions, Off-On
For 6-36V DC systems
Will disconnect the battery circuit only
Electrical ratings UL listed 375M, 250A at 6V, 125A at 12V intermittent; 40A at 6V, 20A at 12V continuous
Electrical ratings on UL labels are conservative"

Again, your starter motors do not draw more amps than the gear-reduction behemoth on my nine-mained 356-ci engine, and i've friends with such engines also long using the above Cole Hersee which well served and serves my '40 and '47 Packards since the late 1970s. No qualms, no caveats, no interference.

Saw one for $37 or so via Amazon, but i detest them, my girl and i only shopping Amazon as last ditch resort, esp. given their stunt of unwittingly enrolling millions of users in Amazon Prime, resulting in the national class action suit against Amazon a year and a half ago. Chrysler and Packard were above board concerns.

Nice to know your cars' history, or "provenance," as the auction houses say. Lovely cars. You've a full house by any measure.